Ok. I am in the process of saving money for a set of edelbrock E-tecs. I will be running a xe270 roller camshaft, edelbrock rpm air gap, a 670cfm street avenger carb, edelbrock TES headers to a 3'' hooker catback. I will be running 3.73 gears and spinning to about 5600 or so.

Would I see benefits from the 200cc etecs? I wont be spinning very high so I thought the 170s would probably be enough.

Im shooting for 300rwhp. I should hope that is possible with that setup. If not more. Id like to see a 12.9 timeslip also.

Which heads?

 

i would go with the e-tec 200's. with traction, guarenteed 12's

just think, the 170cc's are the replacement for the stock vortecs,

200cc's are meant more as a fast burn replacement.

 

Do yourself a favor and grab a XR276HR-10 and run it with the 170s.

 

Not that I come even close to knowing anything.

Why the 670 carb??? Sounds small for what you are doing???

Espically with the 200's


Matt

 

For a 350 with that cam the 170's are the right choice.
They will likely even make more peak horsepower than the 200's in your application.

Thje 200's are better suited to a larger CID motor and or a higher rpm motor with a larger cam.

get a 750cfm carb.

The Protopline "906" vortec replacements are a great head too.
They cost less and flow more than either stock vortecs or either of the Edelbrock Etecs.

Brodix makes a Vortec/fastburn style head too.

www.brodix.com

www.protopline.com

 

Here is a Car Craft article where both the E-tec 170s and 200s sneezed out 400hp on a 350 with a little cam, in the range you are looking.
However for a cam in that range the 170s would be the right choice.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/56978/index.html

A bit more cam is not going to hurt you at all, I would think that over.

How did you come to pick the cam you are planning to run anyway?

 

I would opt for the 170 heads but have Comp Cam custom grind a single pattern cam based on a XE profile.

My choice for cam would be a 224/224@.050 ground on a 110lsa with 2 degs advance. This will give extremely strong midrange and top end power.

www.geocities.com/dzperf

 

This is great advice as the E-tec 170s have a wicked exhaust port, 80% E/I ratio.

If however you ever plan to run N2O it would be nice to have some split between the intake and exhaust.

Also be sure you have decent exhaust sytem after the heads, 1 5/8 Hedman LTs would be a fine choice.

 

670cfm carb...because I have it already. I may step up to 750cfm someday but not right now.

I was looking at the extreme energy roller cam series. I have a roller camshaft so I didn't have that many cams to choose from. I would go with the xe282 if its streetable...definetly more cam than the xe270. Unless you guys know some better cams. I will get 1.6 rockers to.

BTW what is the XR276HR-10 cam? what part number is that?

Oh about the exhaust. I have edelbrock TES now. I would maybe switch to 1 3/4'' SLPs. Shorties only. I will not run longtubes and/or dual exhaust again.

 

Not that I come even close to knowing anything.

I would think the carb should be top on your list. sell the one you got on ebay and pick up something bigger.

670 sound small for even what you are running now, let alone adding more speed goodies.

Matt

 

WTF dude...670cfm is plenty for alot of setups. They 670cfm street avenger is made for 300-400hp. Until the cam swap I could not get the carb to stop running rich. After the cam swap and the smallest jets I have in my jet kit it finally stopped running rich.

A 750cfm would not give me any performance gains. Maybe at 7000rpm but I dont need that. The 670cfm street avenger with the right size jets will work fine. I am not getting a 750cfm carb yet. I dont think I will need it.

Carb is not on the top of the list. Its on the bottom. I dont know why everyone thinks a 750 is the magical carb for every setup. Why put a 750cfm on a stock 305 and throw in some #50 jets just so it won't run rich.........ok im gonna stop before i get pissed.

 

No need to curse at me I said

"Not that I come even close to knowing anything. "

You don't need to defend your self to me, I am just curious why.
I have no beef, that old lady stole it.

It just sounds small for a modded 350 and what your gonna do.

I guess I am more use to the FI specs and everyone throwing a 1000 ram jet on a stock 305. [not really though]

Matt

 

Find specs on page 142. It lists the whole XE class of cams for your application.

What conditions do you consider required for a street engine?

I run a XR276HR-12, and consider it well mannered for street use.

Agreed, make the carb swap last, get the rest of the combo up and running first.

 

What are you running for a converter?

 

Stock stall right now. I will be getting a better stall soon. Probably in the range of 2400-2800 stall.

Street cam to me = enough vacuum to keep my power brakes happy and it needs to idle OK. Rough is fine but I can't have it stalling out and I can't have it idling at 1500rpm to keep it running.

I'll look into those cams you mentioned. Page 142 or jegs or summit?

 

Oooooops!!!

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Ca...L/128-169.html

 

That would be about right, however I would not run either the 276 or 282 with a stock converterer.


Well the XR276HR-12 I have set to idle at ~750rpm, brakes, etc, work just fine but I am running a 383 and it is on a 112lsa Vs. 110lsa. The 282 will be more fussy thats for sure, but I cant give an actuall eperienced opinion. The 282 is alot closer to a street/strip cam in 350, it depends on what you want to live with.

 

Right now this is my only car. I can knock the head/cam/converter swap in a day easy. Im not worried about that. I just need something that will idle good, make good vacuum ect. This car may go on trips and such so It still needs to be reliable.

 

For a carburetor go with the smaller port heads and shorter duration cam.

 

Do you ever plan to flog it with N2O?

 

I've thought about using n20. I dont know if the bottom end will take it once I get the new heads and cam.

I am gonna go with the 170cc E-tecs, performer RPM airgap, and a xe268 or xe270 cam with 1.6 roller rockers. I think this combo would make gobs of streetable HP. And should still drive well.

Long as I can take car of those pesky mustangs ill be ok

 

Its gonna be a nicely matched setup for sure! I very heavily recomend you run the XR276HR-10 or a custom ground single pattern cam based on the intake lobe of that cam. It will have very acceptable street manners and will never let you down against the Fartstangs! That setup will give you a massive power curve with pleanty of top end pull to keep you happy as you run against those 24 valve stangs and deep breathing LS1 cars. I think the 270 cam will will be fun but just not enough for the parts you are putting into the induction system of that motor, not to mention a 3.73 might be a bit large for the 270 cam.

 

Can you get me the specs of that cam your recommending. I could find it in jegs or summit.

I MAY go with 3.42s I havent decided yet. I cant decide if I wanna get a th350 or a better 700r4...if i stay 700r4 3.73s it is.

 

specs

 

$$$$$$ for that cam. 345$. It better be a killer cam. Im not sure what Ill do for a cam yet but im pretty set on the etec 170s/

 

The cam is 240$, that is the going rate for most all of CCs hydra-rollers.

Where did you get 345$ from?

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2D08%2D423%2D8

 

I searched the part number on the manufacturers site. Said 345$ there. That looks like a good cam for what I am doing. I may go with that.

I need to get a stall and my gears first. What is a good stall for cheap?

 

What do you consider cheap? I paid 680$ for my Vigilante, I know that aint cheap but I really never researched any others. However Midwest seems to jump out for some reason, you may want to do a search for them.

Yeah I like that cam alot, so far I havent shifted it past 5000rpm but it pulls like a motha from 3000rpm-5000rpm I know that it has alot more in it past 5000rpm, soon I will be taking it to 5500rpm. I will let you know.

 

Id like to try to keep the powerband around 2000-5600. I will shift around that. I don't like having to low-end. I don't hardly have any low-end now. I think some 3.73s gears should solve that problem. I need to get the rear-end and suspension done. And a stall. Then the heads and cam.

Im a poor college student...cheap stall would be in the 300$ range. Id like to have a 9.5'' converter but way to expensive...ill probably end up with a 11'' or 12'' stall.

 

I am building a fuel injected 406 to go in my 1LE '82 Z28. Here are the reccomendations from JayAdams at CompCams;
Cam 12-560-4
Heads Edelbrock E-Tec 170
Rockers 1.6 self aligning INTAKE
1.5 self aligning EXHAUST
Converter Use a stock vette converter (which I currently use in my TH700R4)
Induction Holly Stealth Ram (for a trouble free installation and user friendly)

My intention is to use this car strictly on the street with some mild autocross/road type stuff.

One of his comments really impressed me "For the model and year of the car you have you are limited to a single cat and a single 3" exhaust pipe. Keeping this in mind focus on developing all the torque you can get from idle to 4,000 RPM and you will have a killer setup for the street. It will also work well with your A/C and ower brakes. 4,000 to 5,500 will take care of itself.

He predicts 525 LBS of torque at 3,600 (475@2,500)and 430 HP at 5,000. That is exactly what I want, and I can drive the car daily.

Just my 2 cents worth, andyZ28

 

1. What are the cam specs?
2. You cant bolt a HSR upto a Vortec/E-tec/Fatsburn head.
3. The 1.6/1.5 rocker combo sounds reasonable as the E-tec heads have a wicked exhaust port, I/E of 80%.

 

Specs at http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Se...60-4&Submit=Go

Duration 224 intake 236 exhaust
Lift .477 intake .490 exhaust (w/1.6 intake=.508 Intake lift)
Seperation 113 degrees

I may end up not using the stealth ram but using the genVII Accel system instead.

 

WOW!!! Thats an awfull lot of spread in the duration numbers for heads, E-Tecs, that have very strong exhaust ports, both the 170s and 200s flow 80% E/I.

 

I agree with you for a carb engine. But I was told it will be fine for a DFI setup. Not mention the larger cubic inches of a 406.

 

Why are you wanting to run E-tecs? I didn't get a chance to read through the whole thread, but if you have a carb, 350 with that 270 grind cam don't limit yourself to only the brands the magazines advertise. Ever heard of Canfields?? Cost exactly the same as the Etech 200's, but make as much power as AFR 195 (which cost a hell of a lot more). I have the canfields on my firebird, was going to go with E tec's until a friend with a 11.80/canfield equiped chevelle knocked me upside the head

 

170cc ports on a fuel injected 406!

Mental note to self (Don't talk to JayAdams ever).

 

Yep, great choice. The Canfields are great.

 

Another vote for the E-tec 170's....or even the Canfield 195's. They are both priced about the same and are great heads. I'm with Ominous...single pattern cam, for sure. How about the Magnum HR270 with 1.6 ratio rockers. That would be about a 525" lift on both intake and exhaust with about 219 degrees duration @ .050. Your goal of 300 rwhp should be a cinch with this combo.

 

Not to mention limiting your manifold choices.

 

I hope you mean '92 Z28, there is no such thing as a 1LE 82

 

where can you get canfields for 1,050 bucks???? i thought they cost like 1,349 for an assembled pair (195cc)

 

An engine is an air-pump. Carb Vs. EFI has nothing at all to do with air flow potential, well to an extent it does, but it most certainly doesnt warrant running a cam with 12* more exhaust duration when the heads have a 80% E/I ratio.

 

There are several folks out there who have griped about not getting expected performance out of their Canfield heads, this may be a topic you want to look into.

A torque monster for sure, but you just might want to think of a head that is closer to 200cc intake.

Whatever you do it seems you need to invest some more time in combo research before you spend alot of money on mismatched parts.

 

Ominous, I'm totally on board with your suggestion to the 170 heads and cam for the intended purpose of this motor. Too many people get teh idea of big heads are the stuff-not unless you have big cubes, the big cam is for those of you who want to spin 8K or higher. This package listed above is a very potent street motor that will defineately put down some mustangs-non cobra-and newer 4th gens if traction is right, plus live forever. What more could you want besides a bigger carb?!! I will agrgue to the death on this subject since I HAVE been there and HAVE done that starting with a 600cfm and currently running a 950HP on my POS 355 with 305 heads. No one car tell me dropping .23 in the 60' and 1 full second in the 1/4 plus picking up 5mph at the big end is over carbed. I had the 600, 750, 830, and now the 950HP. Your choice of the 670cfm is there because you have it, but when you get ready to really pick up some hp/tq. get a bigger carb as you will not be disappointed and will be glad you spent the money.

 

For the rwhp 88Camaro350 is after (300), I think the Holley Avenger is fine. When the need for more power comes (and it will), then go with a bigger cam and the bigger carb.

 

It'll work, i'm not saying that, but you'll be amazed running the same combo, just by removing the the 670 and getting something a little bigger how much it'll change the power and it's a lot easier and easier than swapping heads and cam in the future, might even be enough for you to leave well enough alone for awhile after this motor is put togeher. Heck, if nothing else borrow a buddies bigger carb at the track for some test runs, just be sure to get it dailed in so the tests are conclusive, after the BS you'll love the results.