I read an article in a magazine my friend had a while back about these. The article seemed to believe that you will gain quite a bit of power with them. The questions I am asking are in relation to a good set of normal roller rockers like comp cams pro magnum.

My first question refers to rpm. IIRC they said that you could rev higher without valve float on hydrolic rockers. Is this true? If so how much difference does it make.

My next question is about wear. I know alum rockers arent usually suggested for street use. All of the shaft mounts I have seen are alum. Do these have the same problems?

Over all I just want to know if these would be worthwhile on a high hp street motor.

Thanks

Ben

 

We had a set of Jesels installed in our 383 we had built becasue they cost alot-more $$$ is always better right? We're running a solid roller Comp Cam that's .672/.672 and so far we've never had the covers off to check/reset valves. Don't know if I'd install them on a daily driven cross country type car, but they helped this little 383 knock out 555hp and 505 ft./tq.

 

Hey IHI where the heck ya been? have you tubbed out your 3rd gen?

 

Ah man, I tell ya this year has been extremely busy with my business and racing...well okay more racing than business Been hitting every race I can and just got back from racing at the World Series in Cordova-excellent time, too bad I kept cutting my own throat with red eyes cause the car was running EXTREMELY well-always hit the number on the window and my lights were all .020-.002 all 3 days up until the red eyes Got the car all redone this past winter inside and out, get tons of compliments at every event I take it too, so it made all that time and money seem well spent, this winter want to make the go keep up with the show. Shootin for a 10 sec. daily driver-not a literally daily driver since I can't pull my trailer with it, but you know what I mean. My uncle built a 92 S-10 with the above noted 383 so I could race in Pro/Mod., Super Mod. but we've been fighting traction issues all season and little gremlins that keep plegging it, so racing 2 cars 2 classes has kept me beyond busy and with the summers heat is actually alot harder than it sounds-never thought I would say driving is hard, but it is under the circumstances.
How'd ya ever come up with your motor swap? and what'd ya end up turning for times with the new stuff? I've been mulling over what to build for the past month wether it be a crazy SBC or a BBC, but I think for what I want the BBC is gonna happen, now just need to decide 496, 502, or 540 and how extreme I want to get, only limit is it just has to be pump gas friendly and driveable.

 

Well, my friend is slowly building up parts for a twin turbo 383. The thing is that he plans to run it on the street as a daily driver. He is using all high end parts, but I really wondered if they would wear out on the street like normal alum rockers? He has already has the block, LT1 intake, stainless works twin turbo headers, and a good chunk of money toward the forged rotating assembly.

He is not really holding back on anything because of the price so that is not a concern, but just the streetability. I think he was looking at the crane cams ones. I think he said that they claim to be able to be run on the street, but I just wondered about durability since they are alum.

I also am considering getting a 400 to build up and possibly eventually supercharge. I would probably run my ported sportsman II's on it. I also kind of wondered if they would be worth while on this. Do you happen to know how much power they are supposed to be worth over normal full roller rockers?

Ben

 

Never read much about them, just heard that they're better than standard roller rockers. These Jesels units are very well built and I appear that they'd be up to a duribilty test if it's gonna be driven on the street, but until we get at least 2 full years on them I won't give a 100% positive rating about them, so far so good with no problems, we're the only ones running these Jesels out of our group so we're the gueina pigs again.

 

Huh. I was looking at their site and they have a few different styles of them. Which ones are you running?

Ben

 

I'm not sure the exact p/n, I do know they are 1.6 int./ 1.5 exh. mounted in aluminum Dart Pro 1 heads. Next time I'm over working on the truck I'll see if he remembers what they are. When the engine was built we just had a rough parts list of the name brand parts we wanted for internals and then they took that info and came up with the combination for us. What I do know:
Eagle 4130 crank/rods, JE forged pistons 12.5 compression
newer seasoned 1 peice seal block with splayed billet main caps
Aluminum Dart Pro 1 heads with Jesel rockers 1.6/1.5 ratio
Comp solid roller custom ground so we could still use the power brakes-duration and centerline unknown, lift .672/.672
Edelbrock Super Victor intake
Holley 750HP carb
MSD ignition 6AL w blaster 2 coil and 2 step 40* total timing
CSI electric water pump
Moroso 3/4" water restrictor
NGK plugs
Moroso 8.8 insulated spiral core wires
Moroso extra capacity oil pan 8qt.
Mobil 20-50W oil soon to be switched to synthetic
If I had persoanlly written the 5 digit check for this motor I'd be able to tell you what the guys that built it did over the past 10 years and anything about theri families AND all exact specs about the motor. I do know when we went to the dyno session before we took it home, they did keep the cam specs to themselves other than say the lift and what the valves needed to be set at. We also ordered the convertor through these guys, they took all the engine specs and cam spec and faxed it to TCI. Everything works great, just weighted totally wrong 1740 up front and 1120 in the rear so traction is our biggest concern now. Went from a 4800 chip in the trans brake down to a 3600 chip and still can't hook, although the 60's went from 1.50 to 1.45 with a 4000 pill so bigger was''nt better in that case.