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Car Starts sometimes but doesnt others

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Old Aug 15, 2003 | 01:21 PM
  #1  
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From: GA
Car Starts sometimes but doesnt others

Its like the car is flooding itself out, or its not getting any fire.
I can let the car sit and go out there and it will crank up fine.

We did a tpi to carb switch on it. 88 Iroc Z28 305.

Holley 650 4bl on it. any info would be great the car has a new distributer,cap,coil,button,wires,plugs. the electrics are all new. it just started doing this.


Any help would be appreciated.
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Old Aug 15, 2003 | 04:22 PM
  #2  
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From: Northwestern Pennsylvania
Car: 1985 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 355 with stuffs.
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.10 Posi
when the engine does not start, does it crank over or does it just sit there and do nothing at all?
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Old Aug 15, 2003 | 04:40 PM
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From: Michigan
Car: 1988 iroc-z baby! :o)
Engine: 305
Transmission: soon 2 be replaced.
i dont know much but thats the problem i was havin..and i couldnt figure out what was wrong with it.........it ended up being the ignition module, anyways.....hope that helps
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Old Aug 15, 2003 | 04:42 PM
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ede's Avatar
ede
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why don't you check and see if it is getting fire or fuel. has it ever actually startedand ran fine after your carb swap?
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Old Aug 15, 2003 | 05:45 PM
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From: GA
YEs it has, would the ignition module be in the distributer?

The car turns over it just wont fire off. The car has been running and did this occasionally so i figured it was flooding out, but then i i bought a cap coil all that stuff and put it on there. would crank up everytime but now its doing the same thing again ill cut it off and sometimes it will start and sometimes it wont. When the car wont start it sounded like it wasnt even trying to fire off. But its not constant so its hard to remake the problem. Could the timing belt be shot?
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Old Aug 15, 2003 | 07:04 PM
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From: Michigan
Car: 1988 iroc-z baby! :o)
Engine: 305
Transmission: soon 2 be replaced.
yeah its in the distributer
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Old Aug 15, 2003 | 10:13 PM
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From: GA
ANy Ideas yall?
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Old Aug 15, 2003 | 10:32 PM
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From: B'ville, WV
Car: 2002 Formula Firebird
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4l60e
Axle/Gears: 3.23
When it doesn't start what does it do? You arent giving us enough information...
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Old Aug 15, 2003 | 11:51 PM
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From: GA
The engine just turns over. like the engine is spinning but the pistons arent firing like the car isnt getting a spark
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Old Aug 16, 2003 | 01:20 PM
  #10  
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From: GA
Any ideas yall I dont know how to tell ya what else its doing
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Old Aug 16, 2003 | 04:49 PM
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From: Michigan
Car: 1988 iroc-z baby! :o)
Engine: 305
Transmission: soon 2 be replaced.
i think u should replace the ignition module.....it takes like 20 minutes....and if i can do it.....bein a girl and all.....im sure u can do it, but yeah it would help if u gave more info on what the car is doin.....i've had 2 camaros....and both of them had the problem u've described....and it was the ignition module.......if u pull it out, and it has nasty stuff all over it......then more then likely thats ur problem
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Old Aug 16, 2003 | 10:55 PM
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From: GA
LOL DUDE Im a dUDe lol


Well im trying to remember if i replaced it or not, but im not sure.


I dont know any way to explain it any better.


Sometimes the car will crank up with no problems, other times when i walk out there and turn the car over the engine will turn over but not start it will just turn over like its not getting any spark . I can leave the car shut off for 20 - 30 mins go out there and it crank right up and it will drive. My friend suggested compression.
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Old Aug 16, 2003 | 10:58 PM
  #13  
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From: Welland, Ontario, Canada
Car: 85 Monte Carlo SS...
Engine: T.P.I L98.
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3:73 Posi
Girl or not, Leahs88irocz may very well be right. ( Good call girl!!! ) I would check all your conections within the ignition system. If all looks good, it is very likely it is the ignition module in the dizzy.
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Old Aug 17, 2003 | 08:04 AM
  #14  
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ede
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From: Jackson County
it still sound to me like you'ver not bothered to trouble shoot or check anything, have you? is it getting spark or are you just guessing? also pistons don't fire. if you are in fact not getting fire check the connections and wires and if you have no spark and everything checks out ok test the module.
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Old Aug 17, 2003 | 12:46 PM
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From: GA
I dont have the sh** to test with. Never mind yall its not big deal
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Old Aug 17, 2003 | 07:48 PM
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From: Michigan
Car: 1988 iroc-z baby! :o)
Engine: 305
Transmission: soon 2 be replaced.
i think just about any auto parts store can test the ignition module for u.....but im not 100% positive
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Old Aug 17, 2003 | 09:17 PM
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From: GA
TY!
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Old Aug 18, 2003 | 07:51 AM
  #18  
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From: GA
LOL I walk out there and get in it for work, started right up and drove to work. lol this is so weird its not even funny.


BTW, my friend suggested compression, could that have anything to do with it?
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Old Aug 18, 2003 | 01:44 PM
  #19  
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From: Michigan
Car: 1988 iroc-z baby! :o)
Engine: 305
Transmission: soon 2 be replaced.
lol.....my car was doin that for awhile......i'd get in it to go to work and it'd start....after working 8 hours.....i'd get in it to come home and it'd start......but then when i wanted to go out later that night....it wouldnt start, it'd just turn over.....i know how it is to have problems with ur car....i cant figure out whats wrong with mine at the moment.....which is drivin me crazy, and everytime my dad gets in it to drive it around and see what its doin......it doesnt do it.....i dunno....well i hope ya find out whats wrong with ur car.......have a good one
-Leah :lala:
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Old Aug 18, 2003 | 08:48 PM
  #20  
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From: South Jersey
Car: '16 Camaro SS, '88 IROC
Engine: 6.2 Gen V
Transmission: 6 spd TR6060
To narrow down the problem, the next time it does not start, do some quick testing. Pull one of the plug wires off, like #1 since its easy to get to. Either hold the wire close to the block or put an old sparkplug in the wire and hold it to the block, have someone crank the engine. Keep your hands clear. You can get quite a shock. If you see a spark and the car does not start, the problem is in the fuel delivery. If you do not see a spark, the problem is in the ignition. A likely suspect is the pickup coil, located inside the distributor. This coil can deteriate and cause intermittent problems before it fails totally. A pain to replace, requires removing the distributor.
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Old Aug 18, 2003 | 10:16 PM
  #21  
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From: GA
Well thats some good ideas to check into, i need to try the spark plug next times its doing it. for sure that way i will be able to say fuel or electrical.
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Old Aug 18, 2003 | 10:30 PM
  #22  
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From: La Porte, IN
Car: 1987 Monte Carlo SS
Engine: L98
Transmission: 200-4R
Axle/Gears: 7.625 10 bolt/3.73s
An intermitant start is more likely ignition as opposed to fuel. I had two crank, no start conditions and it turned out to be the ignition module. I had one crank, intermitant no start condition and it turned out to be the ignition pickup coil. I can vouch on my 89 remote coil distrib setup that when the ignition module is bad, the tach won't move upon cranking, never noticed when the pickup coil was bad so that may not help you narrow down any.
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Old Aug 19, 2003 | 08:24 AM
  #23  
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From: GA
Well, Im not sure, I thought i bought all new stuff for the electrical. I remember that part yall are talking about. ICM what does it look like, is it black long and have prongs on it, similar to a telephone?
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Old Aug 19, 2003 | 01:59 PM
  #24  
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From: Michigan
Car: 1988 iroc-z baby! :o)
Engine: 305
Transmission: soon 2 be replaced.
someone told me that its best to replace the coil and the module at the same time
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Old Aug 19, 2003 | 10:41 PM
  #25  
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From: Southwest Chicago 'burbs
before you go through the trouble of replacing the pickup coil, you can do a couple simple impedance tests to see if it's your problem. first you need to pull the cap and rotor, and then unplug the ignition module from the pickup coil. then take one lead on your meter and touch it to either wire going to the pickup coil. Touch the other lead to ground. If you get any resistance besides infinate, the coil is bad. Next, take the lead that is touching ground, and put it to the other wire. (you have one lead on the yellow wire, and one on the green wire now). If I remeber right, the meter should read between 500 ohms and 1500 ohms. If it is out of this range, it's bad.

Let us know how it turns out
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