I got the engine all put back together and now the car won't start. Could it be that my distibutor isn't at the #1 firing posotion? Cuz the car will crank and try to start but it just won't fire. Any ideas?

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1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission
Borg Warner 7.75" 9 Bolt Rear End

Current Mods: LT4 Hot Cam, Comp Cams 1.52:1 Roller Rocker Arms, Edelbrock TES 1 5/8" Headers, Hooker 3" Aerochamber Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip, Accel Ignition Coil, Cap, Rotor, 8.8mm Wires, K&N Filters, JET TPI Air Foil, All Free Mods, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.

Best ET (w/o LT4 cam): 14.32 @ 97.7mph
(corrected for elevation)

7.5" 10 Bolt with 3.42s soon to come!

 

Uh oh!! Check the obvious stuff, like coil wire not plugged in, or blown fuses. Double-check that you are getting spark, and fuel into the cylinders.

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West Coast GM Shootout 2001!
1991 Camaro Z28
5.7L 5-Speed (originally 305)
13.25 @ 107.18 MPH
Southern California
Member: SoCal 3rd Gen F-Bodies
Webmaster: SoCal F-Bodies
-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

Doh, gotta hate that.

Well, just get back to basics and make sure you're getting the required fuel and spark. Assuming the distributor is anywhere even close it should start or at least try to even if it doesn't stay running. Does it even try to start at all? Probably something minor you've missed. Make sure the fuel pump is getting power, something to do w/ the oil pressure safety switch etc could be screwing it. Make sure you have no blown fuses like Kevin said, etc... I can't think of anything else to check off the top of my head.



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Ray87Z
-Vortec headed 350.
86 IROC w/ a cammed 305 TPI.
Formerly Ray86IROC.
www.inter-scape.com/Ray

 

My car had the same problem. I had just put in a new cam, the car started right up to break in the cam. Well the next day the car wouldn't start. After about 2 weeks of having experienced car guys look at it there was only one thing to do, buy a 350.

 

make sure your distributor is not 180 dergres out. happend to me a couple times


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when the green flag drops the bull$hit stops

Curent: 350,performer RPM intake ,650dp, 700r4, headers, 3inch exhast
Spring 01: 406, Comp 282 solid cam, 2400 stall converter, every thing else the same.

R.I.P #3

 

What does that have to do with putting a cam in and it not starting up?

Check the distributor. I bet its out a little.

Good luck

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-86 IROC
Vortech Supercharged 406
-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

Well, I'm pretty sure that my distributor isn't 180* off. My friend and I tried to start it a few times and it just won't fire. So I am still clueless.

------------------
1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission
Borg Warner 7.75" 9 Bolt Rear End

Current Mods: LT4 Hot Cam, Comp Cams 1.52:1 Roller Rocker Arms, Edelbrock TES 1 5/8" Headers, Hooker 3" Aerochamber Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip, Accel Ignition Coil, Cap, Rotor, 8.8mm Wires, K&N Filters, JET TPI Air Foil, All Free Mods, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.

Best ET (w/o LT4 cam): 14.32 @ 97.7mph
(corrected for elevation)

7.5" 10 Bolt with 3.42s soon to come!

 

Have you checked the distributor position?

Diconnect power to the distributor; remove the #1 plug; bump the engine over while someone holds a thumb over the #1 plug hole; when the pistone finishes coming to the top of the compression stroke, it's at firing. Then take the dist cap off and see where the rotor is pointing. #1 should be at the front of the cap, just to the driver's side of center.

Then once you've made sure that's OK, put the #1 plug back in and hook it up, and hook the power wire back up to the distributor. Then if it still doesn't start, try some ether in the intake. If it starts, you've got a fuel delivery problem. If it still doesn't, you have an ignition problem.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

Had a guy with the same problem. He over-tightenend the rocker. He went by the what the book said in regards to rotating the pushrod until he could no longer rotate the push rods. The problem was he never turned the crank and made sure the rod he was pushing was fully closed.

[This message has been edited by 86z/92rs (edited February 19, 2001).]

 

Dan,

I have a 1987 L-98 car that had the same symptoms. At 12 midnight after a 3-day thrash, the motor would crank but no fire.

Uh, after a good nights sleep I discovered that the distributor cap was not seated fully on the flange at the top of the distributor housing. They will clamp on and LOOK like they're okay, but unless fully seated, the motor won't start.

Do as RB83 suggested, checking for fuel and spark. Check firing order, coil wire, and make sure the fuel pump fuse is back in. You probably took it out to do the cam swap, as the service manual suggests.

If this does not work, scream back and we'll collectively figure it out. Good luck.

BOR

 

Agreed on checking the distributor and the spark plug wire routing.

Here's a good trick. Take an old distributor cap and cut a BIG window in it so that you can see when the rotor is pointing to the #1 plug. Rotate the engine to put piston #1 at top dead center. Now look in the window you cut into the cap and check the rotor alignment. Easy way to make sure things are lined up appropriately.

Also - you said it tries to start? Can you get it to start if you have your foot on the gas?

Tim

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TRAXION's 1990 IROC-Z
Best Time = 12.244 @ 112.51mph (1.778 60' / 7.819@88.32mph in the 1/8)
All Natural. No Force. No Drugs. Stock Bottom End. Stock Body Panels.
Gunning for NA 11's with bigger cam, bigger stall, and bigger exhaust.
-=ICON Motorsports=-
Moderator: PROM board at thirdgen.org

 

Ill second that overtightnight the rockers thing, I did the same thing. The motor spun really easy and would occasionally pop but not start. Backed the rockers off a bit and she popped right off.

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91 RS W/carbed 350, Vortec heads, performer rpm, Comp cams Xtreme energy 224/230 duration and .477/.480 lift. BFG Drag radials. 3.42 posi,Corvette servoed 700r4, 3000 stallconverter. Edelbrock TES, 3inch cat, flowmaster with single 2.5 inch exit.
Best time yet to come
12's?? :crossthumbs:

 

I'm going to send you a file on how to install the distributor so that the engine will fire instantly.

You much be VERY careful at this stage, if you've installed a flat tappet camshaft. Continued cranking can kill the lobe(s) and you'll be doing this job all over again.

There are three things that must be correct inorder for the distributor to be in the correct position to fire the engine:

1. The #1 piston has to be on the compression stroke

2. The rotor tip must be pointed at the #1 terminal inside the distributor cap

3. The harmonic (torsional) damper mark must be aligned with the timing chain cover timing tab anywhere between 6 and 12 degrees.

If all else is right (connections, fuel, ignition, lifter preload, etc.)it'll fire instantly.

Let me know you make out.

Jake

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1986 Corvette Coupe, 415 CID, Edelbrock 6073s, ZZ9

[This message has been edited by JakeJr (edited February 20, 2001).]