Alright guys, i have read about the LT1 conversion and some about the miniram, and i know that the miniram was used in the design for the LT1(kinda a copy). The LT1 conversion requires many different thing, for me the intake and distributer and also lots of other little things. I am wondering, will the miniram fit directly onto my 305 with no mods needed for anything around it(ie. distributer, pulleys)?

And also what kinda things will i need todo to my 305 to make the most power come out of the MiniRam/LT1 ?

 

I would say a good heads and cam package would REALLY help. Full exhaust wouldn't hurt either.

 

i've got a new exhaust, its some kida edelbrock. But i want a new intake manifold as well, and i heard that the MiniRam ios better and just want some opinions.

 

for a 305 to utilize a miniram you would really need to do a grip of mods i am not being a butthead call tpis and ask them,you should settle with some runners and a 52 mm nothing more,small cam etc,3.73s!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

but would it bolt on as easily as a new TPI manifold would? i mean i dont like the fact that to uise the LT1 i have to modify everything or atleast buy new stuff. Will the MiniRam bolt on and a fit with a old distributer?

 

You're gonna spend all that money on a miniram and worry about buying a distributor conversion that runs about $175? I did look at the Miniram for about 5 seconds before i decided to buy my LT1 intake.

 

i found a site that sells the minram intake minifold for $450, so its a preice thats good.

 

Including the 350 dollar (from TPIS) fuel rail kit?

 

no they sell it for $175

 

what site is that? I wish i knew how to get TPIS to come down on prices.

 

the miniram was made for rear mounted dist. cars long before gm had made the LT1!if you use the converted LT1intake would beway cheaper,john millican has this product for sale,color coded etc.for the amount of $450.00 look him up he is on this site or typr in LT1intake .com

 

actually he said it would cost me a whole **** load of money. **let me get the calculator** ok $735 with shipping. I'm gonna have to get all kinds of shizzle.

here the prices he told me,
thats alot more money for me d00ds, and i heard that the miniram is also better, but i donno.


and also i wont be able to use my Accell HEI Super Coil becuase i have tio get a new smaller distreibuter. Which really sucks a$$hole.

 

Not true. You don't need a modified engine. You can use the LT1 style intake on a 305 stock. No mods to the engine at all. GM did it for a long time. Remember the 4.3L V-8 in the Caprices? They are called L99. They are EXACTLY the same as the LT1 intake on the outside. the ONLY differance is the size of the ports. The L99 has slightly smaller ports then the LT1. Last time I checked the 4.3L was smaller then the 5.0L 305 so engine size isn't a real concern, port velocity is. The 4.3L performed pretty well in that heavy Caprice. I have sold intake conversions to prople running 305's and they love it.

 

well guys, i've decided, and its gonna be an LT1, but not a LT1 intake manifold, the entire blokc, gonna cost only $650, with onyl 93k miles on ti thats a pefrect price. You can get these engines with very similar prices from, http://www.tacreations.com. They even have LS1 engines for very cheap prices, $2600 with transmision.

So uh john, uh the prices you are charging are a bit harsh becuase once i found out this i knew it was gonna be it. $650 for the entire engine w/o transmision, and its warenteed for 30days from them.


Also guys got one more important question. Since the LT1 intake manifold can use the old wiring harness, will i need one for the entire engine when i get it? Cause the engine doesn't come with anything except the engine and intake manifold.
This is what it says
So my belted accessories will fit onto this engine also, correct? My AC dont work and i really dont care about getting it replaced, ever though i live in florida. I've got my t-tops and windows and they work just fine. I'm not the best mechanic, well mainly becuase i'm inexerienced(i'm only 16), and i learn from my stepdad which used to own a repair shop in Maine before he got into the Navy.

 

Well, john's prices aren't harsh compared to the alternatives. The LT1 isn't a cheap alternative. none of your accessories will work, because the LT1 uses a water pump driven by the camshaft. Also, you'll need an LT1 wiring harness and computer to control the opti-spark ignition, modifying the stock one would be nearly impossible, especially if you don't have much experience. I don't even know if your wiring could be converted, and i'm a 3rd year electrical/elecltronics student.

 

John,
Kudos for the website. This makes getting a better fuel injction system for us TBI guys a reality.

I have many questions and much research to do before tackling this. My main question is what is the RPM range now with that installed? Is this particularly feasible on a 305? I know that it will work but would I really want to?

Thanks Scoty

 

alright i emailed that company(tacreations) a while ago about the stuf i would need and prices for it, but i'm guessiong i can get the entire setup for maybe $850 - 900.
this including
-Used Wiring Harness
-Used Alternator/Pulley
-Used Power Stering Pump/Pulley
-Used Computer
-Used Smog Pump(if needed, i live in florida with no emissions)
-Used Brackets
-Used anything else

I'm telling you these people sell this stuff they have like they are a junkyard. All they do is colect FireBird/Camaro Parts, every generation of them too. I think $900 is a very good price considering the power gains i'll get. Right now i got 190HP(well i think so i got a edelbrock high flow exhaust, and a few other small mods), with this engine i get atleast 275HP. Which is perfect for me to start new. I can legally clean the engine bay of all emissions stuff since i live in florida, really clean engine bay then. Plus since my step-dad is only here on the weekends this will be a great weekend project for us.

 

What about a transmision? I don't think the 700R4 will work and the 4L60E will cost you a little, that is if I'm not mistaken.

Some buddies of mine have done some research on this, One of whom has dropped an LT1 in his IROC. This is not an expensive swap but there is more to it than just the long block and acc.

Not trying to rain on your parade and I'm all for an LT1 converion, just hoping that you take EVERYTHING into consideration.

Scoty

 

well the 700r4 and the 4L60 are soposedly the same exact transmision. I got this from this quote-
so basically they are exactly the same transmision so each will bolt on equally.

I have read up on this swap for quite some time now. Its pretty much a direct drop in for my car. I also read up on the LS1 conversion and its a lot more work, actual modifacation needed for it to work. The LT1, only thing i will have to worry about is the fact that the AC compressor sopoedly wont fit anymore after it. Gonna have to find something todo with it. But anyways............

 

assuming you can get it for 900 for the entire setup, what are you gonna do when your 93000 mile engine spins a bearing on the 31st day after you get it, when they won't guarantee it anymore?

And the LT1 ECM and wiring harness won't control your 700r4. They are set up to control a 4L60E transmission. Even if it's a 93, the computer is set up to control a 5 pin 700r4.

 

Well LT1 engines have proven themselves to be very reliable over and over again. They will last for maybe 180k miles then need a rebuild, but they could kept going.

well even if it is supposed to connect up to the transmision, there is no way to, i will havw to find a way to connect it up anyways. I'm positive it will still work without the 4L60E transmision. i've heard of many people doing it with the same transmision. So it has to be possible.

 

i'm not saying it won't work without the the 4l60e, i'm saying the computer won't control the lockup in the 700r4 you have now.

 

ok, i'm getting confused, lockup is when the transmision locks to the torque converter right? I always thought that was internally done thing.

 

the TCC (torque converter clutch) in the converter is controlled by the connector that goes into the transmission. that is the only thing that those 4 wires control.

 

so how would i modify this to work with my old transmision? There has to be a way todo this. I know there is.

 

it won't control your old transmission. You'll have to get a stand alone controller for your transmission.

 

how much do those run for? please tell me less than $450.

 

Well, i made my own simple one for about 25 dollars.

 

how did you make it? i'm not good at putting stuff together unless i see it. I'm a knetic learner. So if i give you $45 will you be able to make me one?

 

back on topic....
I suggest you talk to the guys that have converted their 3rd gens to LT1s. Ask them how much it REALLY cost them.

 

i've seen prices like 1250, but they paid way more than i am gonna for the motor.

 

all it consists of is chaning a simple pressure switch on the valve body and connecting 3 wires in the tranny. Then you just have to supply 12 volts to a vacuum switch that will disengage the clutch when you downshift.

 

Well, i guess i just view it as if i'm gonna pull my motor, i'm gonna rebuild it so it's fresh and I won't have to pull it again soon. Unless I was doing a low milage LS1 conversion or similar, i personally would never put in a used engine. The LT1 in my 94 Formula only lasted till 125k, and i NEVER abused it.

 

well i am not buying it over the net, they are located in southern florida and i'm i jacksonville. SOi'm gonna go down there in my step-dad's Dodge Ram 2500 V10 and pick out a motor that i like so i dont have to pay freight. Trust me he and i know what traits to look for in a bad and abused engine. One being crusty stuff on the heads, another being the smell of the oil, stuff like that. I dont know why your LT1 didn't last its full life span, police cars with the LT1s go for 180-200k miles then they rebuild the engines. Trust me on this my mom's a beautician and she know a mechanic for the local police dept. and thats when they get rebuilds. But if they want to they sell it in the local auto traders, tons of them with the police paint job still on them, most of them are at least 180k miles. LT1 have for the most part proven to be more reliable than the new LS1 engines also. The LS1s havn't been around long enough to proove themselves though.

and like i said, i'd have to see pcitures or see it done to make something for the transmision. a knetic learner is someone who cant read or head howto do something, they have to see it be done.

 

ok, see it done.....

k..i....n....e...t....i.....c....

kinetic learner.....just kidding.

 

but yeah, when i do this i'll be asking you for some detailed instructions. Do you have a digital camers, or a camcorder, take some pictures of every single little step. Then i will be able to complete this project. Also, i'm almost positive that $900 will do this project completely, plus then when i sellmy engine i get a lot of it back. Kinda cool.

 

So thats what they talk about in there.

 

Take your best estimation on what it will cost and double it, at least. You would be amazed by the little stuff that comes up.

 

I agree. I'm on vehicle number 10, and i'm only 23. bought my 1st car out of a junkyard, a 64 GTO converable 4speed (almost crapped my pants seeing it there). since then i've been restifying (restoring/modifying) cars. Even did it professionally at Central Alabama Restorations. i've seen this to be true more often than not, especially when you haven't done this more than a few times.

 

no but i guess sometimes weird topics come up. I worked with her for a few months and its weird how my mom can make people think she knows what shes talking about, but really not have a clue.

Well little things to be expected i've already taken into consideration, i'll have $1400 saved up for the swap and then go from there. Most likely only spend $1000. I might need a better fuel pump even though i just got the one thats in there. My step-dad used to have the car and ran it out of gas way too often and ruined the old fuel pump. Had the petal to the floor and was only going 5 MPH, too funny. Does that mean that the engine was sucking its own fuel from the tank or that the pump just wasn't pumping good.

 

My prices are harsh? Compared to what, a complete engine replacement? Well buddy you're in for a surprise very soon then.

Anyway, after reading all the above posts you still need to find a way to adapt your fuel system to the LT1's fuel rails. I do offer a quick solution.

 

we tried,and tried you can lead a horse to water but you cant make it drink........

 

it seems interesting to me that several people have mentioned that the expense that you are talking about might actually be more, and you still seem to disagree, even though these guys have built several cars.

I have to agreee that since you have the motor out you might as well at the bare minimum rering, new seals, bearings and gaskets. It is great insurance but that alone would add probably another 100 or so ( I haven't checked the prices on a gasket kit for an LT1).

Not trying to bring you down fellow just hoping you'll understand that if it takes 900.00 to buy everything that it could still cost you 300-400 more dollars. Now you're at about 1400.00, then take into account you're car has more power than it ever has things will start breaking.

Good luck with this project and keep us informed, and I hope you can do it for around 1000.00 I was planning on spending about 3000.00 for my LT1 swap, but then I was going to put some go fast goodies in the engine also.

Scoty

 

Also, there is no provision for a TV Cable on a 94-97 LT1 TB.
Probably could have that fabbed up, or get a 93 TB if the TPS and IAC from the 94 TB will bolt to the 93 TB.
I've worked on 1.5 LT1 swaps (mine being half finished).

Oh, and the LT1's are quite durable motors.
After 220K miles, the LT1 in my brothers 96 T/A spun every bearing in the motor. It was driven very hard all the time, but it was maintained regularly. It might have lasted longer if he didn't do the heads and cam swap on it. Seems like a lot of people doing cam swaps are having problems with spun bearings.

 

Zepher,

I haven't heard that problem. Buddy of mine just picked up a 95 T.A. with about 220 on the clock, pulled the engine apart just freshened it up and stuck it back in. Oh yeah he changed a few select items while he had it out.

Another buddy has an LT1 in his IROC, who happens to be on here also and is laying down some somewhere in the 400 hp range to the pavement. Damn sure will set ya back in the seat .

I'm looking forward to doing mine but it probably won't be for another year or so.

Scoty