TomP

I was wondering if I should invest in a set of those test lights; you know, the ones that plug into the injector harness to show that the computer is sending the right signal to the injector? Is there something else I can use? Can I use a regular test light, or a digital multimeter, or make my own LED combo with a resistor & LED?

Buying the injector test lights seems to remind me of buying a $30 "code scanner" when a piece of wire and printed-out code list is all that's needed, know what I mean?

Thanks!


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

ede

hell yes

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ICON Motorsports

1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM

TomP

Haha, well, with a response that positive, I think I'll go pick up some new toys this weekend!


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

ede

tom before you run out and buy a set of, or just one noid light. all they do is show power, or a signal in the harness to the injector. the noid light takes the place on the injector. when a signal is sent to the injector the noid light will light up, or flash. easy to see from inside the car if you're trouble shooting a no start condition.

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ICON Motorsports

1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM

Enkil

Avoid the noid!!!

sorry, flashback. hehe

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89 iroc-z 305 tbi
k&n filtercharger, open element air filter. nuffin' else

Vader

Tom,

To answer your original qqestion, no. The test lights are probably not worth what you'll pay for one. Since there is in essence a capacitor, resistor, and LED mounted in a small case, you likely have about 45¢ in components.

However, the value of the time saved in diagnosing injector problems can be worth a lot more, and I'm thinking that is what you are really asking about. In that case, the cost is justified. I use an oscilloscope, so I not only see pulses, but can measure their actual width and duty cycle. A scope certainly isn't worth getting just for that purpose, but if you already have one...

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Later,
Vader
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"What a Day..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader

John Millican

iTrader: (1)

I use a 12 volt light bulb from a flashlight or running light(car bulb) with wires soldered to it. Works great. What am I missing? What would a noid light do for me?

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86 Camaro Sport
383 Speed-O-Motive Crate Engine, Raptor 700R4 Tranmission, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge G2's, 58mm Accel TB, 3.73 Auburn Pro, SLP Cold Air Induction and Headers, Dynomax Cat-back, Serpentine Belt Setup, Dual IROC Fans, Jamex springs, 16" IROC Rims, 36mm/24mm Sway Bars, Global West Steering Brace. Hotchkis Rear LCA's,Panhard Bar and SFC's.
My Camaro Project

JP84Z430HP

I have noid lights in my toolbox, but they have pretty much stayed there. No, I'm not saying they aren't worth having, but in the 6 months I've had them, I haven't used them! Another useful one that doesn't get much use is the IAC noid light.

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Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305 with 200,000 original miles!
Added dual elec fans.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
Building 430 HP 350 (ZZ430)
using primarily GMPP parts.
Short block sitting on a stand. (Man, those Fast-Burn heads sitting on it look good!)

Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!

ASE Certified Master Tech

TomP

Well, I didn't buy them... I was at the store, and paying $6 for that little plastic thing in my hand seemed strange. (Plus, the line was too damn long at the register!) I saw a new "universal" test noid light by Lisle that I might go for; it had a probe connector that could swing out for a TBI injector, or swing closed for a TPI injector. (Looks almost like a "V", it swings on it's hinge from a "-----" to a "||".) It has a large light, a long coiled wire, and a way to store the TBI adapter tip inside the housing. This one might not get lost/crunched in my toolbox, and I could drag the wire into the car to see as I turn the key.

I haven't had the occasion to use one yet either, JP84Z, but like Ede & Vader said, I think it'd be great to be able to eliminate one thing ASAP for a no-start condition. I've used my fuel pressure gauge so many times for that... if the car won't start, now, the first thing I do is check fuel pressure. I like to eliminate a system "completely", instead of thinking "hm, i guess it's firing."

Vader, what's the capacitor for inside the light? Does it act like a surge supressor and just connect parallel with the LED/resistor?

I like your idea, John; that seems pretty damn simple & effective! Wouldn't the bulb, though, pull too much current through the computer?


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

John Millican

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't think it draws any more then the fuel injector would. I have used it on a number of occasions any it works OK, just a little dim it is. I have since changed to a 6 volt bulb and it is nice and bright, easy to see in the daytime.



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86 Camaro Sport
383 Speed-O-Motive Crate Engine, Raptor 700R4 Tranmission, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge G2's, 58mm Accel TB, 3.73 Auburn Pro, SLP Cold Air Induction and Headers, Dynomax Cat-back, Serpentine Belt Setup, Dual IROC Fans, Jamex springs, 16" IROC Rims, 36mm/24mm Sway Bars, Global West Steering Brace. Hotchkis Rear LCA's,Panhard Bar and SFC's.
My Camaro Project