dans82bird

can someone help me here, i took out all the computer stuff, got a edelbrock manifold and carb, how do i set up all the vacuum routing and stuff?

stingerssx

What components do you still have that require vaccum, besides your brakes?

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'82 Firebird, dead stock, 9 bolt disc rear, over 200,000 miles and still going strong, more to come...
http://www.spinfrenzy.com/stingerssx...easures.html#4

dans82bird

i guess i could say the distributor, and soon the tranny lockup as i removed the computer

Vader

Dan,

Is there an EGR? Vacuum advance on the distributor? A.I.R. system? Power brakes? EFE/preheat on the air cleaner? Heat riser valve on the exhaust manifold? Heat/Defrost/Air conditioning? EVAP canister?

A little more info, like model and year might help, too. I might have a generic routing diagram for a carbed vehicle.

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Later,
Vader
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dans82bird

82 firebird 305 LG4... came with that computerized carb and distributor, here in fl, we dont have emissions anymore so im taking all the emissions stuff out, i got my new manifold and carb (edelbrock performer manifold and 600cfm carb, soon a new cam) i dont want to run any emisisons stuff, i dont really know how the vacuum routing is setup, or shall i say should be =]

oh yeah... vacuum advance distrib.
thanks

[This message has been edited by dans82bird (edited January 26, 2001).]

Vader

Dan,

You'll want to connect the distributor vacuum port to a timed vacuum port on the carb. Holley usually has at least one timed port on the right side of the primary metering block or just behind it. If your distributor has an advance AND retard vacuum set on the advance unit, you'll need a manifold vacuum source on the retard (inboard) side of the unit.

You'll want to connect the PCV line directly to a manifold vacuum source (unless you want to change your oil every weekend). Usually there is an appropriate line at the base of the carb for the PCV line, and that's the best place to put it so the mixture is thoroughly diluted by the time it gets to the cylinders.

The HVAC control needs a straight manifold vacuum source as well, but it can be as small as a 3/16" line.

The power brake booster needs full manifold vacuum through a 3/8" hose. The check valve for the brake booster should be right at the vacuum reservoir for the brakes, so all you need is a hose. A good place to get brake vacuum is at the intake instead of the carb.

If you don't use an EVAP canister, you'll have to use a pressure relief valve on the fuel tank. If you do decide to use the EVAP, you'll need to tap another timed port at the carburetor. I'm guessing that there won't be an EGR, nor an A.I.R. system, so those are out. If they were there, the same timed source could be used for both of those.

Many older 305s had a heat riser valve in the right exhaust manifold, and if you want it to operate fully, you'll need a TVS and full manifold vacuum source for it. If you don't connect a 1/4" vacuum line, the valve will stay fully open. The only problem is that it might take a bit longer for the engine to warm up, but tha's probably not a huge issue in Florida.

I'll try to find a diagram, but that should cover it.

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Later,
Vader
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[This message has been edited by Vader (edited January 26, 2001).]

Vader

Dan,

This is what you should have started with:



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Vader
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Vader

Dan,

This is a view of my POS Holley and a couple of the lines (distributor and PCV) from the right side.



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Vader
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Bort62

Vader, you mention TWo things in that postthat brought Questions to My Mind.

And

I am Currently Running No PCV on my De-Computerized Lg4. Mostly Out of Not having the Appropriately sized Tubing at My Disposal and lazyness. What Disadvantage am I Incurring By Doing this ?

I just Have both baffled Valve Cover Holes Sitting open ( lazy, again ) And the PCV vaccum Source On the Carb PLugged.

Secondly, When i removed my EVAP, I used a Vaccum Cap to Close off the Return Line to the tank, Was this in error ? Please enlighten me. I occasionally Smell Gas ( ver occasionally)while driving And had often wonderd if this was related.

Thank You vader, I would Respond to dans82, But Vader pretty much coverd it.




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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver

Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype

Vader

Bort,

Operating an engine in daily driving creates moisture in the crankcase. The rings on even a brand new engine don't seal perfectly, and some combustion gasses will blow into the crankcase. Additionally, normal aspiration of the crankcase from heating and cooling will cause a little atmosphereic air to enter the crankcase. This is not enough to ventilate the case, but will add to the moisture level. As the engine cools, the moisture condenses, mixes with the combustion byproducts and hot oil vapors to create an emulsification of oil, water, unburned gasoline, nitrides, and sulfur in the sump. This can be seen in extreme cases as a milky appearance of the oil on the dipstick.

There are several disadvantages to having the sludge-mix in the sump. The oil mixture no longer lubricates properly. The mixture of chemicals coupled with the heating and cooling can create acids, like mild nitric and sulfuric acids. These can attack the soft material lining of crankshaft, rod, and camshaft bearings, as well as the iron itself, but more slowly. The sludge tends to dry up every time the engine is started and allowed to warm up, creating deposits in the sump and case drainbacks. All of these elements can damage your engine by causing poor lubrication, etched bearings, and restricted oil flow/drainback in the engine.

A PCV system forces air to flow through the case, ventilating all the moisture, combustion gasses, and oil vapors. Before there were PCV systems, most cars had draft tubes that hung down along the side of the block to use air movement around the vehicle to help ventilate the crankcase. Engine manufacturers have understood the dangers of acid formation in the sump since the '40s and '50s, when draft tubes first appeared. The PCV system was introduced in the '60s because the road draft tubes not only allowed the crankcase gasses to vent directly to the atmosphere, but just weren't that effective at clearing out comtaminants unless the car was moving at highway speeds. City driving was almost as bad for the situation as having no crankcase ventilation at all.

Oddly, by the late '60s, changing rings and bearings in an engine became the exception rather than the rule. Before then, an engine that survived for 80,000 miles needed new or reground valves, rings, and bearings to keep going. Now we easily drive double that distance and don't give it a second thought.

The PCV system only "leaks" a little vacuum from the intake, and all fuel systems have been designed to compensate for this slight mixture dilution on cars produced since the '60s.

Since it really costs no power loss, I have always failed to understand why anyone would want to abandon the PCV system in favor of a 1930's philosophy that literally eats the engine from the inside out. So as I said, you can change you oil every weekend to stay ahead of the acid formation, or install a PCV valve and hose. Don't forget the breather.

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Later,
Vader
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Bort62

Very informative Vader, I will re instate my PCV this weekend.

Thanks For the Help.


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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver

Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype