So the question is can I get these springs to work for me?

I know the diameter is to big for the heads. I got a friend who can work the heads.

Another thing is what is the normal spring install height on these heads? I read a few posts and understod that the exhaust socket is lower than the intake. true?

I'm gonna have the heads machined anyway cause i'm getting arp studs and guideplates. Roller rockers are also on the shopping list.

Here's a little info about the springs:
(spring p/n: 330585)
This dual valve spring is recommended for competition camshafts with .560" maximum valve lift. It produces 140 pounds seat pressure at an installed height of 1.75". Technical Notes: This spring is 1.379" in diameter. Spring pockets on V6/60º cylinder heads must be machined to fit this spring. Umbrella-type valve stem seals are recommended. Use with aluminum valve spring retainer P/N 330586

the reason for i want to use them is that i got them pretty cheap off a friend. And i'm on a budget anyway. The machine work is also free so i have basicly nothing to lose.

Other key words here are 383 and stealth-ram.
haven't yet chosen a cam.

 

you can machine the spring seats out for any size springs, so with machining any spring will work. there is no installed height for a head it's for the spring and depends on the spring you're using. if you don't have a cam yet how do you know what springs to use, other than they're free. match the springs to your cam.

 

I know it's important to use the right spiring with the right cam. But how important is it? Will it have radical affect on the combo?

Im going with dual spring cause i really don't want valve flot at 6000-6500rpms. Don't know if i wanna go higher. I'm gonna use studs instead of main bolts. Although the block is 2 bolt with good ballancing and parts it should stand the near 7krpms.

I think my heads are gonna choke the engine but then again i don't have the $1500 for a good set of heads yet.

How do i measure the install height? Is it just the leaght between the spring seat and retainer? It would be easier if i knew how much i need to have the heads machined. (Thease spirings are about 3-4mm higher than stock spirings.)

Does anybody know what's the stock spring height on 416 heads? With original valves ect.??

It's alittle hard to get good info around this corner of the world. Oppinnions change so much.

 

your on a budget but you have a HSR? never heard those 2 things used in the same sentence. haha you think your on a budget.. I live around a sharp turn and the only place to park my car is in the street.. about 6 months ago someone hit it with a gmc yukon according to the piece of the front blinker assembly I found (hit and run).. not too bad but I don't have full coverage (due to be only being 21 and having 2 points on my license it would be 13 grand a year in NJ for me..) so I'm stuck with the damage.. it's not that bad all they really did was rip the nose off broke the headlight bar, fender and dented the door... I have all the body parts now finally.. but the cars gonna be nothin but spray primer from now on since I really dont have another 1500 to get it painted again

 

Well the HSR is cheap if you start thinking about injection systems.

I mean the intake is 320€ (over here) and ecu around 600€. Injectors you can get used. I bought a used tpi fuel pump for 20€ (dont know if i'm gonna use it). The block was around 250e (with pistons and forged rods). Fuel-rails would cost 270e with a regulator but i'm gonna borrow them from a friend. Then another friend will machine me ones from aluminum. cost max 40e Fuel-lines i can make my self. I still need to find a used tpi throttle body. Thats about 100€.. if you compare to the price of the system, yeah the engine is cheap. I'll have to use stock rockers for a few months until i can save up for the rr's. oh yea, the heads are ported to the max. I'm gonna have them flowed to see if i can use em. Heads were 170€ a pair complete.

In Finland we have law that won't let me carb the car (you can convert carb to efi but not the other way around.)
Not that i ever wanted to but that would be a good way to make power cheap

- - just had to correct some of the typos - -

 

you need to match the springs to the cam, wrong springs can trash the cam, float the valves, and just about any other problem you can think of related to the springs. most i've ever spent on springs was under 150 dollars and most are in the 100 dollar range so it isn't going to be the most expensive part in the engine.

 

yeah i understand the idea around matching cam and spring.. too though spring would trash the cam and too mild spring would float the valves.

Is there any way of knowing which cam likes which springs??
Or what are the max seat presures ect.. I know the valve won't defenetly float with these springs.

 

the cam ought to have spring specs or a recommended spring to match it