aight here's my problem i just bought a project car(85 iroc LG4....but i think the guy swaped a 350 in there)any way the engine was missin the intake manifold,distributor and carb so i took them off a 85 z28 i had layin around.. i set everything up,set the timing by ear(car starts right up but idles a little high probly the carb needin tuning, i then went to take it for a spin down the street but when i i give it gas the car feels like its tied down... lke my bone stock LG4 wit bad rings pulled more then this car is and this egine has a 3" full exhuast and header so it should pull more...the engine doesn't smoke not even at start up no knocks or pings, carb could probly use some tuning but was runnin good on previous car,spark plugs are good distributor looks to be ok....i thinkin its the timing but not sure..could it be that maybe its a 350 and is runnin like crap cause i put stock LG4 parts on???.... do any of u have any ideas to wat i could be????
thx in advance

if something is not clear let me kno and i'll try to explan more
and the reason i think its a 350 is cause the headers are thick to thick for a LG4

 

when you set the timing did you unhook the electronic spark control? I believe on the lg4 you had to unhook one of the connectors on the distributor when you set timing to keep the computer from wanting to help you out.

 

no i didn't but how do u find out if its a computer controled distributor?
where they all computer controled

 

I had my manual sitting here and for the 82-87 models you have to unplug the 4 wire connector on the dist after warming the engine up and then turning it off. It'll still start with that being unplugged it'll just not let it get any electronic advance from the computer.

 

but i think i got a vac advance carb so do i just unplug the vac advance???

sry bout all the question i'm kinda new at this

 

anyone?????????

 

no its my understanding me not having one of those normal dist (danm gm) that if you put a vac cont dist on it you dont have to worry about the comp in fact you oculd probally take the computer out as long as the carb isnt ocmp ocntrolled then you you could take out all the egr sh*t too =)

 

if its not the timing could it be the carb
i don't think its opening up when i floor it

i really need to get the car back on the road so if any of u can think of anything plz let me kno

 

Maybe the carb is just jetted poorly, or there's something wrong with your secondaries. My buddy had the carb vac. lines all mixed up and his secondaries stopped working. Car was slow as all hell.

If you're gonna set the timing properly, you gotta disconnect the EST (Electronic Spark Timing) connector. On the V6's, it's on the passenger-side fender, a one-wire connector. But I'm not sure about different year V8's. If it's a vacuum advance distributor, remove and plug the vacuum advance line from the distributor. I always recommend using a timing light just because it's cheap insurance and lets you see exactly what you've set it to. I'd set it back to stock timing, or two degrees above. If your timing is underadvanced, the car will be very slow but start up easily. There are other side-effects, but I don't remember them. If the timing is overadvanced, the car will be harder to start, and it will want to ping.

How's all your ignition stuff? Decent plugs and wires? Getting a good spark off that coil?

 

aight thanks for the help i'm gonna try that

 

aight thanks for the help i'm gonna try that

 

I had something similiar to that...car just wasn't pulling like it should...what my problem was, was I was only running on 7 cylinders a pushrod broke and was just sitting there looking ugly. ever open the valve covers? just a thought.

 

ya i did and plus the engine doesn't make any weird noises i'm guessin a broken pushrod would be real loud

 

Qjets have a secondary block off so that the secondaries don`t
open when the choke is on. Maybe your high idle is a sticking
choke/fast idle that is not allowing the secondaries to open.

 

ya thats probly it because my choke light is on in the car all the time i don't know how to fix it
do i have to get a new choke?

 

Okay I can help you with the choke problem. I just had the same problem. I replaced the choke and that still did not fix mine. So to save some money try this first. Go under your dash and take off all the plastic pieces near the fuse box, this will expose a lot of wires and stuff. There will be a black plastic box near the console take it off, there are 3 relays, the choke one should be a drab green, if it is a different color it will be the one closest to you ( if you are sitting in the seat). Take it out and go to the auto parts store and ask for a choke heater relay. $ 10 and you might be able to fix it, if the light still comes on its your choke and that will run you $40 or so. Try the relay first though that might just be the problem. Good luck



Drew

 

you know wat thats probly it cause if i unplug the choke at the carb and try to start the car there is this really loud buzz that comes out of the green thing
but thanx i'm gonna check it out

 

why dont you look up the casting number and see what you have rather then guessing? the casting num is on the back of the block by the transbellhousing in back of the drivers side head, also theres a suffix code and partial vin on the small ledge in front of the pass side head and there should also be a partial vin # of the car it came out of..

 

ya i'll do that, i didn't kno there was a castin number there
thx