Ok, I've been having problems with the v-belt system in my '83 Z28 for quite awhile now, and not much seems to help. The problem is that it eats through alternator belts like crazy (polished off another today, actually) and if its revved above 3500 revs, it will come off - every time.

Now, I've done a search, and I think I read that the bracket for the AIR pump (which I no longer have) was between the head and the alternator on the pivot bolt. Is this right?

Now, there is no spacer (or AIR bracket) behind my alt right now, and it looks like it might need a spacer at the bottom to line up correctly. The belt lines up perfectly across the top to the water pump, but is "pulled" forward between the alt and crank, in a way that it looks like a spacer at the bottom of the alt might help it line up properly.

This is driving me absolutely insane. There is even black dust on the front of my engine from the belts... looks exactly like whats left behind after a burnout.

Am I right about the AIR bracket? Do I need a spacer between my alt and head on the pivot bolt? If I do, how thick should it be?

HELP ME PLEASE!!!!!

 

Your bracket might have been different but mine was a very thin peice of stamped steel. I removed mine and didn't put a spacer and don't have a problem with alternator belts. Are you possitive you have the correct water pump? Have you checked for damaged pullies yet?

 

Ok, let me see if I can help you here. I just went out and measured the spacer on my 82. It is 3 1/4" long. My alternator is on the passenger side with v-belts also. Make sure the top bracket that the slider or adjuster bolt is attached to is also lined up when you snug everything up. Hope this helps..

 

Yes, there was a bracket there.

You need a spacer behind the alt. In addition to the tube thing that bolts to the alt, use a thick flat washer of some sort, to simulate the AIR bracket.

If you need it, I can snap a pic sometime; but I think you already have it figured out.

 

Ok, well, I tried it. The belt stayed on for as high as I took the engine (around 5200) and all I did was put on a small washer between the head and the spacer tube on the bottom of the alternator.

SUCCESS!!!


*** BUT *** If I may ask, RB, could you snap a pic of the part that this washer is supposed to replace? I'd just like to be sure that the one I have is the right size. Its about 1.5mm thick or so.

BTW - does it matter how fast the engine accelerates to a certain rpm (lets say 5200)... My T5 is not in great shape, so I didn't really wanna give 'er hell, but I did wind the engine up pretty quick. Does this make much difference? I did nail it once when it wasn't in gear, and it went up to around 5000 and the belt seemed fine. Does it sound like all is well now?

 

I'm guessing that you have the problem solved already but here is how I do mine. I take a piece of string and run it through the middle of every pulley. If one pulley is cocked sideways the string will show this up. Kite string is what I use. Sometimes brackets need a washer or something to line up perfectly. Second, go to the parts store and get a "Dayco" TOP COG belt. This is a belt that has the ridges on top instead of on bottom. The V is actually smooth and the top has the ridges. These belts always stay on. I went through about $70 worth of belts in a day trying to get them to stay on. My friend told me of the top cog belts and have never had a problem since. I think that the regular belts with the grooves on the V have too much traction and actually walk off the pulley whereas the top cogs have less traction and do not walk off the pulley. Hope this helps.

 

Good advise, I'll keep that in mind

Actually, since I like to keep a few spare parts in my car, and I'm using the 'spare' belt now because the other one was eaten today, I'll probably get another soon. I'll have to get one of those then.

Now that I think about it, the original belt (yep, OE, 21 years old now) never had any problems untill it finally just broke last summer. After that belt went is when all my problems started. The OE belt didn't have any 'teeth' on it at all. It was just a smooth V, and was some kinda smooth fabric on top. I still have the OE power steering belt too, and its the same kinda belt as the one that broke. Its never given me any problems.

 

Hrm, maybe I should put a washer in there. I thought it was so thin it wouldn't matter.

 

It makes a difference. You can go to the hardware store and get a good selection of different thickness washers and use the one or ones that line it up. Also, don't forget the top cog belt. I swear by it.

 

I never had a problem with the belt but lately after i last had the alternator off it's been squealing a bit. I'll try a washer when i get a chance.

 

I finally got motivated and snapped a pic.... the bracket and the washer are both in it. The bracket won't fit because the VCs are too tall, the AIR valve hits it and it won't quite make it there; so I had to use a washer anyway, in spite of that whole part of the car being entirely present.

 

I stopped being lazy and went and picked up a washer for a whole 20 cents heh. I'll put it on tomorrow and see if it stops my belt squeal that i suddenly started to get after replacing the alternator connector.

 

Well I put the washer in and it still did it. Then i realized that i allways keep the fan switch on. I shut it off when i start the car and all is fine again.

 

THANK YOU RB!!! You saved my *** yet again

Thats exactly the pic I needed!

 

Glad to be useful!!

 

I am having the exact same problem. I got the top cog belt and it hasn't broken yet, but I get real bad belt squeal and when that happens, the volt meter drops really low. Then it stops squealing and the volts go back up. I'm not sure if I still have that bracket on or not. I'll have to check tomorrow.

 

Sounds like the belt is slipping really bad. Is the belt tight? Also, check to see if one of the pulleys is locking up or something. This will cause it to squeal also.

 

OK, first let me start by saying, the belt I have on it now is the 3rd one in about a month. I got the good top cog style this time. I tensioned it up tight when I first got it a week ago. A few days ago the squealing started and got worse by the day. Today I finally couldn't take it anymore and went to tighten it somemore. I was actually able to slide the alternator almost all the way back in its bracket. That fixed the squeal, but why was I able to move the alt. that much further back than when I installed the belt? Did the belt stretch? I also have that black rubber residue all over the front of my engine. Oh, and I do still have the AIR bracket and everything looks to be lined up perfectly.

 

Are you sure that you are getting all of the alternator bolts tight? Sounds like the bolts are coming loose. There should be about 3 bolts to the alt. bracket and alternator. Also, try using some loctite on the threads if they keep coming loose.

 

once i went to a 140 amp alt and fixed my ac i noticed my belts wearing and squealing more often. i threw an alt belt once too and the ps belt is horrible to tighten. i looked on e-bay and found a complete serpentine setup used with all accessories for 260 including 60 bucks for delivery. there is no more squeaking, my belt stays on, i don't have to adjust anything everything aligns perfectly and my engine compartment is neater. the only hard part of the job was fitting my large case 140 amp alt (cs144). the set came with a 10si. i highly recomend this upgrade for anybody who relies on there car for daily driving.

 

I solved all my problems with the stock Vbelt fipping over and or flying off at high rpm by going to the wreckers and getting the flat belt (like a serpintine belt) alternator , water pump and crank pulleys off and '85 '86 carbeurated 305V8 third gen camaro or F-bird. Get the clutch fan too.
no more problems even at 7000rpm+.
total cost $25

 

Thats good to know. I'm having the same alternator belt squeal episode with my '84 L69. In the process of doing the same pulley
and serpentine belt mod. I was told that since I don't drive the car much that the alternator was trying to charge the battery very quickly and was under extreme load during the first miniute or so after start up. As soon as the squealing stopped the volt gage returned to it's normal reading.

 

I still have all the serpentine stuff from my '91 RS so perhaps I'll convert to that. Only problem I can see is that the standard rotation water pump on my '84 has a temp sensor on it and the reverse rotation pump from my '91 does not. Can I get a reverse rotation pump with a temp sensor?