The first is a pic of my valvetrain from when I pulled my valve covers off yesterday.... does it look that bad?? What can I do to get rid of all that gunk?? By the way, I have used Mobil 1 full synthetic for the past 30k since I bought the car, it now has about 108k on it.

The second is a pic of the tips of my injectors. Do they look like they need to go to Rick at cruzinperformance?? Any honest opinions are greatly appreciated.

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...580&p=45776254


http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...580&p=45776258
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Kevin Irving
85 Trans Am WS-6, 305 TPI, custom burned '86 PROM with '87 "165"ECM, Accel Supercoil & 8.8 Wires, MSD 6AL, Aluminum Driveshaft, Wonderbar, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Plenum, Modified MAF, Syclone Fuel Pump, JET Airfoil

15.556 @ 86.65mph, Nov 10, 2000.... I know it sucks.. but it will get better!

http://www.geocities.com/transam85tpi/

Member - The Tidewater Trans Am Club, Norfolk VA http://www.geocities.com/ttacva/

[This message has been edited by Kevin Irving (edited April 04, 2001).]

 

those links weren't active.

[This message has been edited by John Boy (edited April 04, 2001).]

 

They're fixed now.... thanks

 

HA HA looks like the prevois owner used Penzoil!
are you going to get the heads rebuilt?
If so dont wory about the build up.
If not K&W has some 10 min engine flush use it for the next 3 oil changes and it should take about 80% of that build up off.
injectors dont look that bad just try some 44k injector cleaner "dont use the cheap crap" as long as they funtion properly the out side appearance inst important.
Good luck Kevin!

 

Yes that K&W stuff owrks awesome. Autozone sells it for about 8 bux. Its really easy to use, you dont have to remove anything.

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1983 Firebird
TH700R4 Auto
Small Block 400
LG4 ECM, Intake, Carb, Distributor, etc.
Soon to be non-computer.
Clarion Head Unit 45X4
2 Pioneer 400W 12" Subs
Third Gen Performance
"A four cylinder is half an engine."

 

Thanks Super, I won't be taking off the heads, even though I want to, this is my daily driver and I don't have the time or money to take them in and have them done like I want to.... I've used BG44K before, I guess a few more times won't hurt. Well, hopefully I'll be getting my valve seals tomorrow..... this should be A LOT of fun

 

The gunk really isn't all that bad. For a motor with that many miles on it, it's alot better than most.

ATF in your oil will eat that stuff out of there over a period of time. When you change your oil, use a quart of it instead of oil. You wont believe how much gook will come out the next time you change your oil.

Definitely get your injectors serviced. The difference will astound you. Actually, a better udea might be to hang out on the classifieds at the Corral and get somebody's out of their 302; they're Denso which are vastly superior to that Multec crap. Get a set of those and get them cleaned and flow-matched instead.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

Thanks Ward & RB, I couldn't believe that crap when I took off the valve covers. I think I'll try a little bit of both next time I change the oil. It shouldn't hurt the new valve seals that I will be putting on there, should it?

Another thing, while I have the valve covers off I was thinking about going and changing the rockers to get away from that stamped steel crap. What would you recommend? I want to use something that I will be able to take off later and transfer them to a 350 when I eventually drop that in there. Would you recommend 1.6's? I've heard that the stock ones are supposed to be 1.5, but that due to flexing they are probably about 1.4 or 1.35. Thanks a lot guys, you've all been a great help.

And by the way.... the injectors are in a box headed for cruzin performance.... My mech friend tested the fuel press for me last week and found that I lose pressure with either line pinched, so I know that at least one injector is leaking, and that I have a leak back in the pump. I was thinking about installing a 40 psi relief valve in the return line.... would that work?

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Kevin Irving
85 Trans Am WS-6, 305 TPI, custom burned '86 PROM with '87 "165"ECM, Accel Supercoil & 8.8 Wires, MSD 6AL, Aluminum Driveshaft, Wonderbar, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Plenum, Modified MAF, Syclone Fuel Pump, JET Airfoil

15.556 @ 86.65mph, Nov 10, 2000.... I know it sucks.. but it will get better!

http://www.geocities.com/transam85tpi/

Member - The Tidewater Trans Am Club, Norfolk VA http://www.geocities.com/ttacva/

 

Did you ever overheat the motor? Looks a little like varnish.

Be careful using motor flushes. Actually maybe don't!!! All these compounds are is kerosene and it breaks all that sh;t off all at once. And it goes right to the pickup screen and plugs it.

I sent a '79 gran prix to hell by using a motor flush. I followed the directions to a T. Idled it, drained it, filled it with fresh motor oil and handed my buddy the keys. (He thought the idiot oil light was broke). I drove behind him for 6 miles before she seized right up. I checked the motor oil and burned my finger on the dipstick tube (plumes of smoke bellowed from the tube) and the oil was right on the money.

Pulled the pan off and saw 20 years of sludge (it looked only slightly worse than your picture) stuck in the screen. Along with some silicone, but mostly it was that stuff.

A suggestion is if it really bothers you why not drain the oil and with a brush your sure the bristles wont fall off (not wire) scrub it with kerosene. Leave the drain plug out and let it all run out. Give it a good rinse. You should get the lifter valley too, but this involves taking off the intake, and if your to this point.......


I never heard of the trans fluid trick, but the fluid does dissolve deposits more gradually (not chunks breaking off) and is definatly safe for rubber seals and whatnot.

It's a gamble. It might payoff or you might pay-out.

 

Well I'm about to take this thing 3000 miles across the country, and then it will sit for about 6 months while I go out on deployment, the wife will start it up occasionally, and maybe by the time I get back I'll have the money to either rebuild it or drop a 350 in there... I just don't know whether to roll the dice on this one though...

I'd hate to get stranded somewhere like I did in my Toy truck last time I transferred... Moving from Pensacola to Norfolk and blew a head gasket halfway through the trip..... I was stuck in LaGrange, GA for 3 days while I got it fixed.

 

I don't like the engine flush because it's not a lubricant, and it has a tendency to just knock the stuff off in big chunks which then end up pluggin gup oil pump screens, filters, drainback passages, etc. Which reminds me - make sure the drainback holes are clear. They're in the ends of the heads, near the bottom corners of teh valve cover rails; there's a hidden head bolt nest to each one.

New rockers are a great idea, and they will transfer over to a 350. You could step up to 1.6s, I doubt they would make a big difference compared to 1.5s, but they're the same price. With the stock cam you probably don't have to wory about the valve springs too much even with the higher ratio. Good ones will definitely help the motor out by maikng all 8 cylinders consistent, if nothing else. I'd recommend the Comp steel roller-tip ones. Don't fool around with stamped sheet metal ones, you're right about those, they are a liability.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

Cool, I'll check those drainback holes when I get home tonight.... what do I do, stick a piece of stiff wire down there to make sure they're clear? Anyhing else I should do while I have the valve covers off?? I don't want to do this again for a while!!

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Kevin Irving
85 Trans Am WS-6, 305 TPI, custom burned '86 PROM with '87 "165"ECM, Accel Supercoil & 8.8 Wires, MSD 6AL, Aluminum Driveshaft, Wonderbar, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Plenum, Modified MAF, Syclone Fuel Pump, JET Airfoil

15.556 @ 86.65mph, Nov 10, 2000.... I know it sucks.. but it will get better!

http://www.geocities.com/transam85tpi/

Member - The Tidewater Trans Am Club, Norfolk VA http://www.geocities.com/ttacva/

 

That's about it, except adjust the valves when you get it running. Just use a short piece of muffler bracket to clean the wires.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports