My SES light comes on 25 out of 26 starts..The Hotwire isn't burning off the crap on it all those times except for the one rare time..how bad is this? I don't have any driveability problems that I can detect, I don't think I have an performance problems..I do on the other hand rather poor economy..Am I heading down a dead end road here? Is all that is going to happen is I'll just continue to have poor economy? Thanks alot

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-Red '88 IROC 5 Speed 305 TPI w/3.08
-Dual Friction Centerforce Clutch
-Accel 300+ Racing Ignition
-Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
-Accel U-Grove Plugs
-Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
-Hypertech Chip
-Hypertech Airfoil
-Removed, Then Re-installed (out of fear) MAF Screens
-Gutted Air Box
-Best E/T 14.90, 60 ft. 2.17, 1/8th mile 9.61(bald tires, Code's 34,36)
-Best MPH 92.7(bald tires)

 

I'll bite...watcha talking about?

 

The wire in the MAF is supposed to heat up to a thousand degree's after the car turns off to burn off crap that builds up on it as you drive around. This is not happening with mine..how many times can this happen? Will it result in failure? Sorry, I was rather vague in my original post...

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-Red '88 IROC 5 Speed 305 TPI w/3.08
-Dual Friction Centerforce Clutch
-Accel 300+ Racing Ignition
-Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
-Accel U-Grove Plugs
-Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
-Hypertech Chip
-Hypertech Airfoil
-Removed, Then Re-installed (out of fear) MAF Screens
-Gutted Air Box
-Best E/T 14.90, 60 ft. 2.17, 1/8th mile 9.61(bald tires, Code's 34,36)
-Best MPH 92.7(bald tires)

 

Why don't you just get a new MAF relay instead of trying to figure out how much longer your already faulty one will last?

 

The relay doesn't malfunction..it clicks every time and sends voltage..it's long and complicated and gay..thanks for the tip though..heh

------------------
-Red '88 IROC 5 Speed 305 TPI w/3.08
-Dual Friction Centerforce Clutch
-Accel 300+ Racing Ignition
-Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
-Accel U-Grove Plugs
-Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
-Hypertech Chip
-Hypertech Airfoil
-Removed, Then Re-installed (out of fear) MAF Screens
-Gutted Air Box
-Best E/T 14.90, 60 ft. 2.17, 1/8th mile 9.61(bald tires, Code's 34,36)
-Best MPH 92.7(bald tires)

 

Hmmnn...since the MAF has direct input for fuel and timing curves, I'd pay attention to...

Fuel economy
Pinging
Poor performance
Hard starts
Rich or lean condition

None in any particular order...but all could indicate the MAF not reading correctly, due to contaminated element.

 

Does it get to the point of failure? That would seem to make sense if it is burning off less and less..say it burns off once every 25 starts for 1000 starts..is the element going to be just as functional if I ever fix the burn off problem?

------------------
-Red '88 IROC 5 Speed 305 TPI w/3.08
-Dual Friction Centerforce Clutch
-Accel 300+ Racing Ignition
-Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
-Accel U-Grove Plugs
-Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
-Hypertech Chip
-Hypertech Airfoil
-Removed, Then Re-installed (out of fear) MAF Screens
-Gutted Air Box
-Best E/T 14.90, 60 ft. 2.17, 1/8th mile 9.61(bald tires, Code's 34,36)
-Best MPH 92.7(bald tires)

 

Yarnboy are you getting code 36? This is the one I always get. I've had it on and off for like two years and it hasn't affected my driveability, but my gas mileage sucks. I would assume that I should get more than 12-14mpg with a 305 right? I'm going to probably try changing the relay soon since I'll want it to be working correctly for my new engine. Let me know what your mileage is around.

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Riccioli Performance Motorworks

--RPM Racing--

-Currently building first ever engine. 383 with Super Ram plenum and runners, Edelbrock lower intake, Bosch 24# injectors, either AFR or Trick Flow heads, MSD ignition.
-Will be installing Baer Brakes
-Will be installing full Spohn suspension in rear
-Art Carr 700R4 trans??

 

Yarn,

The debris buildup on the hot wire sensor can act as an insulator. Since the hot wire needs to be able to reject its heat to the surrounding air passing through the MAF, insulation will make the hot wire reject less heat, "fooling" the MAF into reporting lower intake air flow mass to the ECM. The ECM will think there is less air flowing, so less fuel will be delivered, and the resultant mixture should actually be lean.

This could cause lower power, possible overheating, detonation, backfiring under loads, and generally poor performance. Notably lower fuel economy is probably not likely, however.

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Later,
Vader
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"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

I am almost positive I get sh*tty gas milage..like 10-14mpg..but my trip-odometer is always stuck at 454..I've always thought it was a sign..heh..My original Idea was that it is the MAF pigtail..but I am scared to put the new connector on because I don't think my soldering skills are all that great and there was this big post on how you have to connect the wires together by soldering them and other stuff that was hard for me not to mess up..I have wire connectors..I want to just use them..but I don't want to do it wrong. Thanks alot guys

------------------
-Red '88 IROC 5 Speed 305 TPI w/3.08
-Dual Friction Centerforce Clutch
-Accel 300+ Racing Ignition
-Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
-Accel U-Grove Plugs
-Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
-Hypertech Chip
-Hypertech Airfoil
-Removed, Then Re-installed (out of fear) MAF Screens
-Gutted Air Box
-Best E/T 14.90, 60 ft. 2.17, 1/8th mile 9.61(bald tires, Code's 34,36)
-Best MPH 92.7(bald tires)