I'm thinking about a cam change for the summer and was wondering if it can be done with the engine still in and if so would it take longer than removing the engine? How easy did you find the swap??

Thanks for the help

Rob

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1987 IROC-Z Auto (LB9)
Black/grey with the stance of a streetfighter

Mods
Custom exhaust. 4 Inch pipe from the headders all the way back to a single muffler at the rear. No Cat.

Future mods:
K&Ns
RAM Air
New Underdrive pulleys-either March performance pulleys or Auto Specialties Performance
Air foil

 

I haven't done it with the engine still in, but from what I've heard it can be done. Phil Parson's from the best damn garage on the net had written an article on his page about it, but he has changed the link to his page and I don't know what it is. Anyone have it?

 

Havent done it either but I know it can be done and I hear it is easier than pulling the motor. You need to remove the radiator and condesor if you have it, Timing chain cover by lowering not needing to remove the oil pan, harmonic balencer water pump, intake valve covers , loosen rocker take out the pushrods and lifters and then remove the timing chain and gear and pull the cam out

 

Installing it while the engine is in the car is less work than removing the engine and then installing it.

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82 camaro--original steering wheel, brake/gas pedals, seats--everything else modified
82camaro

 

Here is the link to BDG http://www.racer-x.f2s.com/

 

Ha, piece of cake!!! Ok, it actually took me all weekend. I had a few minor hangups, but it really wasn't too bad. I've never tried pulling the engine on a thirdgen, but after swapping an engine in my pickup, I can honestly say I'd rather install the cam with the engine in the car.

 

You must remove the radiator, move the AC condensor out of the way, remove the center-brace from the front clip, and wiggle the cam through the cross-bars.

I've done it.

It helps sometimes to drop the transmission crossmember and tilt the engine.

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Daniel Burk
http://www.isthq.com/~dan/fcar.html
'84 Trans Am WS6/L69
KB SFC, Moser axles, Torsen Diff. PST suspension, Braided stainless brake lines, Koni struts, 11-inch rear disks,Spohn Adj. torque arm,
Ported 305 heads w/1.94"intake valves, Comp Cams XE262H, Griffen alum. radiator,
Turbine Technologies 2500 stall converter, underdrive pulleys, Crane Hi-6 & more.
1.05g skidpad verified.
New best E/T! 14.039 at 100.82 MPH in 41 degree air at Stanton, Michigan.

 

Good luck getting the timing cover to seal up good. Its a painin the *** either way you do it,especially having the ac evacuated. But doing it in the car is less work than pulling the motor. But oil leaks are more likely.

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87z 383,afr 190's, crane hyd roller(224/230-.509/.528,112 sep),Ported and polished mini ram, 30lb inj, 3.42 gears, strange 12 bolt, tremec 5spd, , 1,3/4" slp headers.

 

Dude, it's a pain in the a**., But just like everyone else said, it can be done. But you you do have to watch the last bearing when yanking out the old cam, that you don't scratch it up, then you're in a world of trouble and hell. Thats what happened to me and I almost said to the hell with it and sold the car, but my racing instincts kept the job moving. Good luck.

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88'TA 305TPI 330HP, NATURALLY ASPIRATED, PASSES N.J. EMMISIONS. "I AM JUST THAT GOOD"

 

I'm planning on doing it here in a few weeks, it seems do able, I just need to use caution on a few things.

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1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission with 2.77:1 Rear End

Current Mods: Edelbrock TES 1 5/8" Headers, Hooker 3" Aerochamber Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip with 160* Thermostat, Accel Ignition Coil, Cap, Rotor, 8.8mm Wires, K&N Filters, JET TPI Air Foil, All Free Mods, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.

Best ET : 14.32 @ 97.7mph
(corrected for elevation)

Next on the list: LT4 HOT Cam