i have a 92 z28 i bought from a dealer 2 months ago, and on the rear bumber it has a 5.7 tuned port injection emblem on it. Over the weekend , i was doing some research on it and i looked at the rpo codes and vin and they are showing the car as having a 305 (lb9) instead of the 350. My question is where are the casting #'s on the engine block located so i can find out what the hell it has in it????? BTW the car is fully loaded.......power everything leather seats with elec. adjustment t-tops.....the whole nine yards....just doesnt make sense to get the extras but not the 5.7

 

The actual casting number is on the rear driver side of the block. It will only tell you what block it is. Since the 305 and 350 have different bores, the casting number will at least tell you what bore is in the block. The production number is stamped in the block on the little lip in front of the passenger head. If the block has been decked then the number will be gone. Even cleaning the dirt off won't usually show the number. It's not stamped very deep. If you know your engines, you can tell a 305 from a 350 just by the harmonic balencer.

------------------
Stephen's racing page

87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car and knocking on the SuperPro ET class
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
LS6 Big Block buildup now in progress

Best results before the engine blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857
Best corrected ET: 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87
Best corrected MPH: 126.10
Best 60 foot: 1.662

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!

Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

 

92,

First, does the RPO label have the same VIN as the plate on the dash insert?

Second, the 305 and 350 will have the same mold ID number cast on the side of the block (327) but a different set of numbers on the rear ledge of the block.

Third, what is the eighth digit in the VIN? An 'F' would be a 305 - LB9, and '8' would be the 350 - L98.

Fourth, there is no time limitation for fraud. If the dealer represented the car as a 350, and you bought it in good faith on his word, you should have some recourse. Either the dealer should refund your payments or allow a cash adjustment for the difference in value.

Fifth, if the dealer is not willing to offer some recourse, contact your local BBB or chamber of commerce. They can make a couple of calls and have him taken out, or at least apply some pressure so he'll be more inclined to do the right thing.

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

Just to add, there is a statute of limitation on fraud, dependent on state and fraud subject. However it is usually from the time the fraud is discovered (tolled). You also have recourse treating it as a contractual dispute. Also if the dealer is unwilling to work with you, call your state Att. General's office. They whisper and carry a much bigger stick. And if he really is a di**head. Go after his lisc. file an off. report w/ the BBB and then if you really don't like him and the AG hasn't tied your hands in this matter, sue him.

 

RD,

Thanks for the clarification. Since the discovery recent, the limitation shouldn't apply. Sorry for any implication otherwise.

(I'll bet the dealer screams about the three-day return - until his phone rings.)

Good point about the SAG, but it might not take that to get him "honest". But just in case...

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

thanx for the info........checked it out and it is a 305 lb9 vin f,pisses me off though!!!! but im going down to my local gm dealership tomorrow afternoon and have them check it just to make sure before i get down and dirty with the dealer and anyone else involved...

 

Umm, Ok, a couple of things. Get the casting number first. As you may have noticed, a few of us are actually unstable enough to yank out perfectly good engines in our quest for fun (or whatever- anyone for skydiving? ). It may actually have been swapped and the previous owner added the tags. If you are really good friends with anyone in an insurance agency, (or are a good bullshi**er - try the RMV), you could maybe get the previous owner's info and contact him/her. To play My Advocate, the dealer can say that the auto was represented to him as such, and you may have limited recourse. However that is rarely the case. And to add my two bits to the three day rumor. It is untrue in regard to automobiles. (The "3-Day Cooling Off" period is a myth. Consumers do not have the right to return the car within three days of purchase. - Excerpt from the Oregon AG office in a legal trade publication) Some states are (or have very recently) attempting to adopted this, however, do not rely on this as a fail-safe on any automobile purchase. A good lawyer can supersede that 'rule' with the lemon law of his/her state. Again, not to get your hopes down, but just playing Devil's Advocate.

Vader- yes, in most instances the dealer will amicably try to settle a dispute, they hate dealing with any govt. body, I wonder why that is?? Also I found that in most instances fraud has a 3 year statute of limitation, beginning with the date of discovery of the fraud. What was interesting to note however (and I'll admit surprising) was the large percentage of cases that were dismissd due to lack of evidence of intentional defraudment (this was in civil cases I ran across). Very disconcerting. I'm gonna be paranoid as all hell next time I buy a car from a dealer!!

 

A 92 305 TPI automatic will have drum brakes, a 2.73 posi rear end, and a single catalytic converter. A 92 350 TPI automatic will have disc brakes, a 3.23 posi rear end, and dual catalytic converters. Real easy to tell that way.

------------------
1991 Camaro Z28
5.7L 5-Speed (originally 305)
13.25 @ 107.18 MPH
Southern California
Member: SoCal 3rd Gen F-Bodies
Webmaster: SoCal F-Bodies
-=ICON Motorsports=-