Well, I've been wondering when it was gonna happen but I didn't think it would be so soon or so dramatic. The rear end had been making a graoning noise for a while, I canged the fluid and posi additive and it quieted it for a while but it started again soon enough. Well, yesterday I was driving in the neighborhood and I heard a loud scraping followed by a snap and the car jerked to the right and tilted to the left rear. I got the car stopped and got out and the axle had come out of the housing with the wheel attached to it and the car was resting on the drum with the gear oil spilling all over the ground. I guess the gear came apart and the c-clip snapped or something. Anyway, what kind of replacement gear do ya'll recommend. I was thinking of a TPIS 3.73. The GM gear is a little too expensive and I have heard that it won't hold up real well against my motor. I'm gald I wasn't on the highway. Something to be thankful for. Thanks
bsa

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"If they do not run, Then they will die." - Stonewall Jackson

'87 IROC, 355 TPI,700R4, Trick Flow Heads, Comp Cam, Comp 1.6 Rockers, Lucas 23# injectors, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster 3'' exhaust, gutted cat,
Mallory coil, Mallory HyFire IV ignition box, Mallory Sidewinder 8mm wires, Autolite platinum plugs, K&N filters, Transgo Performance Shift Kit, Corvette Servo, 2,000 Torque Converter

 

Well from what I hear, the 10-bolt just isn't a good rear for high-power applications. I know you can get ford 9-inch rears with virtually all mounting brackets and everything for like $2000 or something? $2500 maybe? And those'll hold up to anything you can dish out. If you can find him, 84ZZ4 put one in his car, he can tell you more about it than I could.

 

Iroc,

Look in the Hot Rod magazine archives for an article that was done on how to build a bullet-proof Chevy 10-bolt earlier this year.

Or, use a standard Chevy 12 bolt and a "C-clip eliminator" kit.

BOR

 

You can definetly make the 10 bolt stronger for cheaper than a new Ford 9", but the 9" is practically undestructable.

I noticed your quote by Stonewall Jackson...While it's a cool quote, I'm not sure if you know this, but he was referring to killing the Native Americans because they would not leave their homelands during the Western expansion of America. Just some food for thought, since that quote represents an evil part of America's past.

------------------
The '82Z
Hugger Orange
383 4 bolt main
3000 lbs
Bad cornering
NOS Sportsman Fogged
10 bolt braker

Coming to a street near you in the spring...
The car's website

 

Not going to say much since this IS NOT a non-tech board, but yes I knew but I am not a heart bleeding liberal revisionist so...........oh well, its a good quote.

[This message has been edited by irocbsa (edited November 24, 2000).]

 

BTW, thanks for the help, I was really looking to just replace the gear and beef up the 10 bolt, do y'all have any gear suggestions.................
bsa

 

I put a stock 3.23 geared 10 bolt from an '88 with an Auburn Pro Carrier. I added the aluminum cover with the bearing braces and haven't had a problem yet. That is 2 years of hard street/strip driving with my 383. Hopefully I won't encounter any probs for a little while longer, I want to get a supercharger for this beast.

Sparks a flyin'

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1989 L98 IROCZ, Bored .030 over,400 Crank,Dart PRO 1 Heads 200cc intake,ZZ3/ZZ4 Cam,Crane 1.6 RR,Edelbrock 3860 Hiflo TPI Manifold, AS&M LTRs, Edelbrock 58MM TB, Ported Plenum, TCI Reverse Pat Man Valve Body, SVO 24# injectors,TCI Streetfight Stall Converter, 3.23 Gears on Auburn Pro Posi, Some Suspension Mods

 

Just out of curiosity irocbsa, what times and power are you running, my setup is practically identical to yours, except i have edelbrock runners and baseplate and a 6-speed. Thanks, oh BTW, i have the Australian 9-bolt, and i love the SOB. Launches,slicks,passes..it handles it all.

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"Ever notice how imports sound like weedwackers"

 

Formula, I'm running in the low to mid 13s. (13.3 is my best) It is not nearly as quick as it should be with the amount of motor the car has. The motor dynoed at around 340 horse at wheels. I think the slow times have a lot to do with the gear in the back (2.73) and the tranny. What have you run. BTW, did you notice much of a difference with those runners, I've been looking at some but not sure if the will be worth the steep price.
bsa

[This message has been edited by irocbsa (edited November 25, 2000).]

 

Hey irocbsa, one of my friends had the misfortune of losing a wheel complete with the drum and axle shaft on his Jeep CJ-5 at 50mph. The way he told me about it seemed really funny but considering he was with his wife and his two little ones in there, it could have turned ugly. The rear right corner of the Jeep just dropped and he saw the wheel pass him from the right side. Luckily, the jeep didn't flip even though it was loaded with luggage on the roof rack. He was able to safely pull off the road. Must have been one scary ride.

------------------
'88 IROC 305 TPI
Gutted airboxes
160 degree T-stat
Advanced base TPS voltage
Relocated IAT sensor
Momo steering wheel
Ram-air setup coming soon
Flowmaster muffler
Taylor SpiroPro wires
Accel cap and rotor

 

Just because the axle came out doesn't mean you need new gears. But if you want a better ratio, I recommend the Motive gears. I have Motive 4.10's and they're doing great.
To fix you car: You probably need a new axle, c-clip, and posi (maybe).

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AKA Pony Punisher II on all other boards.

89' Iroc-Z
ZZ3 short block-355 TPI ZZ9 cam
NOS 150 shot.
blah...blah...blah..
95' T-56, 6-speed
99' Z' rearend w/ 4.10's
------------------
1997 black Trans AM
A4, bone stock except for the Flowmaster.

 

I know what your saying about this being a tech board but if you've ever taken a collage course in history from a good professor then you'd know that Americans in the past have gotten even uglier then just the native american thing (not to say that that wasn't bad) but they have done worse, or WE have done worse.

 

You know, if people really thought about it, they'd be more pissed off by the American flag than by the Confederate flag!

Tech content... You need to upgrade to 28-spline Moser axles. Then get one of the Zexel-torsen diffs. from SLP for $99 (or the better one for a little more $$$ if you aren't on a budget). I think you may (or may not) need a new carrier, but you should be able to get it back on the road w/ 3.73's for less than $500.

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87 IROC-Z, 5.7, auto, 3.27, leather, !cat, Holley fpr, K&N'S, SLP 1-3/4" Jet-Hot coated headers, SLP .218/.224 .495/.502 cam, Comp 1.5 roller tip rockers, $uperPITAram, Edelbrock lower intake, Holley 52mm tb, Dynomax\Flowmaster catback. Coming Soon(?)- Fasttrack/Accell DFI

1989 Pontiac 20th Anniversary Turbo Trans Am - 160,000 miles, K&N filter

 

Geez, the mother came right out of the housing? You guys are talking like this happens a lot. I have a stock LO3 with a posi rear and its been making noise in the rear ever since I bought it 6 mos ago. When I let off the gas it seems to grind faintly. When I am making a right hand turn it sounds worse and practically goes away when I make a left hand turn. I definitely don't want the SOB to haphazardly remove itself from the vehicle when I am on the highway. Getting the rear checked out by a pro just jumped up on my priority list. Thanks for the reality check.

 

good point irocz.

Tech content: Yeah, I not sure just yet if the gear, carrier, or anything else went yet, the pros will find that out tomorrow. But I figured that even if the gear isn't busted it would be a good time to go ahead and replace it anyway. I think those torsens from SLP will only fit a 3 series carrier if I am not mistaken. But if the carrier is busted I may need a new one anyway.
88iroc: one of the first things I was thankful for on Thanksgiving was that I wasn'
t in your buddie's position being on the interstate. Could have been a real hairy situation.
Simon: Sounds like you are in the same spot I was. One of your axles may be wearing down on the nub end. If it wears down too much it will allow the pin to slip out and then.........
bsa

 

iroc,
the torsen unit is a carrier...it's all the carp in the middle of the setup. the axles are connected to it...as well as the ring gear, which is turned by the pinion. anyway, the carrier is what you have to worry about the most if you want to get a good rear...units like the auburn (which i hope to get some day soon) and the torsen are supposedly pretty good. now when you're choosing the carrier, remember your axles. older (88 and below i believe) ones have 26 splines and newer (89 and up??) have 28 splines. the 28 gives a little more strength but if you get a new set of axles they can cost a decent amt. of cash. you might need at least one anyway...thats probably your major decision there. then you need a good ring and pinion, whichever ratio you want, that will fit you chosen carrier series. with a good installation kit, have a shop put it all in and you will have a nice 10 bolt rear that can handle a little beating.

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350, Comp 262, Edelbrock Performer intake 600 cfm carb and exhaust, headers

 

ohhhhhhhhhh, ok. Sorry I'm an idiot when it comes to rear ends and transmissions. So could I get a torsen unit for a decent price that accepts the 26 spline axles??????? Will the unit from SLP work if I keep the same gear but change axles to 28 spline?????
Thanks. Excuse my stupidity.......
bsa

 

irocbsa,

I would go with a set of 28 spline axles, a good posi unit like Auburns or even the $99 take-offs from SLP (they require 28 spline axles) and a set of motive gears. What size gears do you have now? If they are 3.23 or higher you should be ok with the 3.73 gears, if not watch out b/c 3.73 gears won't fit in a 3.08 or 2.73 rear-end housing unless you order them especially for the smaller housing. Richmond makes gears for these applications but I hear their gears make a lot of noise.

in response to the other messages, some 89 cars had the 28 spline axles and all 90+ cars had 28 spline axles. I also remember seeing an add for moser axles or one of the companies that makes stronger axles, having a set of 28 splines for around $330. Check with Moser or Strange on their axle prices. If all else fails go to a junk yard and pull a 10 bolt rear from a 90-92 f-body V8 and have a good posi unit installed in it. The whole rear shouldn't cost but around $150 +/- ...at least that's what they cost around here.

You have me worried now, mine has been making a wierd grinding noise when I'm turning slow. My dad said it sounded like my backlash was out and just needs to be set back up. Personally I was hoping the thing will hold up until I get a aftermarket 12 bolt with Baer or Wilwood disc brakes ! Then again I better check the thing out before I'm running down the road at 100+ and the axle comes out.....that wouldn't be very pretty!

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1988 TA 300+hp 350 w/ TBI and Holley TB unit, Holley projection intake,
WC T-5, 3.42 gears w/ Auburn posi. MSD 6A, edelbrock TES headers, dynomax 3" cat and cat-back system, ACCEL coil, polyurethane bushings all around, aluminum driveshaft, Mr. Gasket open air cleaner.

1993 S-10 w/ 4.3L V6 TBI, slightly bigger cam, Mild polish job and 3 angle valve job on heads, Edlebrock TES headers, Dynomax cat back, MSD 6A, ADS chip

2000 Kawasaki KX 125

[This message has been edited by badbird88 (edited November 27, 2000).]

 

Thanks bb. I still need to know if the take off unit from SLP will fit with the 2.73 gears I have now (if I order the 28 spline axles.) Thanks.
bsa

 

Ok y'all, I got the word back from the dealer. They say the rear is completely trashed. They want 1629 for a new one. I need to know my options here. Should I just get one from a yard and stuff it with better parts or what. The gear, carrier, axles, everything is shot. I want to spend LESS than the above amount, not more. What can I do...........
bsa

 

I'm gonna start a new thread.............