TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

Take a glance at this list (ignore prices) and just see if it all looks like it will fit together, or if their are any complications that stand out. Thanks for all your support in helping me come to a conclusion.

350 GM small block
Bore: 4.030"
(.030" over)
1 x $50.00

World Products Heads
Sportsman-II
64cc straight plugs
(requires heat treated pushrods)
1.5 ratio rocker arms
valve size: 2.020" x 1.600"
Item # 955-011250-2 2 x $459.99

SRP Pistons
-16cc dome vol 457grams
64cc -9.8:1
1.425" C/H
5.7" rod
3.750" stroke
Item # 867-139628 1 x $514.99

(or these ones
64cc-10.4:1
1.250" C/H
6.0" rod
3.480" stroke
Item # 867-147064 1 x $514.99

Eagle Rods
6" Pressed (or bushed?)
Item # 356-SIR6000BPLW 1 x $319.99

Crane Cams Camshaft
350 5-spd. w/3.73-up.
Adv. Duration: 272º/284º
Gross Lift: .454"/.480"
Item # 270-114142 1 x $154.99

Crane Cams Hydraulic Lifters
55-91 SB
Item # 270-99277-16 1 x $315.99

Crane Cams Pushrods
Chrome moly 5/16"
Stock Length
(Heat Treated)
Item # 270-95636-16 1 x $143.99

Proform Roller Rockers
STeel Tip
1.5 Ratio 3/8" stud
self-aligning
Item # 778-66926C 1 x $129.99

Eagle Cranshaft
Cast Steel
3.480" stroke
2 peice rear seal
Item # 346-103503480 1 x $192.99

Edelbrock Intake Manifold
EGR
TBI
87+ heads
Item # 350-3704 1 x $219.99


i didnt include gaskets or install kits so dont mention that. thanks!

scottland

well one set of pistons you have won't work with 6" rods, they are made to work with 5.7" pistons, your missing all kinds of stuff.

oil pan,
oil pump,
bearings,
gaskets,
piston rings

CYLINDER HEADS!!!!

head gaskets
vavle covers

there are tons and tons more things you need.

cylinder heads are the most important and most expensive component of an engine.(well they should be the most expensive, if their not, you've spent too much money elsewhere)

once again, DON'T build your first engine out of a jegs catalog.

jegs/summit mainly sell RACE parts

and if you need to stay emissions legal, you don't need RACE parts.

and please, put your questions all in one post. because you have about 12!!!! posts on the tech board, just in the past 12 hours.

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

haha
I edited my first post to add the heads I want. I had chosen them, forgot to post them too!

but they are their now.

im not worrying about the oil accessories atm because they arent a big deal with fitting other items for now.

same with gaskets and bearings. I have chosen gaskets and bearings but also decided not the need to post them

also have valve covers picked out.

do you want me to post all that stuff too?

all im really asking for is to look over these current parts I have selected and see if they all work with each other. im not saying this is my final engine, just a base to work off of.

and the rods i chose are 6" but I will get the 5.7" rods instead depending which pistons i need

92 zzz28

What do you want for an engine? What size displacement? Here's a trick that will really help you. Find a local machine shop that is really good. Or travel to one if it is a reasonable distance. Talk to them about what you want to do. They will be able to get a kit together from a supplier or piece it together and it will all work. An engine is a system, it all needs to be considered when selecting parts. Mismatched engine parts lead to low performance and disappointed drivers...Just my .02$

Keep asking questions though, that way you can learn...

92 zzz28

Now about some of the stuff you selected:

If you use the rods on your list, get bushed, then use the second selection for pistons. Your compession ratio will be higher than I would go for with an iron head. Don't use self aligning rocker arms because the heads have guide plates. That is why they tell you to get heat treated pushrods. Don't use those Proform rockers, get some good ones. Make sure that the block is 2 piece rear seal. If you are buying a new block, I suggest finding on witht the 1 piece seal and a crank with a 1 piece seal.

Now you need a machine shop to balance the entire thing. Search around the internet and you can find companies that sell complete kits, balanced and ready to go with all the bearings and rings too. That would be your best bet. Make sure have the block thoroughly inspected before you buy it if it is used.

Have fun...

F-BIRD'88

One of the pistons is for a 3.75" stroke crank.

in this motor a 6" rod is a waste of money.
It will add nothing in power or reliability.

The Sportsman heads with their larger 200cc ports
are intended for a more radical higher rpm motor.
Find a high flow head with a port volume of 165 to 180cc's for best results.

Protopline iron lightnings, or Dart SS 165's
Edelbrock performer rpm or Trickflow G2 23deg heads.
would be a better choice. they match the cam and intake manifold better and flow just as good.
The money you save by staying with a 5.7" rod will pay for any difference.

The intake is inteneded for a late TBI/TPi head with angled center manifold bolts. (87+)
Sportsmans have the 55-86 intake manifold bolt pattern.

This engine is so mild ( camshaft rpm range) that these
aftermarket bottom end parts are kind of a waste.
You're building a much more expensive bottom end than you need.
Inspected, remachined stock GM parts are more than up to the task. (use ARP bolts).
A federal mogul Hypereutectic piston is more than enough piston. The new coated skirts are nice.
use a flat top piston with a 5.7" rod and 64cc heads.
for a 350based motor with a 3.48" stroke.

The proform rockers are questionable quality.
(Material and heat treating)
A really good budget stamped steel rocker with a roller tip thats cheap and practically bullet proof are the Crane or Elgin rockers. They are just a little more than the cheapy proforms but are well worth it.
The Crane rockers will not let you down.

thats big doe for a set of pushrods for a mild motor.

The Crane Blue Racers at $21 dollars are all youll ever need for this. chrome moly/ heat treated.

Pro-Mod pushrods will not last longer or make it faster.
You're over engineering some parts and them cheaping
out on others.
Like the rockers and pushrods.

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

keep in mind I have to pass cali smog laws with this too. so i doubt the edelbrocks would work

F-BIRD'88

Not a problem. Edelbrock has 50state legal performer heads with egr passages.
basicly the same as the rpm heads but with the heat risers.
Jegs #350-60909 64cc ready to rock.

Brodix makes a good legal street head too.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...=BRO%2D1031000

lots of choices

Note: many aftermarket heads require a .100" longer than stock pushrod.

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

ok so let me revise this, is this looking better?

** = 50-state legal
* = Not emmissions related

350 GM small block
Bore: 4.030"
(.030" over)
Item # xxx-xxx 1 x $50.00

** EdelBrock Products Heads
Performer
64cc straight plugs
(requires heat treated pushrods)
pushrods must be .100" longer
valve size: 2.020" x 1.600"
Item # 350-60909 2 x $978.98

** Proform Roller Rockers
STeel Tip
1.5 Ratio 3/8" stud
Item # 270-11806-16 1 x $179.99

* Eagle Crankshaft
Cast Steel
3.480" stroke
2 peice rear seal
Item # 356-103503480 1 x $192.99

* Eagle Rods
SIR
5.7" bushed
Item # 356-SIR5700BBLW 1 x $319.99

* Fed Mog Pistons
Flat Top hypereutectic
+.030"
64cc -9.35:1
Item # 844-H345NP30 8 x $135.92

* Crane Cams Camshaft
350 5-spd. w/3.73-up.
Adv. Duration: 272º/284º
Gross Lift: .454"/.480"
Item # 270-114142 1 x $154.99

Crane Cams Hydraulic Lifters
55-91 SB
Item # 270-99277-16 1 x $89.99

* Crane Cams Pushrods
Chrome moly 5/16"
7.900", +.100"
(Heat Treated)
Item # 270-95636-16 1 x $143.99

Edelbrock Intake Manifold
EGR
TBI
87+ heads
Item # 350-3704 1 x $219.99

92 zzz28

What do you want to do?

Do you want to build it yourself?

These are important questions...

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

yes im gonna build it myself

and I decided to go with the claimer pistons for extra compression.

350 GM small block
2 peice rear seal
Bore: 4.030"
(.030" over)
Item # xxx-xxx 1 x $50.00

** EdelBrock Products Heads
Performer
3/8" rocker stud
5/6" pushrod diam.
64cc straight plugs
(requires heat treated pushrods .100" longer)
int 170cc valve size 2.02"
exh 60cc valve size 1.60"
Item # 350-60909 2 x $978.98

** Proform Roller Rockers
STeel Tip
1.5 Ratio 3/8" stud
Item # 270-11806-16 1 x $179.99

* Eagle Crankshaft
Cast Steel
3.480" stroke
2 peice rear seal
Item # 356-103503480 1 x $192.99

* Eagle Rods
SIR
5.7" bushed
Item # 356-SIR5700BBLW 1 x $319.99

* Claimer Pistons
Flat Top hypereutectic
+.030"
64cc - 10.4:1
Item # 648-H3418.030 8 x $159.92

* Crane Cams Camshaft
350 5-spd. w/3.73-up.
Adv. Duration: 272º/284º
Gross Lift: .454"/.480"
Item # 270-114142 1 x $154.99

* Crane Cams Hydraulic Lifters
55-91 SB
Item # 270-99277-16 1 x $89.99

* Crane Cams Pushrods
Chrome moly 5/16"
7.900", +.100"
(Heat Treated)
Item # 270-95636-16 1 x $143.99

Edelbrock Intake Manifold
EGR
TBI
87+ heads
Item # 350-3704 1 x $219.99

the main question im asking here is, will these all work together, any room for improvement or do I have too much of something?

i want the 300hp/300tq minimum and pass cali smog laws.

scottland

I've given up trying to reason with you. you are spending 6x as much as you need to on pushrods, the roller rockers you have are of questionable quality. your forgetting about $500 worth of misc. parts. your spending almost twice as much on your rods as your crank. your forgetting all about the ignition system, and headers/exhaust.

for the love of all that is holy, let someone who knows what they are doing build you an engine.

what you have picked out is so half-hazardly slapped together. your wasting money in some places, and spending too little on others.

if you are ACTUALLY SERIOUS about an engine, and not just blowing smoke up all of our a**es then get some people on the phone at local machine shops, tell them what you are looking for (i.e. a SBC 350 that will make 300hp) and let them make suggestions on an engine.

or look into a crate motor. or a shortblock from somewhere.

unless you buy an engine build kit from summit, most of bottom end parts( rods, crank, pistons) you find in their catalogs are race parts. made for high horsepower engines.

you are not building a high horsepower engine, so spending so much money doesn't make any sense.

let someone with more experience do it for you. just learn from what they do. then maybe next time your ready to build a motor, you'll be able to do it.

i just bought a crate motor.

i know a fair amount of knowledge about mechanics and engines, but i just didn't quite feel 100% confident assembeling a short-block. So i let the pros take care of it for me, for little extra money.

I bought a vortec headed 350HO that makes 330hp and 380lb tq.

and other than the fact that the heads don't have EGR it would get through california emissions. You could simply hookup a corvette style EGR. or buy the shortblock for the same motor, and use emissions legal heads.

it takes the guess work out of it. Or have a machine shop build on for you.

just don't get in too far over your head.

its rather easy to do.

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

ive stated many times in this thread, ignore the prices, all I am asking is if these parts would work together and if they all looked smog legal. i am NOT making these my final parts whatsoever. and I've also stated ive left out miscelaneous parts on purpose such as valve covers, timing belt covers, gaskets, because those are simple. I've already got headers as well.

just give me an answer if those components will work together and thats all i would like to know. thanks

Streetiron85

-Scottland-
I'm with you on that, I tried talking him through this and helping him design a 350 that's compatible with all his emissions equipment. Then out of the blue he decides he wants a roots blower!!!
He doesn't like reading books.
What's gonna happen when he wants to swap his TBI for a TPI??

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

im keeping TBI and i trashed the blower idea.

Streetiron85

Good plan, trash the supercharger idea.
I don't want you thinking that I'm trying to give you a hard time or anything like that.
BUT...Here's The Thing; I'm from Cal. and I'm familiar with what you're up against. And I could explain most of it to you, but not in a post. That's howcome I told you earlier to call a smog ref.
It seems like you mentioned in an earlier post that you have $5000 budgeted for this project.
And you're about to invest that into a TBI motor. Which is something that you would look back upon as being a mistake, the TBI being the least desirable of all the EFI systems. When you could be swapping an LT1 engine into your car for that price, which is probably the most desirable EFI system as far as CARB approved systems go.
Browse through the parts catalogs all you want to, but before you spend a dime, Do yourself a huge favor take a look at the Engine Swap forum. And do some searches under the LT1 heading.
If I were in your place LT1 is what I'd be thinking.
The reason I'm not doing it is:
a) I don't have enough $$ for a new engine
b) Mine came with a TPI anyhow
c) I have a garage full of parts waiting to be used.

LT1 is the direction I'm moving in tho, it's just 1 piece at a time for me.

Good Luck

FstBrd6point3

Go with the 6.0" rods, they make noticably more power