Combo now:
355 CI untouched World S/R Heads(1.94/1.5 valves) 1.5 Roller Rockers, Dart II Sportsman Dual Plane Intake, Holley 650 Double Pumper, 9.4 Compression(can get 9.7 if I use a thinner head gasket tho), COmp. Pure Energy 203/212@.050 economy cam with .425/.439 Lift

Tremec TKO 5-speed with 3.42 rearend and Nitto DRs. Best I have gone was 14.3@96.5mph with a spinning 2.1 60ft time(I only got to track twice with new combo and I didn't get hang off DRs yet-It has a 14.0 in her if I can get a 1.9 60ft time which I think is achievable even now)

I am looking at both hydraulic and solid cams, leaning towards a solid grind but I need for the cam to not be too big and still cruise fine at 1,900rpms@65mph on Highway. I am gonna port the heads this winter and hopefully get them flowing in the 220/170@.500 range and then its time for a cam change. Some cams I have been looking at;(All Comp except last one)

XE262 Hydraulic 218/224@.050(~260/264 adv.) with like .466/.477 Lift

HE268 Hydraulic 218/218@.050(268/268 adv.) with .454/.454 Lift

XS268 Solid Cam 230/236@.05(~264/270 adv.) with .477/.488 Lift (this is a solid version of the XE hydro 268...the .05 #s are bigger cause solids typically 'act' 6-8 degrees smaller then a comparable hydro grind)

Reed Solid cam 236/236@.050(264/264 adv.-real aggressive grind) with .486/.488 Lift

All Cams on 110 LSA. What do you guys think will work best(remmember I need good driveablity on highway in 5th gear)? Does anyone else have any cam reccomendations or can offer adice cause they have a similar combo? With the heads ported and a new cam I want low 13s next year.

 

going to need more than a cam change to get there.

 

Thats why I planned on porting the heads too, I figure with the right cam and ported heads I could see a 60HP increase at least and drop into the 13.4s-13.2s if I can get a low 1.9 60 or high 1.8.

 

With a manual I would try and get alot of cam in there maybe like an XE268 224I 230E .477I .480E 110 LSA it still had good torque in my auto with 3.42's. Mine cruised 60 at 2000 rpm's no prob. If you wanted to get radical you might even go to the XE274. Hopefully you can get your heads ported to flow close to what Vortec's flow. I ran 13.6 with a really worn out XE268 and very little traction. Your block isn't an OE roller block is it?

 

i got a penut cam with good results-untouched 305 heads on a 355 low compression to boot.

 

Thanks for the replys....anyone else have any good cam ideas or think one of the ones I was looking at will work well?

Its a flat tappet block btw.

 

Check out 84305HO's combination shown in another thread.
His combo is simular to yours and he cracked into the 12's with cold weather power.

He's using a Crane Energizer H278-10
specs are 278/278-.467/.467" 222/222@.050" 110 LSA.
This along with Cranes simular dual Pattern version Powermax H278-2 always work well on the street.
Both are tame grinds with good power and driveability.

www.cranecams.com

Get the compression up, tweek the heads a bit with bigger valves and some street porting and you'll have enough horsepower.
shoot for a 104mph quarter.

Be sure the whole fuel system from tank to carb is capable of feeding enough fuel to supply the motor at high rpm. Its easy to overlook the small stuff.

Some traction mods like control arm reloaction brackets etc will help cut the et. I like to use an airlift airbag to preload the chassis
improves pinion angle, reduces squat and wheel hop. make the limit slip posi work a lot better.

The carb may respond to some jetting/ acelorator pump tuning.
Only try differnt changes and testing will tell.

The as advertized chamber size on the S/R heads may be bigger than actual. May need to cc then shave 'em to spec.
But you'll have then off for porting and new valves anyways.
If you can get Sunoco 94 in Western NY like we use her in Ontario
then you can raise the cr to a true 10:1 without worry of detonation .

Don;t see any mention of the exhaust system. May need upgrading to let the engine perform to its max.

 

Another suggestion for a good hydraulic cam that is a great bracket cam and has good streeablity manners is the Lunati Brackt Master II 300/300 .515/.515- a step aobve the cam I have. We have 3 guys from the same group that are running, stock flat top 350's with the northern auto parts $154 rebuild kit, they're using double humps that have some basic port work done, headers of course, 2 guys have 8" race convertors, but the 3rd has a 10" 3500 stall with 4.11 gears and all three run consistent 12.00's and on good air days 11.90's, all pump gas and street driven. Granted their cars are on the lighter side of 3200lbs, but add 200lbs and your still low 12's. I have no idea how the S/R heads flow compared to the old school double humps, but if vortecs were put into their place of the double humps, out of the box from scoggy dickins, the same or possible better time is possible. With the vortecs you can even get away with a tad higher cpmpression 10.5-.6 since they are so efficent most prefer timing in the 30-32* range. Just another option for anyone else that happens across this thread.

 

Thanks for the relpys guys...F-Bird- This is actually a heavy 81 2nd Gen with leaf springs...everything rebuilt in the back end and it will have Cal-Tracs or Slide a links by next summer to help with the hook....I was hooking hard the first time at the strip even with 3K clutch drops but was getting real violent wheel hop so I need to get me some traction bars so I figure might as well get the best(most $$$) while Im at it.

The exhaust is 1 5/8 headers with 2 1/2 true dual with H-pipe and FLowtech Afterburner mufflers. I'm not sure if I am gonna go with the bigger valves cause of cost reasons it doesn't seem effective....I'd be looking at $175 for a Competition valve job from my machine shop plus whatever they charge for opening up the valves, then the actuall valves, so I would be looking at prolly $350 bucks plus $200 for the tools to port and so its like I could just buy another set of heads for that price. Are the smaller valves really gonna hurt me that much?

Also, if the deck is stock at .025(i've heard of some having as much as .040 tho!!) and the chamber is actually 67cc the most I could get with a steel shim gasket would be 9.9 CR...but I'm not sure how a steel shim gasket would seal on an undecked block..may have to switch to a .028 GM composition which would put me around 9.6 or so.

All comments are appreciated thanks guys.