Stripped a nut, help
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Stripped a nut, help
I was gonna put this in exhaust, but I'm sure the general section would be faster. ANYWAY, I was removing my exhaust manifolds... There are two nuts I can't get (the passenger's side ones closest to the firewall). I stripped the second one to the farthest back... I don't know what to do. It's really frustrating and I'm all beat up and bloody fighting with it. I'd also like tips on how to remove the very last stud if you've got em.
I'm going to search the forum
I'm going to search the forum
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by demonchild
get out the dremel and cut it. if it is hard to reach dremel makes an extension that is flexable.
get out the dremel and cut it. if it is hard to reach dremel makes an extension that is flexable.
but I don't have a dremel and I don't know anyone offhand who has one.
should I try some visegrips or will that make it worse?
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From: Detroit, Michigan
Car: 04 Xtreme Blazer
Engine: 4.3L V6
Transmission: 4L60E
when I pulled mine to install headers, I had some stripped bolts on the manifolds, visegrips work, but make sure you are using good ones, I.e., sharp teeth in the jaw
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From: Chasing Electrons
Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Using six-point sockets can make a world of difference. With the metric ones available can also use a slightly undersize socket for less slipping.
RBob.
RBob.
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From: "When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro." -RIPHST
Car: 1991 RS
Engine: 383TBI Fastburns and 2"TB
Transmission: T56 held up by Spohnstuff
Originally posted by RBob
Using six-point sockets can make a world of difference. With the metric ones available can also use a slightly undersize socket for less slipping.
RBob.
Using six-point sockets can make a world of difference. With the metric ones available can also use a slightly undersize socket for less slipping.
RBob.
Can also consider using some PB blaster if they are rusty. When nuts/studs get to that point, any little bit helps.
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Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,995
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by swerve-driver
Yes and Yes to RBob's inputs.
Can also consider using some PB blaster if they are rusty. When nuts/studs get to that point, any little bit helps.
Yes and Yes to RBob's inputs.
Can also consider using some PB blaster if they are rusty. When nuts/studs get to that point, any little bit helps.
and I don't have a 6 point that will fit in there
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by MrDude_1
3 options.
1.. attempt to turn it as is...
..........put a pair of vice grips on it
..........cut a slit and use a tool.
..........drill it out and use a easy out.
..........flatten two edges and put a wrench on it
..........weld a nut and turn
2. break whats bonding it to itself
..........soak in oil
..........heat with torch
..........smack it with a hammer or impact.
3. cut it out.
..........drill a hole oversize until its nothing but the threads.. then run a tap thru it.
.......... cut the head off and slide it out the other way.
.......... cut out around it
3 options.
1.. attempt to turn it as is...
..........put a pair of vice grips on it
..........cut a slit and use a tool.
..........drill it out and use a easy out.
..........flatten two edges and put a wrench on it
..........weld a nut and turn
2. break whats bonding it to itself
..........soak in oil
..........heat with torch
..........smack it with a hammer or impact.
3. cut it out.
..........drill a hole oversize until its nothing but the threads.. then run a tap thru it.
.......... cut the head off and slide it out the other way.
.......... cut out around it
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ighlight=torch
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
I got the rearmost bolt out today
I had to cut the stud down with nothing but a hacksaw blade (no handle or anything, just the blade!)
Then i put a shallow socket over it and it broke free and turned.
The other one (the to the right of it) I ended up rounding off EVEN MORE with a pair of vise grips.
it's a complete circle now; No corners at all.
I started to drill at it from underneath it, perpendicular to the stud.
It got dark so I came inside.
Anyway, I started it up with one header on, and one manifold on.
I noticed the header got warm after maybe 5 seconds of runtime...
considerably warmer than the manifold.
This should be fun
I had to cut the stud down with nothing but a hacksaw blade (no handle or anything, just the blade!)
Then i put a shallow socket over it and it broke free and turned.
The other one (the to the right of it) I ended up rounding off EVEN MORE with a pair of vise grips.
it's a complete circle now; No corners at all.
I started to drill at it from underneath it, perpendicular to the stud.
It got dark so I came inside.
Anyway, I started it up with one header on, and one manifold on.
I noticed the header got warm after maybe 5 seconds of runtime...
considerably warmer than the manifold.
This should be fun
If you can reach it, try using a center punch around the rounded nut/head, in reverse rotation. Sometimes the the bolt/nuts rust solid to the manifold. A big cold chisel will also work to break it free. Run another bolt in the manifold finger tight, just to hold it up, while striking with a hammer. If the head breaks off, then you can try visegrips to get the rest out. Good luck.
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From: New Palestine, IN (Just East of Indy)
Car: '85 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: WC T5, 3.23 posi
An air gun and cutoff wheel work well, I had to do that to one of my manifold bolts. It's my favorite tool for removing stubborn fasteners...
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,995
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
I got it by drilling the nut in a few places, and then using visegrips to rip that f**ker off. I'll take pics to show you just how rounded it was maybe
Someone isn't paying attention.
Vise-Grips just don't work very well for actually gripping anything. They're great as welding clamps and general pliers, but the jaws are far too soft to hold anything for turning.
If you have room for Peterson Vise-Grips, you have room for ChanNelLock 410G pliers. They will turn anything a Vise-Grip will turn, and far more. The jaws are as hard as a wild boar's ****, and will automatically tighten on the item in them by leverage design (NOT like those P.O.S. RoboGrip pliers!).
"Regular" ChanNelLock pliers aren't the same. They must be 410 (or their larger version, 414). Knipex is a German company that makes a similar design in some smaller varieties, and they're almost as good.
Vise-Grips just don't work very well for actually gripping anything. They're great as welding clamps and general pliers, but the jaws are far too soft to hold anything for turning.
If you have room for Peterson Vise-Grips, you have room for ChanNelLock 410G pliers. They will turn anything a Vise-Grip will turn, and far more. The jaws are as hard as a wild boar's ****, and will automatically tighten on the item in them by leverage design (NOT like those P.O.S. RoboGrip pliers!).
"Regular" ChanNelLock pliers aren't the same. They must be 410 (or their larger version, 414). Knipex is a German company that makes a similar design in some smaller varieties, and they're almost as good.
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3.8TransAM
NW Indiana and South Chicago Suburb
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Sep 27, 2015 08:37 PM




everyone should have one. 



