I'm working on my buddy's P.O.S. Chrysler LeBarron, and I cant get the bolt holding down the harmonic balancer. I've used my 1/2" impact, with 120psi, and it just sat there and did nothing. Any ideas?

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Rob
'86 TA 305 TPI
Gutted MAF, Ported Plenum
TB Bypass, Home made Cold Air Intake,
Edelbrock T.E.S.

 

left hand threads? just a guess since i never worked on one. long long time ago i worked as a mechanic for a dodge dealer and chrysper products had a few left hand threads on them, drove me nuts. try a breaker bar too and hold the flex plate or dampner somehow to keep it from moving.

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ICON Motorsports

1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM

 

Hit the head of the bolt with a hammer. A lot of times this jars the bolt loose. Dont go over board though...

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We are the future, the 21st. century dislexyic, glue sniffing, cyber *****, with homicidal minds and handguns.

 

Don't know about left hand threads, I tried the impact in both directions. Good idea about the hammer though, thanks. So far, I've tried using vice grips on the balancer (its really thin) where the vice grips will hit the oil pan and stop. Then use the breaker bar to turn it, wound up spinning the outer part of the harmonic balancer, NOT GOOD!

 

Don't know how smart this idea is, but I've heard it, and if that's left hand threads, don't try it!

I heard of someone putting a breaker bar & socket on the balancer bolt, and then positioning the breaker bar so it would wedge itself against the floor. So as you stare at the crank, the bar would be pointed to the right, down against the floor. I suppose you probably have to spin the engine a bit to get the breaker bar to stay against the floor. Then, the person cranked the engine. The force of the engine loosened the bolt.

But, this sounds like a good way to (1) snap the bolt, (2) throw the bar/socket into the air, (3) get yourself injured! I wouldn't do it, but it is an option, I guess... Has anyone tried this (or heard of someone getting killed from it)?

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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

[This message has been edited by TomP (edited April 13, 2001).]

 

i cant say id do that but man it would be fun to watch if it indeed didnt go right

heheheh im sick

 

Ive seen mechanics use the starter to break the crank bolt loose and then just make the bolt hand tight because they had no way to hold back on the pulley. I was taught to use a big pair of pliers usually 20 inch pair to hold the edge of the pulley and use a beaker bar to loosen the bolt. Also when installing this way makes it easy to torque the bolt down to spec which is recommened because its very easy to over torque the bolt and do damage to the crank.

 

You have to be careful, but the breaker bar and socket on the bolt does work...
Make sure the path is clear, that the bar will hit something nice and solid like the frame, and tap the starter. I busted an impact wrench, 3 1/2" rachets, and a 3/8" rachet. The breaker bar still has a small dent in it from where it hit the frame, but watching it swing back and forth after I tapped the starter was a pretty sight

 

I'm a mechanic, and don't recommend the breaker bar/starter technique. I do think locking the engine (from turning over) and using an extra-long breaker bar is good. Mine is over 3' long, but works wonders. Also cost a pretty penny. I keep heavy-duty pipe for extra leverage (just in case). Either way, try to go at it with leverage first. The breaker bar technique may work, but can damage parts and people in the process...gook luck