zz4 cam into 88 305 roller block. reusing roller lifters, new timing chain set.

Thinking ahead I wanted to clean the lifters -- a friend told me soaking in kerosene or diesel would do some good.

Also, how do I get the crank sprocket on? took the old one off with a puller but is there a tool I should use to put the new one on or can I just cinch it on with the balancer?

since it is a roler block I thought I could get away with just putting fresh oil on the cam before instalation but since I wont be starting it for like another couple months should I put some moly kote on anyway?

Thanks for your experience in advance.

 

I use carb cleaner to clean the lifters. Soaking them in gas will do the same thing. Dry them off and then soak them in motor oil. You want the needle bearings to be lubed.

I would definately put something heavier than oil on the bearings and lobes if you don't plan on starting this motor for a while. I use vasaline on my bump stick. Moly lube will work fine too. I'd stay away from assembly lube b/c they put grit in there to help break in the parts.

Also, throw some lube on the dist. gear. Cam or dist. doesn't matter, just don't put it in dry.

 

kewl -- what about the crank sprocket?

 

crank sprocket will pretty much fall on, with a little help from a hammer and a socket to use as a driver. there isn't any grit in any assembly lube i've ever saw or used. FB how about soem makers name and PNs for the assembly lube w/grit? 105 lubriplate is very good lube.

 

ok -- I have big sockets, thanks.

 

Be sure to have the balancer install tool. It can be made using threaded rod, a couple of greased flat washers and a nut.

When I re-installed my lifters; I cleaned them with mineral spirits, then submerged them in oil overnight. Next day, while keeping the lifters submerged in oil, I inserted an old pushrod and cycled the plungers. I was amazed how much air came out. After the air was out, they stiffened up considerably.

This also seemed to help setting the initial valve lash.

 

If you heat up the crank gear in your oven for about 10 minutes at 350-400 degrees, it will slide on much easier. Just be quick about it.

 

hey thanks guys -- I got the cam in saturday but quickly realized scoggin dickey sent me the wrong timing set.

Question -- is the cam supposed to have this much play in and out of the block with the retainer plate installed ?

I can slide it back like half an inch till it hits the back of the block from where it touches the retainer plate. is the cam gear supposed to ride against the retainer plate to keep the cam from moving back like that or am I missing parts?

its a zz4 cam in my 88 305 block if that helps

 

Did you say its moving 0.50" in and out of the block?!?!?! If so, then that's very bad. No cam should walk that much.

 

Yes the cam can move quite a ways back in the block with the gear off of it. This is normal.

If the cam gear isn't on the cam, then there's nothing preventing the cam from going all the way through the block and knocking out the welch plug in the rear. In fact if that plug wasn't there, the cam could slide all the way out of the block to the rear.

You might want to avoid pushing the cam back in there that way, unless you'd just really like to pull the trans and replace the plug, to fix a newly created mystery oil gush out of the bell housing.

 

haha - no thanks I think ill pass on the freze plug.

thanks guys