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NEED HELP WIHT ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

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Old Apr 3, 2001 | 08:02 PM
  #1  
88_TAOD's Avatar
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From: Sharon, CT, 06069
NEED HELP WIHT ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Ok here is the deal. I just took out teh cooleant level seconsor form my gta because it leaked form there. So nowi was driving the car down the road and i noticed that my lights strated dimmin along with my dash. I don'tunder stand. No wmy car won't even run it just stalls out. What could be casueing this to happend to my car. I am getting sick of replacing all this crap on my car. Please help me on what the problem could e.
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Old Apr 3, 2001 | 08:42 PM
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mtx28's Avatar
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From: columbia, sc
as an english major, i must point out your 11 spelling mistakes. i wouldnt have said anything otherwise, but this time i couldnt resist. besides that, cant help you.

------------------
  • 83 Z28--ttops, 200k miles--very ragged out. sold, thank goodness
  • 74 Z28--slightly modded 383, TH400 tranny, not too quick but fun to drive

[This message has been edited by mtx28 (edited April 03, 2001).]
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Old Apr 3, 2001 | 09:48 PM
  #3  
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88,

Spelling and diction aside, the electrical gremlins are probably not related to the coolant temperature sensor leak, unless the leaking coolant was spraying on the alternator. If the alternator brushes and slip rings were coated with anitfreeze, and the coolant began to evaporate, the resulting mess would be a sticky solution of coolant that could prevent the alternator brushes from seating properly.

What is the system voltage when all the light dimming is going on? If the alternator isn't charging the battery, you might not be able to run long on a failing battery.

Check and clean all connections, and tet the alternator output. You can do this on the car if you have a voltmeter and a small screwdriver.

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Later,
Vader
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"I'm'a do Things My Way - It's My way or the Highway."
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Old Apr 4, 2001 | 03:45 PM
  #4  
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From: Sharon, CT, 06069
Sorry about the mistakes. My computer was so slow that night taht i typed that whole message before it even registered and displayed on the screen. Normally I am a pretty good speller. But it very well could have sprayed on the alternator. But its wierd. My car doesn't idle well and my radar detector resets when i let the rpm's drop. Any suggestions

------------------
1988 Pontiac Trans Am GTA
350 tpi, Fully Stock
BEST ET 15.4

Stereo
Alpine CDA-7864
Power Acoustik Apache Series 2200 watt amp
Two MTX Thunder 8000's in Thirdgen Box
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Old Apr 4, 2001 | 06:44 PM
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From: Savannah, GA
Car: 1997 Jeep Wrangler
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 8.8 rear, 4.56 gears, 4:1 transfer
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by mtx28:
as an english major, i must point out your 11 spelling mistakes. i wouldnt have said anything otherwise, but this time i couldnt resist. besides that, cant help you.

</font>
I got D's in high school english and I counted 13 mistakes.



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86 Camaro Sport
383 Speed-O-Motive Crate Engine, Raptor 700R4 Tranmission, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge G2's, 58mm Accel TB, 3.73 Auburn Pro, SLP Cold Air Induction and Headers, Dynomax Cat-back, Serpentine Belt Setup, Dual IROC Fans, Jamex springs, 16" IROC Rims, 36mm/24mm Sway Bars, Global West Steering Brace. Hotchkis Rear LCA's,Panhard Bar and SFC's.
My Camaro Project
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Old Apr 4, 2001 | 07:59 PM
  #6  
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From: Vereinigten Staaten
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I count 12 errors, but I'm sure I'm guilty of even worse, since I usually type faster than my brain can compute.

Anyhow, the reason the car stalls out and the radar detector resets is because they are all 12V acessories. If the ECM, Injectors, and ignition coil don't get the full 12V, they don't operate properly, and thus the car stalls. Same goes for the radar detector (except for the stalling, it just resets, in case anybody got confused).

It could either be a battery problem or an alternator. Vader mentioned about the small screwdriver, and I think I know what he is getting at, but I don't think you can "full field" a late model alternator (I could be wrong, but never had to). Don't rule out the battery, because it takes electricity to make electricity, and if the battery is shot, the alternator will not put out, so get them checked out. Good luck.

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Old Apr 5, 2001 | 01:42 AM
  #7  
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From: Fairfax, VA
Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt SLP Torsen, 3.73 ratio
Mine is acting similar, but I know it isn't electrical. A few months ago, when I had my injectors cleaned, well, I guess my Fuel pressure regulator rotted out, or something, cause when I put it all back togather, it was still hard to start cold. So I re-ran the checks and found now the fuel pressure regulator was blown (or it already was blown, but the injector leak was overshadowing that problem) So now my fuel pressure will drop to say around 33-35 psi...barely idles, lights dim, radar detector resets, CD player keeps on trucking though! Sometimes the car stalls. I has been getting progressivlt worse, as I assume the hole through the reg is getting larger, and allowing my fuel pressure to drop even lower. If I recall correctly the service manual says that lower than 24 psi the car probably wont be able to hold any idle, and just constantly stall.

So what am I waiting for? Well, my Tax return, since I'm not working yet, I have very little money, uncle sam should come through for me in the next few weeks, and then I need to find a good AFPR and use the 10% summit discount we get

Oh yeah, my coolant level sensor is also busted...just not leaking (that I know of) so my car always tells me I am out of coolant...Just too lazy to replace it/find it



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Corry Lazarowitz
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SLP 1 3/4" headers, 3" cat back (stock cat )MSD ignition. MSD Blaster SS coil. More soon when funds are avail...
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Old Apr 5, 2001 | 06:04 AM
  #8  
GMTech's Avatar
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From: Vereinigten Staaten
Car: Take
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Transmission: Pick
If you think that you will be able to fix your problem w/ an AFPR, I think you will be dissapointed. Many of the AFPRs DO NOT come w/ the diaphram, and this is the part you need. Granted, its a good idea to get an AFPR, but you may need to purchase the diaphram loacally. Good luck.

------------------
If you live in Southeastern US, check us out!
South East Thirdgen

GM Master Tech
ASE Master Tech + L1

Savannah, GA

'87 Trans Am
S/D TPI retrofit including functional PassKey,
22# injectors,
Whatever chip I feel like burning,
JET AFPR, Ported Plenum,
TB Coolant Bypass, Custom Cold Air,
SSM SFC, KYB Shocks, Boxed LCAs, Wonder Bar,
8mm Accel wires,
Flowmaster Exhaust,
16" GTA rims,
Corvette Servo,
--&gt;14.97 @ 94.9 MPH&lt;--

'97 Bonneville SSE
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Old Apr 5, 2001 | 09:34 AM
  #9  
Kevin Irving's Avatar
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From: Norfolk, VA
Car: 1985 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
So you mean that the AFPRs that you buy from Summit, Jegs, etc. are just the "top hat" with a screw/bolt through them?? My God that is ridiculous.... the internals can be bought at any parts store for $22-$25, the whole shebang can be bought at the dealer for about $150... making my own is looking better every day

------------------
Kevin Irving
85 Trans Am WS-6, 305 TPI, custom burned '86 PROM with '87 "165"ECM, Accel Supercoil & 8.8 Wires, MSD 6AL, Aluminum Driveshaft, Wonderbar, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Plenum, Modified MAF, Syclone Fuel Pump, JET Airfoil

15.556 @ 86.65mph, Nov 10, 2000.... I know it sucks.. but it will get better!

http://www.geocities.com/transam85tpi/

Member - The Tidewater Trans Am Club, Norfolk VA http://www.geocities.com/ttacva/
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