replacing a heatercore
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Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 115
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From: Neptune City, NJ, USA
Car: 92 RS 25th Aniv. V8
Engine: 350 L05 TBI
Transmission: 700R4 Raptor
replacing a heatercore
Ive never done a camaro before, Ive done Chevelle's and Novas but never a Camaro---and guess what? Its time---mine is leaking (windows fogging--all that fun stuff) and oh yeah its really cold out (my luck..)any and all hints or suggestions welcome, I think I have to go at it from the passenger floor area, it just went today and wow is it cold--so I havent looked at it yet, but will need to soon.. Do I need to remove the dash board??? And also, using conventional tools (no numatics) what kind of time might this take--and yes its leaking slightly into the passenger foot area--I know what that means, as Ive replaced these in other cars--THANKS GUYS!
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(Kill the headlights, and put it in neutral)
--George
92 RS 25th Aniv.
350 Goodwrench (NEW LO5)
700R4 Raptor: high performance intermediate billet servo, high performance overdrive billet servo,Mega Valve,13 vane high performance pump,1800 heavy-duty stall converter and a 29 element heavy-duty forward input sprag.
------------------
(Kill the headlights, and put it in neutral)
--George
92 RS 25th Aniv.
350 Goodwrench (NEW LO5)
700R4 Raptor: high performance intermediate billet servo, high performance overdrive billet servo,Mega Valve,13 vane high performance pump,1800 heavy-duty stall converter and a 29 element heavy-duty forward input sprag.
You'll have to take the dashboard out, but not the whole dash. You may also have to take out the passenger's side front speaker and maybe some air ducts to reach some of the screws. When I did mine it took me about 8-10 hours, but now that I have the experience of doing it, I think I could probably do it in half that time or less.
It's not as bad as it sounds.You do need to remove the dash pad and right front speaker.It took me about 3 hours total and that includes gethering tools.
You won't need to remove the complete dash assembly just loosen the passenger side and maybe remove 1 or 2 bolts completely,just to give you some room behind the dash.1 bolt on top of the core housing was a PITA!Good luck!
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http://www.camaroforum.com/
http://v6fbody.com/
http://nethirdgen.org/
http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/tristatecamaro
[This message has been edited by Kevin S (edited December 11, 2000).]
You won't need to remove the complete dash assembly just loosen the passenger side and maybe remove 1 or 2 bolts completely,just to give you some room behind the dash.1 bolt on top of the core housing was a PITA!Good luck!
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http://www.camaroforum.com/
http://v6fbody.com/
http://nethirdgen.org/
http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/tristatecamaro
[This message has been edited by Kevin S (edited December 11, 2000).]
You guys are joking right? I did mine in a 1/2 hour. I didn't have to take any speakers out, remove the dash pad or anything. All I did was remove the kick panel, a piece of plastic over it and a piece that holds the core in. To get the upper left screw all it took was a 2in 1/4 extension. Don't let anyone fake you out. Drinking beer it might take 45 minutes max. I should mention that the heater core was already bypassed so I didn't have to do anything with that. The hardest part was getting the tubes through the firewall. Again, 45 minutes drinking beer, 46 if you're real slow.
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82 z28 350cid, vortec heads, comp 262h cam, Holley 600cfm carb, 2in twice pipes, MSD ignition, turbo 350 trans, 3.73 posi, manly b&m megashifter
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82 z28 350cid, vortec heads, comp 262h cam, Holley 600cfm carb, 2in twice pipes, MSD ignition, turbo 350 trans, 3.73 posi, manly b&m megashifter
T,
82Z's suggestion work on '86s, too. You don't have to remove the dash pad. Remove the lower right bolt that holds the dash panel to the kick panel. This will allow you enough space to get a socket and long extension on that last 7mm bolt holding the cover on the heater core.
It took me about an hour once I had the right core, and it took longer to connect the hoses under the hood than anything. There's hardly any space there, and the first replacement core I got had standpipes that were not quite bent correctly, so the hoses didn't clear the back of the head. A suggestion - take your old core with you to match up the replacement, and pay attention to the pipe angles.
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Later,
Vader
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"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
82Z's suggestion work on '86s, too. You don't have to remove the dash pad. Remove the lower right bolt that holds the dash panel to the kick panel. This will allow you enough space to get a socket and long extension on that last 7mm bolt holding the cover on the heater core.
It took me about an hour once I had the right core, and it took longer to connect the hoses under the hood than anything. There's hardly any space there, and the first replacement core I got had standpipes that were not quite bent correctly, so the hoses didn't clear the back of the head. A suggestion - take your old core with you to match up the replacement, and pay attention to the pipe angles.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
Supreme Member

Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,416
Likes: 0
From: Johnstown, Ohio
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 355 (fastburn heads, LT4 HOT cam)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt, 3.27
8 + Hours?!?!?!
Maybe an hour and a half. I think the labor guide says 2.5 or something like that. I did mine in about 1.5 hours, and I was recovering from a surgery at the time (Wasn't in a hurry)
I wish I would've thought about loosening the bolt to make it easier to get to that bolt!
The sad thing is, I don't think the core was bad! I think it was just the hoses a little loose! No more than the core costs, and the fact that I had most of the way out when I realized this, I didn't even think of putting the old one back in!
Good Luck!
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Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305
Added dual elec fans.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
Building 430 HP 350
using primarily GMPP parts.
Block is in shop!
Awaiting results from all 8 ASE tests.
Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!
Maybe an hour and a half. I think the labor guide says 2.5 or something like that. I did mine in about 1.5 hours, and I was recovering from a surgery at the time (Wasn't in a hurry)
I wish I would've thought about loosening the bolt to make it easier to get to that bolt!
The sad thing is, I don't think the core was bad! I think it was just the hoses a little loose! No more than the core costs, and the fact that I had most of the way out when I realized this, I didn't even think of putting the old one back in!
Good Luck!
------------------
Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305
Added dual elec fans.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
Building 430 HP 350
using primarily GMPP parts.
Block is in shop!
Awaiting results from all 8 ASE tests.
Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!
I was following an old manual at the time I did mine and it recommended taking out the whole dash. Well, after I almost had the whole dash out (hours later) I realized that didn't really need to do all that.
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Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Neptune City, NJ, USA
Car: 92 RS 25th Aniv. V8
Engine: 350 L05 TBI
Transmission: 700R4 Raptor
I just wanted to thank you guys for your input, I have, believe it or not done cars that require removing the right front fender just to get at the core what a head ache!!! Im not a spring chicken anymore, and wanted to know what I am getting into, but now I know and should have few troubles with it--also much to my surprise the core itself was what I concider to be cheap, between 24-30 bucks, which by the way works for me cause my girl is getting bent about the costly upgrades, and replacements that I have done with this car, and end up with no heat...I would gladdly trade her for a six, no I mean a 12 pack, The camaro stays!!!! (LOL)
------------------
(Kill the headlights, and put it in neutral)
--George
92 RS 25th Aniv.
350 Goodwrench (NEW LO5)
700R4 Raptor: high performance intermediate billet servo, high performance overdrive billet servo,Mega Valve,13 vane high performance pump,1800 heavy-duty stall converter and a 29 element heavy-duty forward input sprag.
------------------
(Kill the headlights, and put it in neutral)
--George
92 RS 25th Aniv.
350 Goodwrench (NEW LO5)
700R4 Raptor: high performance intermediate billet servo, high performance overdrive billet servo,Mega Valve,13 vane high performance pump,1800 heavy-duty stall converter and a 29 element heavy-duty forward input sprag.
Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 378
Likes: 1
From: Morgan Hill, California. Age: 20
Car: 96 Formula/82 T/A
Engine: LT1/350 TPI
Transmission: T56/TH350
man. i did mine a few weeks ago and i didnt take the dash pad off. i got it all from under the dash. took me 1 1/2 hours total. ive never replaced any heater cores before. its not that hard
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RED82TA5.7L
1982 Pontiac Trans Am
Cross-Fire Injected 5.7l V8
Eldebrock Headers, 3" Hooker Cat-Back, duel outlet with quad tips.
Mods: 1.6 Proform Roller Rockers, electric fan, Corvette 5.7L computer chip, K&Ns.
Audio: JVC Kameleon CD deck, Jenson 4x6 front, Eclipes 6x9 rear, 2 10" mTx T4000 powered by a mTx 200watt amp.
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RED82TA5.7L
1982 Pontiac Trans Am
Cross-Fire Injected 5.7l V8
Eldebrock Headers, 3" Hooker Cat-Back, duel outlet with quad tips.
Mods: 1.6 Proform Roller Rockers, electric fan, Corvette 5.7L computer chip, K&Ns.
Audio: JVC Kameleon CD deck, Jenson 4x6 front, Eclipes 6x9 rear, 2 10" mTx T4000 powered by a mTx 200watt amp.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 7,964
Likes: 4
From: Norfolk, VA. USA
Car: 86 Trans Am, 88 Formula
Engine: 95LT4, 305TPI
Transmission: T56, T5
that is good to hear. My 86 T/A has a leak in the core I believe. I noticed it about 4 days ago. I was replacing all of the plastic trim around the car and was painting my carpets black when I noticed some green foam near the radio on the passenger side. the green foam was actually white foam that was saturated with anti-freeze. I'll be fixing mine sometime soon.
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Zepher
'86 Pontiac Trans Am WS6, LG4 305, 5 Speed, CF DF Clutch,
Edelbrock 1406 Carb, Edelbrock Performer RPM 7101 Intake Manifold.
Edelbrock Open Element Air Cleaner: Flowmaster Exhaust, 160* Thermostat,
Grant GT Steering Wheel, MSD HEI Coil, Taylor 8mm Wires, Recaro Seats,
Alpine CD+Changer,Rockford & Soundstream Amps, Premier TS-1040C Subs, Polk Audio highs/mids.
Best ET: 14.94@91.67
WS6 Trans Am
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Zepher
'86 Pontiac Trans Am WS6, LG4 305, 5 Speed, CF DF Clutch,
Edelbrock 1406 Carb, Edelbrock Performer RPM 7101 Intake Manifold.
Edelbrock Open Element Air Cleaner: Flowmaster Exhaust, 160* Thermostat,
Grant GT Steering Wheel, MSD HEI Coil, Taylor 8mm Wires, Recaro Seats,
Alpine CD+Changer,Rockford & Soundstream Amps, Premier TS-1040C Subs, Polk Audio highs/mids.
Best ET: 14.94@91.67
WS6 Trans Am
i did mine in a half hour too...i dont know if there were any changes from the early to late models that make it harder to change the core though. i notice that the others who did it quickly have an 82 and an 84, and i have an 85...anyway, take a quick look at it before you start...its very possible that you can just go under the dash on the passenger side, like the others said...remove the kick panel..and you'll see the heater box under there..then justtake the front cover off and unscrew the bracket that holds the core in and there ya go
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350, Comp 262, Edelbrock Performer intake 600 cfm carb and exhaust, headers
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350, Comp 262, Edelbrock Performer intake 600 cfm carb and exhaust, headers
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