if its my trans im gonna be pissed because i just got it rebuilt by aamco in july. luckily i still have the paper that says i have a 12 month warranty.

or is it my clutch? it doesnt slip at all its about 2 years old.

anyone know whats going on?

EDIT: btw, its a 92 Z28 305 5-speed. it has the world class trans.


[This message has been edited by 305-Jive (edited January 31, 2001).]

 

Same damn thing happens to me! I come to a stop and can't get it back into first with out wiggleing it forever..then it goes fine. It's very very annoying..what does wiggleing the shifter do?

------------------
-Red '88 IROC 5 Speed 305 TPI w/3.08
-Dual Friction Centerforce Clutch
-Accel 300+ Racing Ignition
-Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
-Accel U-Groove Plugs
-Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
-Hypertech Chip
-Hypertech Airfoil
-Removed, Then Re-installed (out of fear) MAF Screens
-Gutted Air Box
-Best E/T 14.686, 60' 2.205, 1/8th mile 9.461, 1/4 MPH 93.91
-Best 60' 2.17

 

I experienced the same thing. It ended up being my clutch. It could also be your synchros

------------------
91 Formula
305 TPI 5speed
1LE/G92/WS6
w/GTA gfx,rims,hood

Paxton 10lb blower, SLP airfoil, ported/polished plenum, March pulleys, Crane AFPR(43psi),Crane Gold 1.6rrs,MSD coil,MSD6AL, Holley 9mm wires, fastchip, Bosch O2sensor, SLP headers & catback,short shifter,3:73s w/Auburn posi,160* t-stat,JET 195* fan switch, Macewen white face gauges, Autometer gauges, Zoom hi-performance clutch.

[This message has been edited by theformula (edited January 31, 2001).]

 

this is bs i dont think its my clutch because it never slips. im going to kill those fools at aamco.

could there be another possiblity??? Vader... GMTech... HELP!!

 

There is a possibility that the clutch is working too well. I don't know if third-gens have hydraulic clutches or mechanical, but it's possible that the clutch is not getting 100% disengaged. If this is true...then all the bits and pieces could be turning just a little on the inside. In that case, you might have a problem getting it into it's lowest gears.... first and reverse would most obvious offenders.

but I could be wrong. It's more a guess than anything else.

 

so what should i tell the guys at aamco?

 

Yes yes yes! I think my clutch is working too well. I like thinking of it in that manner..How does one correct this problem? I cant ever get it in to first but I can get it into other gears. What harm am I doing by forcing it into gear when I don't have the time to ease it in by wiggleing the shifter for 3 minutes? When I try and put it in revers it always grinds unless I first put it in first. Help!

------------------
-Red '88 IROC 5 Speed 305 TPI w/3.08
-Dual Friction Centerforce Clutch
-Accel 300+ Racing Ignition
-Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
-Accel U-Groove Plugs
-Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
-Hypertech Chip
-Hypertech Airfoil
-Removed, Then Re-installed (out of fear) MAF Screens
-Gutted Air Box
-Best E/T 14.686, 60' 2.205, 1/8th mile 9.461, 1/4 MPH 93.91
-Best 60' 2.17

 

Perhaps your clutch is not realesing all the way. Mine did the same thing to me. Once you got it in first it was fine. I had to adjust my cluch linkage so it would realeas all the way.

------------------
82 Camaro Z28
35 w/4 bolt mains
9.5:1 comppresion
heavily ported 882 heads
gasket matched Torker intake Edelbock Performer 750 carb
Speed pro cam 222 @.05 .447 lift
headers with straight pipes
Borg Warner T-10
Posi

Another 82 Camaro Z28
Black w/silver racing stripes
355
Edelbrock Performer intake and 750 carb
4 bolt mains
69 camaro heads 64cc
9:1 compression
TH-350 w/stage 2 shift kit
275/60R15 out back
205/60R15 front

 

I have the linkage adjusted so that the Hex bolt is screwed ALL the way in. This way the clutch only grabs at the very very top and I can shift faster. Is it possible that I have it adjusted too far? It seems like the father in, the less likely it would fail to release but there have been instances where I have been wrong..

------------------
-Red '88 IROC 5 Speed 305 TPI w/3.08
-Dual Friction Centerforce Clutch
-Accel 300+ Racing Ignition
-Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
-Accel U-Groove Plugs
-Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
-Hypertech Chip
-Hypertech Airfoil
-Removed, Then Re-installed (out of fear) MAF Screens
-Gutted Air Box
-Best E/T 14.686, 60' 2.205, 1/8th mile 9.461, 1/4 MPH 93.91
-Best 60' 2.17

 

About the grinding in reverse until you go into first......my uncle told me (unsure where he got the info, but when it comes to Chevy's I'd trust him ANYDAY) that on the older standards it was designed to be put into 1st before reverse for some reason. You don't HAVE to, but it eliminates the grinding. My Blazer even did that.

------------------
92 Bird 3.1L Auto
Best $750 I ever spent....
DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT!
Kills:
93 Mustang LX (Before Mods)
98 or 99 Dodge Stratus (tough one, edged out at 40)
92 Camaro RS 305 TPI
Close Calls
94 Grand Am 3.1 V6
92 Cavalier 3.1 V6
01 Porsche 911 Turbo (Had em till first gear)
Mods-Jet Stage 2 Performance Chip, Accel Cap/Rotor, Accel 8.8 MM Wires, Accell Coil, AC Delco Rapidfire Plugs, Dynomax Catback, K&N
AIM name OVRCLCK350

 

Really.. I wasn't aware of this. It's an '88 World Class..I have a problem believing that though..can you imagine someone test driving that? "No it's not broken sir, It's just gay stock.." I guess it could be though..I thought it had something to with the flywheel still spinning..You very well could be right though..

------------------

• Red '88 IROC 5 Speed 305 TPI w/3.08
• Dual Friction Centerforce Clutch
• Accel 300+ Racing Ignition
• Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
• Accel U-Groove Plugs
• Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
• Hypertech Chip
• Hypertech Airfoil
• Removed, Then Re-installed (out of fear) MAF Screens
• Gutted Air Box
• Best E/T 14.686, 60' 2.205, 1/8th mile 9.461, 1/4 MPH 93.91
• Best 60' 2.17

 

ummm, well since your car is an 88 yarn, you have a hydralic clutch hence no linkage per say. anyways, the "hex" adjustment is the ballstud, which really isn't adjustable. the ballstud should be as tight as you can get it. besides, screwing it in would HELP disengage the clutch not hinder it. i have made the mistake myself of thinking the ballstud was there for adjustment.

here is a few things to look at:
1)ballstud tight
2)bled slave cylinder
3)bad pressure plate
4)BENT CLUTCH FORK!!!!!! which is notorious for fbodys...get a heavy duty one from summit or jegs since it is cheaper then getting one from napa, atleast for me anyways.

the bend wont be noticeable unless you compare it to a new clutch fork, it doesn't take much!

------------------
87 iroc-z 355 TPI 5 spd. 51006 SLP cam adv. 4* (106.5* centerline)
hypertech stage II chip/ 160* stat./ Airfoil, accel AFPR
19# injectors, ported plenum and runners. 9.8:1 compression
stock heads, pocket ported, 1.94 int., unshrouded.
stock exhaust manifolds and y pipe! hopefully soon to change
3.45 rear (stock)
Flowmaster, K&N w/ hacked airbox/removed MAF screens
14.38@100mph 2.2 60'

 

I see..hmm..I don't think the hex is loose at all..I loctited the ufck outta it. How mch of a pain is it to replace the fork? If I am gonna drop the tranny I might as well change the leaking main seal..thanks alot for the help dude..

------------------

• Red '88 IROC 5 Speed 305 TPI w/3.08
• Dual Friction Centerforce Clutch
• Accel 300+ Racing Ignition
• Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
• Accel U-Groove Plugs
• Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
• Hypertech Chip
• Hypertech Airfoil
• Removed, Then Re-installed (out of fear) MAF Screens
• Gutted Air Box
• Best E/T 14.686, 60' 2.205, 1/8th mile 9.461, 1/4 MPH 93.91
• Best 60' 2.17

 

hey yarn, the fork slides out all nice and easy from the bellhousing . loctite...forgot to mention that but seems you are on top of that already. as for the mainseal, that should be easy as well, getting to it is the hard part. guess you can use your $100 mod money for other go faster stuff now

 

anyone got a part number from summit for the heavy duty fork ??

 

seems my summit catalogue is missing but i did find the jegs. 620-15500 part # for gm heavy duty replacement clutch fork.

 

My trasmission does it on my 86Z does the same thing it gets stuck when trying to go into first and i let the clutch back out and put it back in then it goes into first.also i put just put it in reverse it grinds if i put into second then reverse it doesn't grind
also sometimes when i am driving if i shift from 3rd to 4th sometimes it grinds a little bit. i heard that it is the syncros.

 

I was always told to shift into 2nd, then up to 1st. something about the synchros being on the same part of the H pattern. Also works good 4 me when going into reverse [worn synchro] i just shift to 5th and then reverse, no grinding.

------------------
--Steve S--
1984 Trans Am 305 LG4, 5 speed
RPO codes point to Recaro version
Daily Driver, Flowmaster 80 Series

 

Always engage a forward gear before entering reverse. It doesn't really matter what gear it is, as long as it's a forward gear. There are no synchro clutches on the reverse gearing. Engaging a forward gear forces the mainshaft to come to a complete stop. Once the mainshaft is completely stopped, the reverse idler is allowed to engage the mainshaft and reverse gear while they are at rest. Oil friction and inertia will keep the mainshaft turning a bit even after the clutch is released, and trying to enter a gear without synchros to a moving mainshaft/gear will cause the "grinding".

------------------
Later,
Vader
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"Make Me Bad..."
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