I am doing this with the heads off the motor btw. How hard is to replace the seals? where do I get new seals and how do I put them in?

my heads have 115k on them but the seals never leaked much.. they must be ready to die though!

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1987 Formula 350, headman hedders, Accel supercoil, cap, rotor.
MAF screens removed. 160 degree stat and manual fan switch.

Best ET: 14.745@91.317mph-Stock
Best ET: 14.418@95.51 mph-Modded
Ridiculed Founder of the Traction Impaired Crew

 

Check out this site, there's a quickie "howto" for seals

http://www.racer-x.f2s.com/

-Rich

 

Yes, for sure replace your valve seals, the factory ones are usually shot after about 40K miles. Its not too hard, that link should show you how. Also remember to clean up your valves and get all that carbon built-up off of them.

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1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission
Borg Warner 7.75" 9 Bolt Rear End

Current Mods: LT4 Hot Cam, Comp Cams 1.52:1 Roller Rocker Arms, Edelbrock TES 1 5/8" Headers, Hooker 3" Aerochamber Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip, Accel Ignition Coil, Cap, Rotor, 8.8mm Wires, K&N Filters, JET TPI Air Foil, All Free Mods, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.

Best ET (w/o LT4 cam): 14.32 @ 97.7mph
(corrected for elevation)

7.5" 10 Bolt with 3.42s soon to come!

 

rhawki, link doesn't work..

 

I like to use the positive type seals on both the intake and exhaust. I normally run the Crane seals though most are the same. They are rubber cups with a metal clip around them.. not to be confused with the umbrella type which I feel are junk.
Standard is to use positive on intake and umbrella on exhaust, but as I said I use positive on both with great results.
good luck
ODB

 

Yes you should, definitely.

It's very little extra labor if your heads ar ealready cut for the positive type seals, which are the best ones to use. They jam down onto the guide and fit the valve stem very tightly, which positively seals the valve stem. I prefer the Teflon ones which are like a sleeve with a squeeze-type hose clamp around them. Comp and Crane both sell them, andd others may too, in sets of 16. One or both of those companies also sells a cutter that goes in a drill if you need one. They come in 2 std sizes, .500" and .530" for different sizes of guide bosses; you should measure your guides before you buy anything.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

it's not even a option, replace the seals. i too use both seals with no problems.

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ICON Motorsports

1st & 3rd

 

errr.. I really need installation instructions, does anyone have a walkthrough with pictures? (I'm not dumb, I'm mechanically up to this, but I've never done it b4)
I wasn't planning on my heads spending any time at the machine shop, maybe I should just have them replace the valve seals. I did get a friend to offer to let me use his valve polishing stuff to clean up my valves though..

 

I guess I can't make this generalization, but 91 RS centerbolt heads have the positive seals RB is talking about, your car probably has them, they are cake to do man. Coop and I did them on his car, that was the easiest part Neither of us did them before or checked a manual or anything, came out fine..

You can but valve seals separate, or in a gasket kit, If I were you I'd just get a Fel-Pro Kit set for the whole upper half of the engine since everything is probably apart anyway, they aren't cheap though.

 

Get the positive seals and go for it. The intakes already are positive seals on an 87, and the exhausts I have found work too. If all else fails you can use the factory seals, which have a nylon umbrella style exhaust seal... which works ok but the positive seal is better.

 

I would replace the seals. If you take the springs off you are golden to replace the seals. It is a simple r&r job if you stick with the same type of seals and don't do anything fancy. For example I would use positive seals on the intakes and umbrella seals on the exhaust because I feel that the exhaust guides could use a bit more oil than the intakes. But If you use the same seals you will have no problems. If your heads do use positive seals make sure they are pushed secure on the top of the guides.

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82 z28 350cid, vortec heads, comp 262h cam, Holley 600cfm carb, 2in twice pipes, MSD ignition, turbo 350 trans, 3.73 posi, manly b&m megashifter

 

The only special tool you'll need to buy is a valve spring compressor to get everything apart. You can usually yank the old seals off with a pair of pliers, and you should be able to put the new pc seals on just pressing down on them firmly with your thumb. Piece of cake!

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89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."