Anyone happen to know the exact resistor values (all 15) for the VATS system? Thanks ahead of time. - John '89 L98

 

Due to complaints by some individuals, the Vats values have been deleted.

Sorry to those I offended. I will not comment further.

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KevinP92Z
92 Z28 383 SLP cam,SLP headers,SLP 2ontheLeft,Trick Flow TW heads & pistons,Edelbrock base,Accel SuperRam,52mmTB,Scat Crank & forged ConnRods,MSD 6AL,SLP convertor,Baer 13/12" Track,Moser axles,Hotchkis,Genuine GM 3.42s,SLP HD Torsen,17x9" chrome SS rims
96T/A w/SLP Ram Air,SLP 2ontheLeft, Bilsteins, Baer, Hotchkis, Genuine GM, Torsen
76 4X4 Blazer 400TPI project

[This message has been edited by KevinP92Z (edited February 02, 2001).]

 

Cool, thanks a bunch. - John '89 L98

 

Umm, is this the kind of info we want available to the general public...i.e. wannabe thieves. Granted anyone smart/fast enough to use these values would be able to find them anyway, but do we want to make this info accessible to just anybody making their lives and dirty work easier. Maybe we should keep this to email, and only to people we know.
Anybody else feel the same way?
...ed

 

Interesting... I'm assuming to check it that all you need to do is put an ohm meter acrss the resistor in the key, mine showed a number that was close but not within the 1% tolerance of any of the values. Did they change with the years perhaps?

Also, if you were to get a custom chip and wanted VATS to be enabled, would you just need to supply the programmer with the correct value?

 

No. The VATS module is what reads the Pellet's resistance, not the ECM.

 

I feel the same way, Ed. I also can't beleive that there are only 15 different resistor values .

Joe
89 IROC 350TPI

 

Hmmm. I'm confused then, and obviously need to do some reading on the subject. Why is then when I read ads for custom chips they say it will pass VATS? Does the VATS module read the value off the key, then pass it along to the ECM which must match a stored value? I'm just guessing. If I'm wrong, can you briefly explain? Thanks

 

Ed, Sorry, didn't mean to worry anybody. In the future, I'll only partake in this information exchange as you suggested.

But this has been common knowledge for years, and has come up on nearly every GM board I've ever seen. Besides, people can read their keys or .... This has been deleted .........code they have.

Additionally, ... This has been deleted as well.

Dana, the VATS module is what "learns" the value on first power up, then reads it from then on out. If there's no match, then ecm doesn't get the "handshake" signal.



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KevinP92Z
92 Z28 383 SLP cam,SLP headers,SLP 2ontheLeft,Trick Flow TW heads & pistons,Edelbrock base,Accel SuperRam,52mmTB,Scat Crank & forged ConnRods,MSD 6AL,SLP convertor,Baer 13/12" Track,Moser axles,Hotchkis,Genuine GM 3.42s,SLP HD Torsen,17x9" chrome SS rims
96T/A w/SLP Ram Air,SLP 2ontheLeft, Bilsteins, Baer, Hotchkis, Genuine GM, Torsen
76 4X4 Blazer 400TPI project

[This message has been edited by KevinP92Z (edited February 02, 2001).]

 

Now that's what should scare you. Anyone with VATS and actually looked at the connector knows there's just a tiny plug-in connector leading to the column. With plug-in VATS bypasser sets it could not get any easier to drive away with your car. Heck, I'm pretty sure some knowledgeable Vette thief has ordered OEM VATS connectors and soldered all 15 resistors in them already, knowing dam well all that stops him is a 4 minute gap and removing one panel covering the column.

 

Heck I'm glad someone finally posted the resistor values. I have VATS on my car, and so far the only thing it's done for me is screw me out of driving my own car several times! The other thing I'd like to see posted one of these days is where that damn VATS module is located. Never been able to find that damn thing!

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89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."

 

Thanks Kevin for your revised answer.

And I agree, that there should be either a "ban" or a "gentleman's agreement" that VATS should not be discussed, including the PROM board.

Let's not make it any easier for "scum-suckers" to steal our cars.

[This message has been edited by Glenn91L98GTA (edited February 02, 2001).]

 

Well, it was certainly never my intention to cause such a big deal. I honestly thought it was common knowledge. I only asked because I lost my copy of the values during my recent move. I guess I'll have to be more careful next time. And Kevin, thanks for the values anyway. I appreciate it. - John '89 L98

 

That's all well and good Glenn, but I have a car that I haven't been able to work on for a long time because I don't have the VATS codes. Of which no one was willing or able to give me. So you'd rather just not discuss it and continue to let legitimate car owners suffer. This is the same idea as computer software copy protection. It only hurts legitimate users.

 

Glenn,

I don't mean to burst you bubble of "security", but if I wanted to steal your car, I wouldn't mess with the VATS at all. I'd bring two six-foot jumpers with alligator clips and drive it away. (Don't get TOO detailed, Bernie.) Anyone on the PROM board or anyone else who understands the ECM already knows how to defeat it and get fuel pulses.

The VATS codes are listed numerous times in the archives, and on hundreds of other pages on the web. If they don't find it here, they'll get it somewhere else ten seconds later.

If it helps someone get their car running, I'm for providing the information. the casual thief will still be stopped by the VATS, and most casual thieves don't even understand resistors. The serious thief will get ANY car with ANY alarm, locker, disabler, line lock, etc. Don't fool yourself. Remember "The Club"? Ask the rental dealer in Virginia who found all of his sitting on top of his cars one morning about their effectiveness. The new one advertised on late night infomercials offered by some former Cali-cops is similar. It "guarantees" that it can't be removed or cut, but Stanley makes a pocket hacksaw and diamond grit blade that eats it in about twenty seconds, if you take a five second break halfway through. I'll "guarantee" that every serious thief already has one in his arsenal. It can fold and fit in your coat pocket completely undetected. I can buy you one at my local hardware store if you want one, if you send me about fifteen bucks. (They're also listed on their web site.)

Any security device is merely a challenge to the serious booster, just like software security systems are a challenge to hackers. VATS is (WAS) no exception.

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Later,
Vader
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"Make Me Bad..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

Yes Vader, and I too can steal virtually any GM car in less than 5 minutes too. But in all decency to other 3rd gen owners (an my extreme hatred to scum sucking thieves) I will not discuss ANY thing regarding the security system. We do not have to make it any easier than it already is.

The lower Mainland of BC is a hot bed for car thieves because of our lax laws in dealing with these creeps. I have already had 2 attempts on my car (VATS did beat them), but I would say at least 1 out of my 4 friends with nice cars have not been so lucky.

Sorry, but I don't believe anything regarding the security system should be discussed publicly and I personally refuse to participate. I believe a private message via e-mail is a more appropriate way to handle this.

And if a person cannot find anyone to help them, they should take it to the dealership. Sorry, don't make YOUR problem MY problem.

 

Geesh. Somebody always has to play "chicken little". VATS works great to prevent the common punk from taking our babies for a destructive joyride. But I have to agree with Vader. If a serious car thief really wants your car bad enough, all he has to do is winch it up on a flatbed tow truck and drive off with it anyways. The pass key system has been around so many years now, they probably have a bazillion other ways around it too by now. The only thing my VATS system has accomplished so far was forcing me, the owner, to have to tear the whole damn upper steering column apart at a truck stop so I could repair the stupid little wires that always break at the ignition cylinder. What I did was remove the VATS cylinder and wiring from the column and put it up underneath the driver's side of the dash with the original key stuck in it and plugged it back in at the base of the column, then I installed a standard lock cylinder in the column(they fit just the same in a VATS column and only cost about $12 instead of $50 for a new VATS cylinder). Now whenever I want to enable the anti-theft, all I have to do is reach up under the dash and pull the key out. I'll never have to worry about it breaking again because the wires don't rotate with the ignition cylinder when I start it now, and the key will probably never wear out either because I rarely remove it from the cylinder anymore. Just thought I'd give my .02 on improving the system if you still want to have it on your car!

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89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."

 

Check this out!
www.thirdgen.org/oldarchives/board1/messages/283.html


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84 Camaro ZZ4 with HOT cam. 1.88 60' (12.98 @ 105MPH E.T.)
Other Mods: You name it and I have probably changed it.

2001 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 5.9L 4*2

ASE Certified Auto Tech
LIVE AND DIE BY THE ALMIGHTY BOWTIE!

[This message has been edited by CamaroMike (edited February 03, 2001).]

 

Well Pat, the amazing statistic where I live is that over 80% of all car thieves ARE those stupid little punks that just want to take your car for a joy ride.

To everyone that thinks that it is perfectly fine to discuss this on the internet:

If you want to increase the number of people that can steal your car 5 times, go right ahead. Just don't make it so all the other people with VATS are affected by you lack of discretion. I personally can't see what the hang up or difficulty is with just being courteous to others and giving the "answer" via a private e-mail instead of broadcasting it to the whole world?

"Hey world, do you want to know how to steal (insert your name)'s car? I will make it so you don't even need a tow truck to pick it up and ****** it; and you'll be off and running in only a couple minutes...SURE FIRE AND GUARANTEED!" How does this make your feel? That's exactly what you are doing to me.

Sorry, but I will not respond to this stupid and inconsiderate thread again. Rationalize it and justify it all you want, but that's all you've done: rationalized it and justified it. It still does not give you the right to broadcast this information to the whole damn world and affect EVERYONE else.

But please don't expect any sympathy from me if your car gets ripped off. I'll probably throw a link of this thread back at you.

Good day.

[This message has been edited by Glenn91L98GTA (edited February 03, 2001).]

 

Well, I've been pretty quiet on this subject, but what I'd like to say is. If you guys what to discuss stuff like this, and share key values and stuff, please use some discretion, and do it via e-mail!

Also What I'd like to know is, CamaroMike why on earth would you even think of bringing that page up again.. I personally think it should be deleted from the archives.. even if alot of people know how to break into our cars, we don't need to provide info to remind them.

This is the extent of my involment in this thread, So please share your security ideas
via e-mail. Thanks


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89 RS Camaro, 305 TBI
Currently All Stock


[This message has been edited by FastElectrics (edited February 03, 2001).]

 

Right. Do you have any idea what a dealership charges for this? I'll give you a hint: it's a lot more than it costs me to buy two potentiometers and do it myself, which is what I'm doing right now, thanks to the original poster who listed the values. Thankfully I got them before they were erased.

A bulletin board like this exists to help people, not to tell them "go to the dealer and bring the vaseline".

 

ok sounds good to me VATS isn't discussed here

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ICON Motorsports

1st & 3rd