Okay, that 2.8/2.8 swap I did has a problem- we can't find the EST bypass wire! I imagine the previous owner (in his hacking-up of the original wiring) must've replaced the connector with a wire; we cant' find it. The timing spec should be 10 degrees BTDC. Now, hypothetically, could I do this?

1. Raise #1 to TDC, so I get balancer mark to point to 0 degrees
2. Drop the distributor in so the rotor points to the #1 cap terminal

Would this result in "perfect" base timing? The balancer's in good shape; at #1 TDC, the mark points to 0 degrees, so it's not like the outer ring has shifted. Thanks!


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

it's not 100% accurate but it's close if you set the timing to give you the largest reading on a vacuum gauge.

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ICON Motorsports

1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM

 

On some of the 3rd gens, you discoonect the 4wire plug at the distributor to bypass the EST, but I odn't know about your 2.8?

 

On the multiport-injected V6's, there's an EST bypass connector that should be located in the main engine harness, against the firewall, by the blower motor. However, it's not there, and we searched the loom for it. We'll have to dig to find the wire (which I hope is still there). There was a hack-job done to the wiring.. the previous owner eliminated VATS in a Very, Very, screwed up way! The guy obviously had no clue what he was doing! So I imagine the same guy clipped the connector off; I just hope he didn't leave the wires cut.

Ed, thanks for the info; I think we're going to bite the bullet & do some wire tracing this weekend. I'll be sure to bring my vacuum gauge in case we can't! (If we can't, I'll install my own damn connector! Hehe...)



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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

Tomp, try looking one more time. Look more over by the passenger side wheel well, just in front of the hinge mechanism for that side. Not up against the firewall, but more forward from there. That's where I found mine: lying on top of the wheel well sheet metal near the strut tower.

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89 IROC with lots o' stuff

-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

Thanks D, I'll check there this weekend. I didn't go that "far" over towards the fender; maybe that's just what we needed! Thanks!


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

To set the timing on the v6 FI's jumper ALDL terminals A and B together and then start the car. This is how to bypass EST on some models. Unplugging the 4pin connector is useless because the car won't start.

 

Joel,
Are you serious? That will fry the computer.

Brendan

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1987 IROC-Z L98,SuperRam,EB 6085's,LPE 219/219 Roller, Crane 1.6RR, EB TPI Base, 58mm TB, ADS 24#, AFPR, K&N, EB TES, Catco Cat, 3" Borla Cat-Back, Accel cap,rotor,distro/other crap, MSD 6AL, MSD Blaster 3, Aluminum DS, 94 Disk Rear, Adjustable Valve, Precision 3.73 Gears, Sub-Frame Connectors, Hotchkis Lower Control Arms, KYB Shocks/Struts, Suspension Techniques Lowering Springs, Polyurethan Bushings all over the place, Moog Upper/Lower Ball joints and Tie Rods ends/Idler Arm,

To see the ROC, Check out the webpage Here

 

To set base timing for all fuel injected engines (except 5.0L TPI engine)- ground diagnostic terminal (teminals A and B) in the ALDL diagnostic connector.

Thats straight from the chilton's. pg 2-34

 

Joel is correct. That will NOT fry your computer.

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1989 IROC-Z 5.7L
NOS 150HP kit
ProBuilt 700R4, PI Vigilante 2800 stall lockup
Baer Brakes 12" Sport System

 

Of course, this should be done after the engine has been started, not before. The L4s are the same way (1226869 ECMs).

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Later,
Vader
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