Does anyone know if the LPE 219/219 is to be installed sraight up??

 

yes, dot to dot

 

i don't think he was asking where the timing dots go. most cams have 4* advance ground into them so straight up works good, even if they don't hjave the advance ground into them straight up still works good for most applications.

 

That's perfect guy's, thanks.

 

Well, there is a Corvettforum member who has installed his slightyl retarded to get some more RPM out of it.

Beach Bum, he has a info page, but it wont load right now.

 

Ya Ominous, I heard 1.5* or something like that.

 

I dont recall for sure.

It might be fun to shoot for 2* or maybe even 4*.

With a decent stall it really shouldnt even matter as the low power loss will not be in your powerband. With a nicely ported SR it might work out real good.

Oh well, have fun with it and let us know.

 

Retard any cam and you'll get more RPM peak power out of it, advance a cam and you'll get more low end torque, less top end power.

Still degreeing the cam is the best way.

 

True, if it's too small for the engine.

True, if it's too big for the engine.

True, if you didn't buy the right cam in the first place.

 

You will see the same trend. Lost low end, better top end.
Its not a matter of the right and wrong cam, cams can come from their factory with variances, which is why you degree them to get them on the proper centerline.

 

Yes it is. For instance, if you put a cam with 230* duration @ .050" in a stock engine with stock intake, stock carb, stock heads, etc., then advancing it will gain you the low end torque that you fudged up and lost.

If you put a cam with 200* duration @ .050" in an engine with a Dominator carb, SP intake, 200cc Sportsman II heads, etc., then retarding it will gain you the upper RPM HP that you fudged up and lost.

Granted those are extremes, but simply choosing the correct cam in the first place will have little effect on the RPM range by moving it 4* one way or the other.

Quote:

cams can come from their factory with variances, which is why you degree them to get them on the proper centerline.

That's called checking the manufatures IC with the cam card, as well as the lift, duration, and LSA. That's not degreeing a cam. If you run into a problem with their specs not matching up, you make them send you a new cam. Why should you be stuck spending the time and money fixing what they fudged up? IMO, if you have to do that, their cam isn't worth buying.

 

Read: http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Ca...ML/413-414.asp

 

WHOO...

That tells how to read a cam degree wheel, nothing else. It doesn't tell you what I told you. I've read more on this subject than I care to admit. But I will admit it since it's given me a vast knowledge of camshafts.

I've checked and installed so many cams I can damn near do it blindfolded now.

 

I can see this getting out of control real fast.

However for the guy that is asking about the 219 that he owns, and in his terms, its like this:

The 219 is already a real good match for his 355 SR motor. However depending on his stall speed he very well may benefit by retarding the cam for his application. This whole power lost power gained debate is relative. What actually happens is that the entire TQ curve is moved up slightly in the RPM range when retarded, so it is hard to say if anything in the average numbers are ever truely gained or lost. So it comes down to what is your stall speed and what is your shift recovery point. In this case its more like buying 200-300 more rpm to spin the combo if the SR is ported enough to benefit in the 5800rpm range. While there will be an effect here, the effect would be more predictable in a 383 where the cam looks smaller and is used up quicker, retarding the cam in a 383 will help bring back the RPM range that was lost to the added displacement over a 355.

 

I know form experience that if you mess with the placment of the cam in the motor and drive it and for some reason the motor is running weird, and not how you expected it to, then your goning to be kicking yourself in the rear that you didn't do it striaight up. Unless you have a two piece timing cover that will alow you to make changes easily

 

Well, straight up it is. Thanks for the info.

 

Whatever, Apparently we are both missing points. YOU DEGREE THE CAM TO MAKE SURE THAT NOT ONLY THE CAM IS IN THE CORRECT GRIND, BUT EVERYTHING ELSE IS TOO.

Which is what I posted that link up for since obviously I'm an idiot.

Later