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How does this combo sound?

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Old Apr 3, 2004 | 01:57 AM
  #1  
KillerRS's Avatar
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From: Merrimack, NH
How does this combo sound?

327 w/ forged pistons, pink lt1 rods,billet crank.
Machined vortec heads for higher lift.
10.5:1
Comp Cams XE284H 240*/246* .507"/.510" 110 lope separation
speed demon 650 w/ vacuum secondary
pro-products "hurricane" intake
crane 1.6 rockers
direct port nitrous.
2800 vigilante
What do you guys think, any sugestions?
Thanks

Last edited by KillerRS; Apr 3, 2004 at 02:01 AM.
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Old Apr 3, 2004 | 06:41 AM
  #2  
ede's Avatar
ede
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From: Jackson County
you sure the rods will fit the crank? most 327s (if you using a factory 327 block) used SJ cranks and the rods you picked won't fit. if you're going with a later LJ block and aren't restricted by class rules why limit youself to 327 when 350 or more is easy to do and will make you more power.
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Old Apr 3, 2004 | 01:15 PM
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From: Merrimack, NH
no its a 350 block, unless both the blocks in my basment are 4-bolt 327, as the casting # are the same. im useing a 327 because i got it for free and billet cranks arent cheap or weak. can you put longer rods in to increase displacement
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Old Apr 3, 2004 | 01:19 PM
  #4  
89RsPower!'s Avatar
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From: New Jersey
Car: 86 Corvette, 89 IROC, 1999 TA
Engine: 350, 350, LS1
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4, T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.07, 373, 4.10
so are you saying your putting a 327 crank in a 350 block? your wording is a tad confusing, what I make of it is you got a billet 327 crank for free and are putting it in a 350 block, is that correct?
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Old Apr 3, 2004 | 01:22 PM
  #5  
RB83L69's Avatar
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Longer rods don't increase displacement.

Help us understand.... you're going to take a 4" LJ block and make it a 327, because you already have the crank; and then you're going to spend a wad of money on making power with it. You do of course realize that the cheapest power you can make, is by adding cubic inches? Why are you leaving 23 very cheap cubes on the table? Or, if you are going to buy long rods, you'll need custom pistons too; at that point, you can probably buy a 383 kit cheaper than the rods and custom pistons; so why would you spend more to get 56 CID less?

Do you think there might be a reason you got the crank for free..... like maybe, the PO was sick of getting spanked by people with more inches?

Apart from that obvious missing logic, it looks like a fairly straightforward combo to me. Should make about 327/350 as much power as everybody else gets out of the same stuff on top of a 350; or, instead of the guy in the other lane's 425 HP or so, you'll have a little under 400 HP.
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Old Apr 3, 2004 | 05:58 PM
  #6  
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I got a free BRAND NEW crank for a 327. I dont care about cubic inches persay, yeah i would like to have a 406, but this 327 is going to have a damn strong internals. strong enough to run a 250 shot of nitrous and not even be a issue. I dont plan on running boost because of the 10.5:1 CR. I could get new pistons, but why would i if i have a perfectly good rotating assembly that i paid nothing for.
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Old Apr 3, 2004 | 06:28 PM
  #7  
89RsPower!'s Avatar
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From: New Jersey
Car: 86 Corvette, 89 IROC, 1999 TA
Engine: 350, 350, LS1
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4, T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.07, 373, 4.10
if you already have a complete rotating assembly and its a large journal crank (you may have already stated this and i just overlooked it) then i'd say just slap it togather and enjoy it, now if you still need other parts i'd go with 350 internals.. if you have the cash laying around a stroker would be even better.. but if you have everything you need to install a large journal 327 rotating assembly in the block and all the parts are free I'd run it like that instead of paying money for parts.. depends on what you want it to do with it really.. more cubes obviously make more power, but if your on a budget (which I normally am, except I just spend my money on essentials IE. rotating assembly, and then say maybe slap on junk heads until I can afford good heads, for example I took my 2 bolt block, added splayed mains, forged rods crank and forged 10.1 flat tops, then slaped stock smogger heads and a peanut cam in until I saved enough money for a real cam and heads.) Do it the cheap way, but make sure it does what it suppose to and makes you happy. sorry for the long post.
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Old Apr 4, 2004 | 03:26 PM
  #8  
Streetiron85's Avatar
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From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
That combo sounds like one that I wish I could be building, but can't cause in Cali.
I had a 3.25" LJ forged crank sitting around that I finally decided to use in combination with a 4bolt block and a retro hydraulic roller cam.
I'll be using a smallish smog legal cam which will give me pretty good MPG too. And that isn't a bad thing considering gas is up to $2.35 now.

Your combo sounds like it ought to be fun tho, and using good forged internals leaves the door open to using a power adder later if you feel the need.
You mentioned something about long rods... Keep in mind that parts (rods or pistons) can be swapped to a longer stroke crank. And if you want to, later you can keep part of your assembly and just add a stroker crank.
A set of forged pistons that fit a 383 with 6" rods will work in a 327 with 6.25" rods, for example.
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