New motor won't start
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,011
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From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 406
Transmission: TH350, 4200
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 3.89
New motor won't start
I need some ideas guys. I am going brain dead. I can't get my engine to fire up. I have spark and fuel and even pulled out the distributor to ensire #1 TDC. I double checked the wires and everythings seems right. I have pops and the occasional backfire coming out of the headers. I have fuel in the sight glass. I just can't figure out why it won't start tonight.
Not sure what info is relavant here....its all new stuff.
388, 10:1, AFR 195, Demon 750DP, LT1 starter, electric fuel pump.
Not sure what info is relavant here....its all new stuff.
388, 10:1, AFR 195, Demon 750DP, LT1 starter, electric fuel pump.
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,781
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From: B'ville, WV
Car: 2002 Formula Firebird
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4l60e
Axle/Gears: 3.23
You sure spark is making it to the plugs?
Pull the #1 plug and ground it to the frame and see if you getting spark. If your getting fuel for sure and you have compression then the only thing stopping it is spark. I'm sure you know this though.
Pull the #1 plug and ground it to the frame and see if you getting spark. If your getting fuel for sure and you have compression then the only thing stopping it is spark. I'm sure you know this though.
Last edited by 88Camaro350; May 25, 2004 at 12:16 AM.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Sounds like your distributor is installed 180° out.
Remember, there are 2 instances of #1 TDC per complete engine cycle, but only one of them is #1 firing. The other is the moment at which the #1 exhaust valve is closing, and the #1 intake valve is just starting to open, at the end of the exhaust stroke and beginning of the intake stroke. That point is also #6 firing. If you hit #1 with spark at that moment, with both valves open like that, you will light of fuel in both the intake and the exhaust. Of course if it's 180° out on #1, it's 180° out on all the rest too.
Remove the distributor partway by lifting it straight out until the gear disengages (about 2" is enough); rotate the shaft exactly 180°; drop it back in. I'll bet it will come alot closer to running.
Remember, there are 2 instances of #1 TDC per complete engine cycle, but only one of them is #1 firing. The other is the moment at which the #1 exhaust valve is closing, and the #1 intake valve is just starting to open, at the end of the exhaust stroke and beginning of the intake stroke. That point is also #6 firing. If you hit #1 with spark at that moment, with both valves open like that, you will light of fuel in both the intake and the exhaust. Of course if it's 180° out on #1, it's 180° out on all the rest too.
Remove the distributor partway by lifting it straight out until the gear disengages (about 2" is enough); rotate the shaft exactly 180°; drop it back in. I'll bet it will come alot closer to running.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,011
Likes: 0
From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 406
Transmission: TH350, 4200
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 3.89
I'll pull a valve cove tonight and check out that I have the correct TDC. As for the rockers being too tight - I tightened them 1/2 a turn past when the pushrods became too tight to spin with my fingers. Any chance that is too tight?
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Depends on how hard you grip them when trying to spin them....
The procedure IS NOT to tighten them until you can't spin them; it really is, to tighten them until you feel some drag or resistance. At that point, the rocker will be pushed down by the nut enough to meet the push rod as it sits in its seat in the lifter, and there will be no slack left in there.
If you think you might have them too tight, back them off a turn or something and try it. Only takes about 5 seconds per nut. At worst they'll clatter, and you'll just have to re-tighten them back to where you had them; on the other hand, you might get it to work. It might be worth a try.
The procedure IS NOT to tighten them until you can't spin them; it really is, to tighten them until you feel some drag or resistance. At that point, the rocker will be pushed down by the nut enough to meet the push rod as it sits in its seat in the lifter, and there will be no slack left in there.
If you think you might have them too tight, back them off a turn or something and try it. Only takes about 5 seconds per nut. At worst they'll clatter, and you'll just have to re-tighten them back to where you had them; on the other hand, you might get it to work. It might be worth a try.
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Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,011
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From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 406
Transmission: TH350, 4200
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 3.89
I guess they may be too tight then. And you're right - it is worth a try. Thanks for the replies.
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 435
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From: Huntsville, Al
Car: ‘92 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Keep backing them off 1/4 turn until it fires.
I made the same mistakes. I went until the push rod quit turning then gave it a 1/2 turn.
The tightness will also depend on how well your lifters were loaded.
I made the same mistakes. I went until the push rod quit turning then gave it a 1/2 turn.
The tightness will also depend on how well your lifters were loaded.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,011
Likes: 0
From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 406
Transmission: TH350, 4200
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 3.89
Got it started last night. I backed off the rockers and re-installed the distributor correctly. Timing was 160* out. Thanks for the replies.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,011
Likes: 0
From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 406
Transmission: TH350, 4200
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 3.89
No, after we pulled the distributor, it had to turn 20* back after a 1/2 turn to line up with #1.
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