I forgot to mention that this car is a 86 Iroc carb., i installed new cam, lifters, and timing chain. Car started right up to break in cam, the next day it wouldn't, but did eventually to stall out. I then bought a new distributor and coil. Still nothing, I have spark and gas, what could possibly be the problem.

 

Mark,

You have ignition, you have fuel. The only other things you need are compression and the correct valve and ignition timing.

Compression can be lost if the lifters aren't properly adjusted and are holding the valves open slightly. Timing can be a problem if the timing chain has slipped or if the distributor has been disturbed.

Do you get even a "pop" or backfire?

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Later,
Vader
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"I cannot take this any more... Saying everything I've said before..."
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KaleCo Auto Parts

 

i say u need to manually reset the timing by bringing the #1 piston up to top dead center on the compression stroke and take ou the distributor and re-stab it, and put the balancer on 0 degrees and it'll start right up it just sounds to nuch like the timing, its possible when changing cams! really possible especially on sbc's. just set the timing and go from there if thats not it let me know my email is :: burnoutrpm@hotmail.com

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1989 firebird formula

Mods: converted from T.B.I. to a carburator 305 to a 350. Flowmater exhaust,hedman shortie hedders,202 heads,350 horse cam,bored.40 over, Edlebrock torker2 intake.

Future mods performer rpm air gap intake (polished) and 600 edlebrock carb, comp roller cam, and way better headsa 400 defintely in the works!

 

Well, we checked the compression and it is at 88, which i know is low, i had the valves readjusted again and still nothing, and we have taken the dist. out about 4 times and the timing if fine. while adjusting the valves i did have a back fire but that was it. any other ideas

 

Maybe your ECM? Or some stupid little sensor sending it crappy info?

 

Mark,

If you have a timing light, you can try to adjust the base timing while cranking the engine to make sure that it is at least close to the correct spec. You can leave teh EST bypass connector loose to cause the spark to retard a bit, which generally allows a little easier starting.

Do you have a large vacuum leak, by any chance?

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Later,
Vader
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"I cannot take this any more... Saying everything I've said before..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
KaleCo Auto Parts

 

You don't think his spark plugs are foulded ?
You should drop a couple out, it you havn't already done so.
Sometimes starter fluid will wake it up.

Ron


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'82 Trans Am
'81 Camaro Z-28
'94 Vette LT1 Coupe

 

We have already tried starter fluid. There is no vacuum pressure what so ever. Could that be due to valves being too tight. Tomorrow I am having a guy come over and readjust the valves. The lifters weren't pumped up when the motor first started maybe now they are pumped and tightened the valves too much.

 

Mark,

That's why I mentioned the lifter adjustment before. It's possible the low compression and no-start are caused by a tight valve or two. Your analysis of the lifters pumping up might be right on the mark. If you installed a new flat-tappet cam, the lifters might have been contaminated and stuck by the molybdenum in the cam break-in grease. Backing off the valves might be just the ticket, then readjusting once it's running and warmed up.

Incidentally, a higher lift cam often requires a slightly loose lash setting. Instead of 3/4-1 full turn on the nuts after the zero-lash point, try a 1/2-3/4 turn as a maximum.

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Later,
Vader
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"I cannot take this any more... Saying everything I've said before..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
KaleCo Auto Parts

 

Thanks, well the cam is a hydraulic 2 steps up from stock, but we did readjust them today at 3/4 turn maybe we'll try what you said less of a turn.

 

And this is how I got my 350.

 

Cool 'Mark', a walk down memory lane

Ron