First of all, this problem is on my wife's car, a '96 Camaro. But since this system also exists on Third-Gens (my '90 IROC has it) I thought someone might know. The problem is sometimes the ignition key won't work and the "security" light is displayed on the guage cluster. I've cleaned the chip or whatever the hell it is on the key, but that didn't work. She says that if she opens and closes the door and locks/unlocks the door it will finally work. The problem is too intermittent to take to a shop, but it is also a bitch when it happens. Any ideas would be appreciated. Sorry for the long story, and feel free to redirect to another forum if needed.

 

i had the same problem on my 89.a new key fixed it

 

Iroc,

That "chip" in the key blank is actually a resistor. GM installed one of fifteen possible resistance conbinations in the key blanks to increase the number of possible combinations that would operate a lock cylinder and ignition.

There are two leaf contacts in the lock cylinder that must contact the resistor block to enable the ECM to read the resistance. In addition to the key blank being clean, the contacts in the lock cylinder must be clean. For this reason, any kind of oil in the lock cylinder is a mistake - oil makes an excellent insulator. For this reason, only powdered white graphite should be used on ingnition cylinder locks on our cars, or any lock for that matter. I've done a little locksmithing, and all of the major players including Schlage, Best, Yale, and Corbin strongly discourage oils as lubricants in ANY lock cylinder, recommending graphite instead. Poor contact from the oil film can cause a lockout, and gray graphite can be condutive, so white graphite would be the product of choice.

You could try cleaning the contacts with a small swab soaked in alcohol, or fold a piece of fine linen (like an old bed sheet or pillow case) around a piece of card stock (like the backer from a note pad) and apply some alcohol to the cloth. Work the cloth in and out of the cylinder, noting the amount of debris you remove.

There is also a two-wire connector in the steering column that connects the contacts to the main wiring harness to the VATS module (or PCM in your 1996 case). Intermittent contact at that point can create resistance and cause a lockout.

Beyond that, the connections at the PCM are about all that's left in the circuit, so if everything else is operating correctly, I would presume your problems are elsewhere.

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Vader
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[This message has been edited by Vader (edited December 07, 2000).]

 

You can also measure the resistance on your key, then solder a resistor with the same value into those two wires that Vader mentioned...that's what I did and even though there's no more theft control I can always start the ROC...

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I see the VATS system is driving yet another Camaro owner bats! Here's what I did to fix mine really cheap and permanently. I found the most common problem with them is not the key, but the tiny wires coming off the module on the key tumbler get broken inside the insulation from being rotated back and forth every time you start your car. Mine began as an intermittent problem at first also.I repaired them once and put the column back together, and it only lasted about a month before they broke again. A new VATS key cylinder is about $50-$60 from the parts place. There was no way in he** I was going to pay that just to have it break again later. What I did was remove the original lock cylinder and wiring from the column. I repaired the wires again by soldering and heat shrinking them. Then I plugged the lock cylinder back into the plug at the base of the column without reinstalling it in the column. You then stick the original key back in it and tuck it up underneath the dash somewhere. I stuck mine above the driver's side kick panel out of sight. Then you go to your local parts place and buy a plain old lock cylinder for your ignition that only costs about $10-$15, and install it in place of the VATS cylinder in your column. They fit a VATS column just the same. Setting up everything this way prevents those stupid little wires from breaking ever again, and if you ever want to enable your anti theft system, all you have to do is reach under the dash and pull your original key out of the VATS cylinder. I haven't had a single problem with mine since I set it up this way. It sure beats having to try and tear your steering column apart at a truck stop when those friggin wires break again!



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89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."

 

I like that Pat. That is a pretty "stealth" idea!

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Thanks for all the info. I guess soaking a rag with WD-40 and repeatedly rubbing it on the key and then in and out of the ignition wasn't real intelligent (but you ought to see how easy that key goes in and out now). I will try the simple cleaning procedure first and see if that helps. Thanks again.

 

Pat has it. 99% of the time its the wires coming from the lock cylinder. Not a very great design, stationary wires attached to a rotating lock cylinder. Anyway, I don't reccomend bypassing the VATS because it really works. I see tons of cars that never get stolen thanks to PassKey/VATS.

Are you sure the lock cylinders are the same? I don't think they are, because when I retrofitted PassKey into my car, I had to do ALOT of grinding to get the new lock cylinder to fit in the column. The PassKey cylinder is thicker at the head to accomodate the "pellet" contacts.

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Hmmmmm, never tried to put a VATS cylinder in a standard column, but I guarantee it works the other way around. The VATS column has the provisions to clear the larger lock cylinder, and the smaller standard cylinder fits right in. I guess they must've made the VATS column specially for the cylinder, but when you bolt a standard one in, there's no visible difference from the outside. I guarantee the standard cylinder will work, because mine was an original VATS column.



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89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."