GTA88

Hi,

I know a lot of us use 160 thermostats in our 3rd gens. I currently have a 180 in my daily driver Caprice. Will a 180 let the engine get hot enough to burn off carbon? I once had a tstat stuck open , and developed ping. My mech said the open stat had prevented the engine from getting hot enough to burn off carbon. I put in a 195 and after about a week, the ping went away.

This past summer I put in a 180 due to some overheating problems.

I guess most guys just leave the 160 in all year, once they change over to it, and I haven't heard about them developing carbon buildup, but I just thought I would ask my question anyway. !!


Final question : is a 180 stat hot enough to burn off carbon in the cylinders ?

Thanks

theformula

I would say yes you'd be fine. I too have tried a 160*stat and found nothing but problems. But I was running the stock prom at the time, it should be different soon.

Getting a lower degree stat will not correct your overheating problem. Try to find the source. radiator, water pump, fan switch, .etc.. Or get a Jet or Hypertech fan switch and use some Redline water wetter with it.

By the way I run 195* right now too.

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91 Formula
305 TPI 5speed
1LE/G92/WS6
Custom cold air intake w/K&N, SLP airfoil, ported plenum, TB coolant bypass,Crane AFPR (47psi),94 octane,Crane Extruded Alum. 1.6 full roller rockers, Timing set from 4*BTDC to 10*BTDC,MSD6AL, Holley 9mm Annihilator Laser shot 50 wires, Ac Delco cap,rotor and plugs, Bosch O2sensor, SLP 1 5/8 headers,SLP catback,3:73s,JET 195* fan switch, Macewen white face gauges, Intellitronix Digital Gauges

Stock throttle body, runners,intake manifold,cam, and heads.

GTA88

BTW, I did correct the overheating problem eventually, after replacing just about every non-radiator part. I had my old rad tested by a mech, who said it was fine. BUT.. I finally got a new rad anyway, which solved the overheating !

Mkos1980

iTrader: (8)

I have a 180 No Probs so far.

Pablo

iTrader: (1)

dont go lower than 180, the SBC was designed with higher temps in mind. 160 delivers inconsistent wot performance, and lower gas mileage

I used to have a 160 because i bought into the colder is better bs but the car runs better with a 180 now, performace is much more consistent

88irocz28

When the mercury hits 90s and 100s here in Arkansas, the 160* stat does a good job of keeping the motor cool. However, it's not meant for cold weather operation. I went back to a 180* stat about a week or ten days ago and the motor's running a lot better now. It's smoother and quieter and stays warm longer because of the higher operating temperature.

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'88 IROC 305 TPI
Gutted airboxes
160 degree T-stat
Advanced base TPS voltage
Relocated IAT sensor
Momo steering wheel
Ram-air setup coming soon
Flowmaster muffler
Taylor SpiroPro wires
Accel cap and rotor

stingerssx

All cumbustion engines run thier best as close to 220 as possible with out going over. So if you're at 200, or even better, 210, your good. The reason for this is the hotter temps burn HC's, which produce smog. But hotter than that you produce N2o. Cumbustion engines run from harnessing heat. So, actually a 195 will work good in average climates. In warmer areas, the 180 is good. It helps keep the coolant flowing at a stop light better. But remember, the longer the coolant stays in the radiator, the longer it has to cool, accepting the fact that it needs to circulate.

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'82 Firebird, dead stock, 9 bolt disc rear, over 200,000 miles and still going strong, more to come...

matthew

I think my thermostat is stuck open down. My engine hardly gets over 100. I guess I'll have a lot of carbon to burn off once I change it.

Vader

A long, long time ago, in a galaxie far, far away, (O.K., maybe it was a Fairlane) I said the 180°F was probably best for overall performance and driveability. Unless you're running at the track all day long, I'll stick to my story.

Incidentally, I don't subscribe to the 195° theory for efficiency. That was a temporary measure by GM to help meet emissions standards before the PCMs got sophisticated enough to manage engines properly. That suspicion is confirmed by the fact that the new higher performance Gen III SBCs come with a 180°F, just like they did back in the day when the smallest 283 made 300HP at the crank. Wassup, G's?

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Later,
Vader
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"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

Ovrclck350

Hey everyone. I just bought a Jet Stage 2 Performance chip, and I also bought a 160 stat, and a 180...my question is after reading this post. WHICH ONE SHOULD I PUT IN? I live in Tx, so having a 160 too cold isnt' really a big problem. I've just heard that I need the 160 for my chip, so I bought it, then I heard that 180's better, so I got it. I'm waiting on the rest of my mods to get put on (had to order everthing special being it's a 3.1) before I change it, but i hope to do it later this week.

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92 Bird 3.1L Auto
Best $750 I ever spent....

DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT!

Kills:
93 Mustang LX (Before Mods)
AIM name OVRCLCK350

Black Beauty

i ran without a stat in at all for over a month...then i put it back in cuz of bad mileage and long warm up time....i think it runs worse with it in....but i do get better mileage. its a 195....texas man...being its a 6 cyl go with the 180. good luck

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Rick
90 Camaro RS 305 TBI
400 small block, Hooker 1 3/4 LTs, Random Tech Cat, Hooker aero chamber cat back on the way!!
TH700-R4 with Trans-Go shift kit (corvette servo here...but not installed yet)
MacEwen Motorsports White Gauge Overlays
14" K&N X-Stream Open Element
GTS Headlight and Taillight covers
5% Limo Tint all around
Classic White Chevy Bowtie sticker on rear window
http://www.geocities.com/esvalenz

Man if my camaro were a rice-rocket all those mods would give me what...easily 50-60 hp!!!

"Just because I've done it, doesn't mean I knew what I was doing!" - Me