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305 just built,hard to turn over

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Old Apr 12, 2001 | 06:30 PM
  #1  
dhirocz's Avatar
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From: Hinesville, GA USA
Car: '86 IROC-Z/'94 Z28
Engine: 350 LT1/382 LT1
Transmission: 4L60-E/T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.45/3.42 (soon 4.10)
305 just built,hard to turn over

I just built the 305 that was a TPI in my '86 IROC. I used some parts I had like a 2040 Compucam, new lifters, pushrods, springs, bearings, seals, damper, etc...the engine was cleaned and re-used, but this will be a mule, for use in a truck. It'll be carbed. The heads were machined only 200 miles ago. The crank and rotating assy are all from the same 305, with new rings and bearings. I have never assembled a motor without new or freshly machined parts, except this one.

Problem is, the longblock is already asembled. It's so stiff it's almost, but not quite, impossible to turn over on an engine stand. I was told this was normal since I'm using all std. bearings and it's fresh, but damn, it's stiff! Worried that the starter won't crank it. I triple-checked all clearances and ALL fasteners are torqued properly to spec. What could be causing this problem? I think it's due to drag in the cylinders because I just honed it and put in new rings...Anybody experience this problem? As I said, I never have assembled a non-machined motor, so this is a first-time experience. Everything's lubed properly. I'm thinking it may loosen up after running awhile, but don't wan't to chance it. I know the rotating assembly is OK. The block was thoughly pressure-cleaned though, as were the heads.

???



[This message has been edited by dhirocz (edited April 12, 2001).]
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Old Apr 12, 2001 | 07:05 PM
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Well, you could put the starter on it, hook up a battery, and find out if the starter will turn it over. Which is not a bad idea anyway; put an oil filter on it and a distributor in it, and spin it for a little while to prime it.

Usually if you can turn it at all by hand, a decent starter and a good hot battery will have no problems.

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Old Apr 12, 2001 | 08:06 PM
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i usually use a 17" ratchet to spin new engine with on the stand, most are pretty tight, what ever pretty tight is. wit hall the pistons in and the heads on and the plugs in it takes a lot to turn the crank.

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Old Apr 13, 2001 | 01:41 AM
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Lifters to tight?

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Old Apr 13, 2001 | 10:26 AM
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From: Hinesville, GA USA
Car: '86 IROC-Z/'94 Z28
Engine: 350 LT1/382 LT1
Transmission: 4L60-E/T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.45/3.42 (soon 4.10)
Nah, I haven't adjusted the lifters yet, I was going to but couldn't turn it over...I turned it over yesterday, got easier after I primed it. So I'm not worried about it...I was told with std. size rings and bearings, they get real stiff until they've run for 15 minutes or so. I'm installing it tomorrow. We'll see how good she runs!
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Old Apr 13, 2001 | 10:31 AM
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From: Hinesville, GA USA
Car: '86 IROC-Z/'94 Z28
Engine: 350 LT1/382 LT1
Transmission: 4L60-E/T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.45/3.42 (soon 4.10)
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by RB83L69:
Well, you could put the starter on it, hook up a battery, and find out if the starter will turn it over. Which is not a bad idea anyway; put an oil filter on it and a distributor in it, and spin it for a little while to prime it.

</font>

I wish I could, but the flexplate won't fit while it's on the workstand. Good idea, though. It'd have to be done on the crane, but then it could swing around. Could probably be done on a storage stand, though.
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Old Apr 13, 2001 | 07:10 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by RB83L69:
Well, you could put the starter on it, hook up a battery, and find out if the starter will turn it over. Which is not a bad idea anyway; put an oil filter on it and a distributor in it, and spin it for a little while to prime it.

Usually if you can turn it at all by hand, a decent starter and a good hot battery will have no problems.

</font>

It sounds like a good idea, but it's also a great way to eat a flat tappet cam shaft alive. You need to primer it correctly, don't try running the starter on it all that long, just to get it to turn. My motor was so tight after it was built that the starter nose broke. Make sure that you don't have any dirt/grime inbetween the bearings, that will cause an extreme lock-up.


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Old Apr 13, 2001 | 11:59 PM
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From: Hinesville, GA USA
Car: '86 IROC-Z/'94 Z28
Engine: 350 LT1/382 LT1
Transmission: 4L60-E/T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.45/3.42 (soon 4.10)
Hmmm...didn't think of that, but makes sense. Yes, it would prime the motor and work great for a roller motor, but all the break-in lube would dissapear. That should have come up and smacked me in the face. I did prime the motor and it loosened up some, so it's easier to turn it. The bearings were clean when I put them in, as was the crank.As I said, I know the rotating assembly was decent since it was running when pulled (for unrelated reasons). Mental note to self...when building a motor with std. bearings and rings, prime before adjusting the valves. helps. Probably not a bad idea with any motor, but helps more here. Thanks



[This message has been edited by dhirocz (edited April 13, 2001).]
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