Ok, I'm about to do my 350 TPI swap, but I can't keep my car together until christmas break to do it. My radiator is leaking and I can't get my hood to open. I pull the hood release and nothing happens. The hood won't come open. Is there any other way I can open it? Can I pry it open without hurting it? Maybe I should just grab a plasma cutter and go to work. Someone help me out before my car blows up! I need it to stay together for at least another week!

James

 

Here's a couple things you can try. Pull the latch and hold it open. Get a buddy to smak the hood with his fist like the Fonz did in Happy Days. Or try this. When you pull the latch, pull it very quick and then push it back in with the same speed. Do this a couple of times. I'd try this before I got out the plasma cutter. After you get it open, take out the hood latch (two bolts and the cable) and soak it in a parts cleaning solution. After it is completely clean lubricate it at the points of movement. Do this regularly and you sholdn't have the problem anymore. Let us know.
bsa

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"If they do not run, Then they will die." - Stonewall Jackson

'87 IROC, 355 TPI,700R4, Trick Flow Heads, Comp Cam, Comp 1.6 Rockers, Lucas 23# injectors, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster 3'' exhaust, gutted cat,
Mallory coil, Mallory HyFire IV ignition box, Mallory Sidewinder 8mm wires, Autolite platinum plugs, K&N filters, Transgo Performance Shift Kit, Corvette Servo, 2,000 Torque Converter

 

A friend of mine has the same problem on his '92 RS. What he figured out to do is this: he pulls the hood release, walks around to the front of the car, grabs the hood above each head-light, and shakes the $hit. Works every time.

-Mark W.
'88 SC Camaro w/ 305 TBI

 

Well you can tell your buddy to put a dab of grease on the latch mechanism and the pin that's bolted to the hood. It works like a charm everytime without kicking it or shaking it. LOL

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92 Z28 L98 350
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Ported and polished heads, ported stock TPI base, ported plenum, Comp Cams XR270HR-10 cam (lift .495/.502 duration 218/224 lobe separation 110), Edelbrock TES headers, LT4 valve springs, Crane AFPR, Flowmaster catback with LT1 style tips, MSD coil & wires.

Best ET 13.5@105 mph

"Take that auto, drop it in first, hold the brakes, stomp the gas and grin from ear to ear! :-)

http://www.truspeed.org/Members/Chev...dmondIndre.htm

 

or u could crawl under the front of the car, stick your hand way up inside and pull the hood latch back to get your hood open. it works...really..it does.

 

Ihateallmustangs, I was just going to bring that way up. I had to do that a few times (battery acid ate thru the pull-cable).

Yeah you just reach up and move the bottom of the lever towards the driver's side, which is the same direction that the cable pulls it towards. Hopefully most of the car theives don't know about that one...


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

yep, under the car way definetely works, but sometimes the hood just doesnt pop up, but just go out and pull up on it, after you pull the release obviously, and it usually pops up, then pull the latch and open it the rest of the way.

 

Try turning the rubber stops on each side 1/2 turn CCW

 

Great. Thanks a lot for the help, guys.

James

 

I used to do the exact same thing Mark305TBI mentioned to get mine to open. I used that white lithium grease that comes in a spray can on my hood latch mechanism, and now it pops right up!



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89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."

 

my method isn't much different, I hold the release with my right hand and smack the hood with my left. hit it hard but watch how you hit it,don't hit the top of the fender,it dents as I regretfully learned

 

I use the Fonz method---lets hear it for happy days!!!

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(Kill the headlights, and put it in neutral)

--George
92 RS 25th Aniv.
350 Goodwrench (NEW LO5)
700R4 Raptor: high performance intermediate billet servo, high performance overdrive billet servo,Mega Valve,13 vane high performance pump,1800 heavy-duty stall converter and a 29 element heavy-duty forward input sprag.