Has any one ever removed the weight from the flex plate while in car? Any tips? It looks like it is sonic welded and maybe I can grind the welds down. My concern is damage and other risks to the rotating assembly.

Just a little background. When my motor was at the shop they didn't use my flexplate because it was off the old motor, a 2pc rear main. After a couple returns and lack of success I ended up keeping a GM plate which had a weight only because the sales man said that was there only to compensate for crank flange being removed even for internally balanced motor. So I used it, now my engine builder say cut it off!

 

If this is a motor with a 1-pc rear main seal, and the flex plate is for a 1-pc RMS, leave it on. It belongs there.

 

the bolt patterns are differant between one piece and two piece rear seal blocks, plus the one pice seal block flex palte uses a dowell to index the flex plate. whatever you do removing the weight isn't it, but finding a new engine builder may be

 

Another good reason to find someone new is there were 3 intake bolts 1/4-3/4 turn loose and I had to change the oil twice. Hopefully thats all...

Then he reminded that for 500 dollars he could have dyno it and worked all these bugs out...like this is normal problems or I am that stupid...I told him when I budgeted for 4k and spent 6k on a new motor in order to get what I wanted I couldn't justify the dyno unless you predicted problems from the beginning then would have been a good time for that discussion.

I found a die grinder bit that looks like an end mill in my wife dads old tool box. I was new and working pretty good, trouble now is finding another one at least it is getting dull.

 

Don't cut it off. It belongs there.

 

Why would it belong there if he didn't use one when he set up the motor originally? Also it is supposed to be internally balanced...

 

It belongs there. It's part of the motor's internal balance. The stock internal balance I might add. I don't believe it's even possible to balance one of those motors without it, unless you use Mallory metal, or cut the crank rather brutally.

Before you cut it off because your motor shop says to, make sure they're ready to R&R it at no charge to you for parts or labor, when it turns out that the motor has vibes.

 

If this helps the motor already has a viberation and he is positive that he balanced it internally without a weighted flex plate. We looked over the timing and ignition basics and then this came up.

It isn't a stock crank it is an eagle forged crank, what is mallory metal anyway?

 

It's some kind of alloy of real heavy metals; I don't know exactly what's in it. It's what they use to balance things when there's not enough space to balance them with steel or iron..... they drill a hole, melt some, pour it in, and plug it up. It's REAL $$$$$$$$$$ ..... couple hundred dollars worth to balance a crank if you have to use it, usually.

 

sounds to me like you engine builder intercoursed you and your engine

WAG mallory metal may be or an alloy of tantalumn price is around 300 dollars a pound and it has a very high denesity.