Do I really have to take the radiator out when doing an engine swap? 305 --> 350

Any other tips or minute things I should know? This is the first time I've ever done one.

 

`Same radiator for both 305/350. Just flush it and replace the hoses and thermostat.

 

That I know, but what I was getting at, is do I physically need to take the radiator out of the engine bay for this, or can I leave it in there?

 

A few more bolts, and it's out.

I'll take that any day to wishing I had after running the water pump or balancer/pulley into it.

 

I've already taken the water pump and alternator off. Now I'm working on the left side of the motor with all of the emissions and A/C stuff.

 

Its quick n' easy to remove. Definatly want to take it out. The rad wont stand a chance against a nearly quarter ton chunk of metal swinging into it. Try to get the condenser out of the way as much as possible as well. I pulled my engine out seperate from the transmission and when it got free of the dowel pins it immediatly swung forward and hit the radiator support. Thank *** there wasnt a radiator there.

 

So do you think I should just unhook the mounting bracket that holds on the A/C and Smog pump and just move it out of the way? Is there enough flex in those lines to do that?

And 2, on one of the lines to the power steering resiviour is a simple rubber hose (a la the radiator), but the other is a steel hose with no connections except for a bolt to the steering box. . . can I just unhook that bracket as well and push it out of the way or is there not enough flex in that steel line for that?

Thanks for yall's help thus far.

 

OK, radiator is out. . . Good Lord, there was like a whole insect zoo underneath it.

 

Unbolt the AC compressor and just set it aside. There is enough slack in the lines to allow you to do so. You can then just take off the accessory bracket with the smog pump on or off of it. There is a bolt on the passenger side fraim rail that will allow you to swing the AC condensor out of the way as well. Then just slide the radiator out after you unbolt the fan from the bottom and top.

 

Summary for day 1:

battery and alarm disconnected and placed out of the way

alternator removed

water pump removed

radiator and fan removed as well

fuel lines disconnected and ready for removal

. . . ok, that's it for now.

Thanks for the reply Shifty. So tomorrow morning I'll knock out the A/C and smog stuff.

Any advice on getting the power steering crap out. It appears that I actually have to remove a line out of the steering box.

 

There's another good reason for taking it out...

I left the power steering pump in the car, just unbolted it from the engine and tied it under the frame with an old wire coat hanger (took the cap off and drained it into a pan first).

 

I kept my power steering bracket in there. Placed it off the side where the evac canister used to be. Just tied it out of the way.

Removing the radiator is cake.

I think I could do an engine swap in one day now. My car is so easy to work on and I know exactly what needs to be done.

I'll see soon when I pull it to install new heads and a 2 piece timing cover.

 

So far today has not started out well. I went to remove the power steering bracket, but the head of my star socket broke off in the screw. So I guess now I'll have to actually disconnect the power steering assembly from the box and try to drill is out once I got the rest of the motor out of the car.

 

Here's a stupid question. . . how do you get the damn radiator overflow resivour out? I see the plastic screw thing, but I keep turning it and nothing happens.

 

Anybody with any advice on how to get these Torx screws out? As mentioned, I've already broken one off and the other bit is now twisted. I soaked each screw w/ brake cleaner and then WD40, and it doesn't budge.

 

Mine was held on with the little plastic screw/clips that expand underneath when you tighten them. If yours is the same, just take a pair of pliers to them grab the "head" and yank them out. If you have metal screws, then damn, those must be in there tight to be that bad.

 

Gunny,

Buy a craftsman torx driver that goes on your 3/8" ratchet. Better yet get a Snap-On tool. They hardly ever break. Dump that Lisle tool!

 

Well, I went out and got another torx bit, this time harden and whatnot. I still can't get the damn things to budge. Anybody else have this much trouble with them?

 

Apply heat with a MAPP gas torch to the area of the bracket where the bolt goes through. Then hit the bolt with rust penetrant. Do that a couple of times and she'll come loose.

 

Yeah, I guess I'll try that when we take the engine out of the compartment. I'm just going to yank it out with the brackets still on the engine. Right now, I'm just working on some little stuff, like fuel lines what what not.

 

insect delete is a good mod

 

Make sure to disconnect everything, including the ground straps at the rear. Little 'plinks' and 'snaps' while your pulling it out are never good.

 

Really, they're not? I thought is was supposed to sound like that.