that's about it . Will the motor turn before I reach correct lbs?

 

65 ft.lb. with oil on the trreads, check this chart out

Torque chart

 

Sometimes it'll turn. On the fresh rebuild it didn't but after a few thousand miles it would turn at 60lbs.

 

OIL !! I found the info in my Haynes finally, but I put locktite blue on the threads. Should I redo, before it sets up...and thanks for posting the info guys

 

I wouldn't worry about it, as long as the damper was a good snug fit and you have the screw tight it's not going to come loose, and loctite usually sets up in a matter of minutes, so it's too late for that.

 

Yeah I went with the locktite because I was unable to use the lock washer that came with the Summit harmonic bolt kit. With that washer there just wasn't enough threads to feel safe about it.

 

Some people scoff at me for this but I have done this too many times to mention. It works perfect. Listen CAREFULLY before commenting. I use an impact drive and give it 2 VERY VERY SHORT pops. BAP-BAP-BAP. Stop. BAP-BAP-BAP. Done. This gets it tighter than if you would do it by hand but not so tight as to exceed factory torque or strip anything. I would never trust doing it by hand unless you have somebody to stop the engine from turning. The key here is that you don't want the bolt coming out on the road .... but you DO want it to come out when you need to remove it. Trust me - you do NOT want that bolt coming out on the road. If it does then you will have serious problems on your hands. I always use anti-sieze on the threads because the last thing you EVER want is for a damper bolt to crack off in the crank. Always use a high quality damper bolt. I'm using a ARP one. It's worth the $20.

Tim

 

I'm using a Moroso after I stripped my stock one. It's much stronger