Hello guys, I've made 34 passes with my car this year.... managed


2.24 60 foot
9.2 1/8 @ 79.88 miles per hour...

I'm looking to run in the low 8's or better...this car is a full restore...soo i can't put all my eggs in one basket............

Engine build budget $1000 or less...

car will have TCI 10" 3500 stall/ 4.11 gears...

Let me know if there are any changes that should be made...

The heads are Puched out pretty good by F-bird88....

The engine is not smoking..or running bad... I just want to freshen it up for next season...........and bump compression a little..

Desktop Dyno "Estimate"

Max Torque 415 @ 4500
Max HP 415 @ 6000

Engine Build Sheet

Moly rings

Federal Mogul Hypereutectic Flattop Pistons

Federal Mogul Seal Power Rod Bearings

Federal Mogul Seal Power Main Bearings

Federal Mogul Cam Bearings

Federal Mogul Lifters

Melling Oil Pump

Melling Timing Chain/Cam Gear

Pioneer Frost Plugs

Victor Reinz Gaskets $ 199.99

Harry Heads Rods w/ARP bolts $ 99.99

ARP Main Bolt $ 17.99

Summit 1.6 Ratio Extra Long Slot Rockers $ 65.99

Summit Rocker Ball/Nut Kit $ 14.00

Summit Push Rod Guide Plates $ 15.95

Comp Cams Hardened Push Rods $ 29.95

Port Matched Intake Gaskets $ 15.99

Head Gasket .015" shim $ 40.00

Hot Tank $ 138.00

Bore/Hone $ 195.00

Polish Crank $ 50.00

Piston Mounting $ 45.00

Total $ 992.99

Engine Specs after build

1972 2 Bolt Main 350 w/10:1 CR

Hyper Flat Top Pistons w/Moly Rings

Harry Heads Rods

ARP Rod/Main Bolts

Lunati - Bracket Master II

Dur @ .050: 230/230

Gross Lift: .480''/.480'' (Adjusted Lift w/1.6 Rockers .512"/.512")

Summit 1.6 Ratio Extra Long Slot Rockers

Comp Cams Hardened Push Rods

Summit Push Rod Guide Plates

Ported 416's w/1.94"/1.60" Valves

Edelbrock Victor Jr.

Holley 3310VS w/1" Carb Spacer

Thanx,

Rob

 

Wrong carb, to be certain!

I ran one of those on my 396 for almost 2 years. Switching to a 650 DP dropped an instant .2 off my 60'. That was when I had a 2200 stall converter, to boot.

Go with a 750 DP. You've got plenty of stall to support it, believe me.

Towing, use a VS.

Drag racing (and even daily driving), use a DP.

 

Yeah i've been thinking about that.....I saw the nice shiny carb....and said.. ok.. ....stupid stupid...............

I can get a 750 .. and rebuild it.............


Sell me VS....for the rebuild kit/carb...

Rob

 

Yah know..............Maybe I should just put new gaskets on the engine..........my hedman headers/ dual flows.. and forget about the power section....I mean...its not smoking ...absolutely no blow-by.........at all...

As much as i would hate not to work on the engine.....

Maybe I have to worry about the V6 rear end....and one wheel peel cituation.....and concintrate on lowering my 60' foot times...

I guess 9.2 isnt bad concitering:

I have a FULL tank of gas to get traction.
Had Single Exhaust
Had no idea where the timing was at
Stock 3.08 gears
No Posi
Worn out bushings all over the place
Bad wheel Hop

I think maybe I could break into the 8's....just in suspension work....

Seem like a better plan???

Rob................

 

I'm not running carb...but am running a stock converter, generally a stock engine, and pulling better times than you with a stock suspension...but I have positive traction and 3.27 gears. Mph is roughly the same. Thing is...I spin some too, so...with traction and good gear you could be at least 8.6s if not better.

 

I'm with the other guys on the carb situation. Get a DP. Also, your 60' times aren't very good. Leave the engine alone and get these items:

3500 stall
Holley 750 DP
M/T ET streets
Spohn adjustable torque arm
Lakewood LCA's
Posi and 4.10's (as you stated)
V-6 rear springs


I have done these suspension mods to my car and am getting consistent 1.64 60' times with 3.73 gears. Check my sig. You should be able to knock down some 1.8's at least with those suspension mods. My guesstimate with this setup is 8.40's or 8.50's. Now get some exhaust cutouts and gain another 2 tenths. Now, we're talking some low 8's. Exhaust cutouts on my car made me go from 8.10's to 7.80's.

 

I have the same cam you are planning on in my 305. I know you will be running 1.6 rockers but I would say use a larger cam, more lift, more duration, maybe with split duration (for lack of the correct term).

 

Yeah... this car is an 83....ALL bushings worn to hell.........I have the 3500 stall but.. havent installed it... .....The car is original V6... soo i have the V6 springs...

I'm gonna leave the motor alone.. but ...am going to get a DP..

 

Yeah i'm running that cam now..........nice cam..but...by the time i start to feel it pull.. i'm at the end of the track

Need some gears..........I went down the track without even pulling 3rd gear ...

I'd like to juice it ..but... now i'm pushing it.....

 

Does your motor have flat top pistons in it now,,, or dished pistons?

Do a compression test on the motor to see if its healthy.

should be 150+psi

The 750 vs is a good carb but will need some mods to make it a screamer.

You'll need a rear metering block kit ( metering block, longer bowl screws, gaskets and main jets)
use 72 primary and 83 secondary jets.
You'll want to get some secondary jet extentions and some accelerator pump shooters in the .045" range ( .025" is stock)
You'll want a secondary vacuum diaphram spring kit to adjust the secondary opening rate. ( faster, sooner)

It's easier to just get and Edelbrock 750(1407) or a 750 duobble pumper.
But if you don;t mind fiddleing with the vac sec carb, it can be dialed in to perform just as good.

You don;t need guide plates you have slots machined in those heads to guide the pushrod.

Don;t bother with 1.6 rockers. if you want more lift get a real cam.
Like the Edelbrock Vic JR. Camshaft pn #2203 ( cam and lifters)

specs are 249/257@.050 .522"/.531" lift on 110 centers
This is a powerfull solid cam. lash is .018"/.020"
( the cam u have now is a toy compared to the Vic JR. cam.
An alternative would be a Comp Cams #12-502-5
You can find the specs for both these cams on the manufacturers sites.
Use 1.5" rockers.

You will need to replace the valve springs.
Crane 99846 H-11 stock diameter springs will bolt right on.
You need to ensure enough retainer to guide seal clearance at full lift. The valve guide boss may need to be shortened.

You'll need a fuel system that can feed the engine with a steady supply of fuel.

Long tube headers and big dual exhaust will be best.

A single 3.5" exhaust system with a big free flowing custom made Y pipe will do.

You're loosing a lot of time at the starting line.
Your 60' times should be in the 1.8 range.
The 3500stall converter and 4.10's will help a lot.
You will need some high traction tires to put it to the ground.
Consider some M/T E/T streets (26x10.5x15)