Right know i have A 1985 Z28 with a 305 lg4 engine with a five speed and i want to build a performane 350 to put in it with 400-500 horsepower i want to know what i should use to build it and i want to be street legal. i will have 5000-7000 to build it and i would like some advise on what to use and where to get them

p.s. i need to find a place that sells a short block that can handle the power and that can handle nos or a blower later down the road. plus i want to keep it a carb if its cheaper

 

First thing's first.

1. Will you tranny hold 400hp? Probably not for long, but it won't hold nearly that much tq.

2. Will you stock rear-end hold 400hp? Probably not for long.

 

A good foundation for a performance 350 is the GM ZZ4 350.
Depending upon what your states smog regs are, the entire ZZ4 crate motor could be used, or possibly just the ZZ4 longblock with your existing intake system.
There are a lot of variables, and it's best to begin by familiarizing yourself with your local smog regs, and put together a strategy based upon that.
Just one of many possibilities.

 

i got a ford 9 inch rear with a posi and 3.73 gears a 31 spinal axles and im going to get a new tranny that can handle the power i live in delaware with emissions test but not smog test if u look at all the websites that sell them they say it will not pass emission test in any state

 

The ZZ4 shortblock is just a flattop piston 350 with a forged crank, 4bolt main, and PM rods.
All good parts.
The longblock comes with some L98 heads, I think.
And the crate motor has a performer RPM intake and a holley 750.
I'd guess that the ZZ4 crate motor wouldn't pass because of the carb, but possibly in your state, you could put your Q jet and a different intake on there and pass. ... Possibly
A N/A 400-500 hp motor is unlikely to pass in most states, cause to make that kind of power would take a cam that is too big to be smog legal. But maybe Delaware is more lax...
See what other guys in your state are doing.

 

Edelbrock makes a 440 hp 350 that is smog legal in every state. It also costs a few shekels, but power always has cost money.

 

While the ZZ4 may be a good platform with its forged steel crank, Factory powdered metal rods, and roughly 10:! hypereutectic pistons, i emphasize HYPEREUTECTIC pistons. If a power adder is in the future, you will want forged.

For the money, and if you have the ability, i would seriously look into buying the parts and doing this yourself. Your local machine shop could probably sell you a bare 350 bock that has been cleaned up and tested and possibly bored over (most likely .030"). I have a local machine shop that sells 355 blocks (of various castings) for 250-300 depending on the casting. Ebay has several bottom end kits, many of which include forged pistons from TRW usually. These kits can generally be had for ~1000-1500. The nice thing about these kits is they often times come pre-balanced and include the pistons, rings, rods, bolts, main and rod bearings, crank, balancer, and flexplate. Basically your complete, pre-balanced bottom end assembly. With that its just a toss together and go. Many Ebay kits include the Eagle ESP crank and Eagle/Scat I beam rods. These generally are good to about 450-500 hp.

Dart makes good heads at an affordable price. if aftermarket heads is what you want. If you browse the classifieds, you can find some castings. Like all cases, some are better than others. I personally have a set of worked over Vortecs that im running on a 355.

Comp has "K" kits that they sell. Depending on budget and what type of cam you desire, they are either in the mid to high $300's or i think $600's range. These kits include the Cam, lifters, timing set, valve springs, retainers, and locks, and seals. The nice thing about this is all the parts have been pre-matched.

The best thing you can do right now, is sit down, look at your options and your abilities, and price it out. Go over the total bill for building an engine in comparison to getting a pre-assembled one. I prefer to build my own. There is no better feeling than sitting back, drinking your favorite beverage, and listen to the purr of an engine you built and saying to yourself "I built that.....*proud*" Personally, i love that feeling.

Engine block: $400
rotating assembly: $1250 (avg)
Comp K kit: $400 (flat tappet XE)
Heads, fully machined/assembled: $1000

Thats around $3050 for the basics. And you still have enough to prevent you from getting nickel and dimed to death with the small things.

 

another idea (though I'm always up for new ****) is to check ebay for the assembled motor. several engine shops deal exclusively online, and will selll you just about whatever you want. for like 3-5k you could get a great motor to fit your application. I'd use my example, but i bought a used motor/tranny combo, and that may not work for you. look around and see what's there. I bet you could build/buy an entire driveline for 5-7k on ebay, and have it delivered to your door.

also, i don't think you can use 4-500 hp and emissions-legal in the same sentence unles we're talking LS1.

 

where can i get a ls1 engine and what would i have to do to make it make 400-500 horse, how much would it cost and how hard is it to swap in

 

you would be better off with an LT1, if you're trying to do a swap AND build an FI set-up. it bolts right in physically, and the accessories will all fit... no notching the k-member for A/C. also, once it's bolted in, you'll have a grand or more left for hop-up parts. and LS1 will probably run you 4 grand or so, with everything you need to make it work going with the engine.

 

GM and a cam swap.