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Battery Power Loss With Engine Temp Increase

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Old Jul 29, 2004 | 12:32 PM
  #1  
91Z-TheReaper's Avatar
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From: Ottawa, Ontario - Canada
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 350 L98
Transmission: T5 - 5 Speed
Battery Power Loss With Engine Temp Increase

Here is what I have experienced...

I have no problems whatsoever with my car when it runs at normal temps. In the heat, in traffic, it gets hot like everyone elses. Not overheating, but hot. Anyway, as the temperature goes up, my battery power goes down. You can watch the two dials trade off on position. So the battery will drain to the point where the car will die if I can't get the engine cooled. And then it will not start again until it has managed to cool down.
I have had three different mechanics look for a problem (one of them is MY mechanic who specializes in Vettes and Camaros), but not one of them could find anything wrong.
New battery. New alternator. New wires from alt to batt etc...

Any thoughts here?
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Old Jul 30, 2004 | 12:10 AM
  #2  
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From: Oklahoma City, OK
Car: 92 Z28
Engine: 357 TPI (L98)
Transmission: 700R4
You've got a short or something, that's sapping your power. As far as I know, the battery doesn't do much but get recharged by the alternator when the car is running, so I don't see how it could be related to your engine temp. Anything else you can tell us?
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Old Jul 30, 2004 | 01:36 AM
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John Millican's Avatar
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From: Savannah, GA
Car: 1997 Jeep Wrangler
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 8.8 rear, 4.56 gears, 4:1 transfer
As an alternator heats up it's output drops off. That's most likely what's happening. Just how low is the battery voltage dropping to?
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Old Jul 30, 2004 | 02:29 AM
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From: Oklahoma City, OK
Car: 92 Z28
Engine: 357 TPI (L98)
Transmission: 700R4
Then it may be a symptom, and not a problem. Does your engine get way too hot? Check all the usual, that the fans are operating properly, that your timing is correct (trust me on this one), and that your thermostat is working properly.
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Old Jul 30, 2004 | 09:00 AM
  #5  
91Z-TheReaper's Avatar
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From: Ottawa, Ontario - Canada
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 350 L98
Transmission: T5 - 5 Speed
Its exactly like I said.
Fans work (dual). Wiring was replaced. Alternator was replaced. Battery was replaced. Thermostat was replaced w/190*. Everything has been tested and retested.

To answer one question, just how low do the volts go? Well they will go to zero because the car will die out.
It actually hasn't happened to the point of a full drain in about two months. Currently its draining to the point where I lose the stereo and you can feel the car 'losing it' as it drives.
I don't know what else to tell you guys.
Rad is good. Flushed in the spring.
On occasion, I have parked the car to go into a store, come out to fire it back up. The temp gauge is sitting right in the middle (normal), but the car thinks its too hot and will have a low charge. Enough to start it, but its robbed of power. Drive it around until the temp goes down, up goes the battery and all my power is back. Don't know what else. Thanks though guys.
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Old Jul 30, 2004 | 09:39 AM
  #6  
John Millican's Avatar
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From: Savannah, GA
Car: 1997 Jeep Wrangler
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 8.8 rear, 4.56 gears, 4:1 transfer
Originally posted by 91Z-TheReaper
To answer one question, just how low do the volts go? Well they will go to zero because the car will die out.
That's impossible. Even a fully depleted car battery can only go down to about 8 volts unless it is physically damaged.

Your volt meter should be around 13-14 while engine running, 11-12 with engine off.

Sorry to say you have a battery/charging problem still. Further troubleshooting will be required to gather more clues. You will need at least a voltmeter, preferably a digital multimeter.
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Old Jul 30, 2004 | 09:43 AM
  #7  
91Z-TheReaper's Avatar
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From: Ottawa, Ontario - Canada
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 350 L98
Transmission: T5 - 5 Speed
Obviously (voltage), I'm just making the point that it is 'dead' as far as the car is concernced.
It was tested with a digital voltmeter by my mechanic.
It sat at 12.1 every time...he said he would be happier with 13, but as far as he could tell there was nothing wrong. If it were to persist, he would have investigated more. It hasn't been an end to the world problem so I just deal.
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Old Jul 30, 2004 | 12:13 PM
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From: Oklahoma City, OK
Car: 92 Z28
Engine: 357 TPI (L98)
Transmission: 700R4
Does your car actually die when the battery drains completely, because then that points to other places, namely the power coming off the alternator.
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Old Jul 30, 2004 | 12:15 PM
  #9  
91Z-TheReaper's Avatar
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From: Ottawa, Ontario - Canada
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 350 L98
Transmission: T5 - 5 Speed
It does die. It was tested at the alternator and at that battery and everything came out good.
I guess its just one of those things that you have to try and avoid and live with.
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Old Jul 30, 2004 | 12:24 PM
  #10  
laiky's Avatar
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check/replace the fusible links. they can become a significant resistor when they get old and brittle. there job is to act as a fuse for the main power feeds to the fuse box, but they do sometimes deteriorate and and start to get hot. this will reduce the current available and cause a voltage drop. I also reccomend upgrading the alternator charging wire, i believe this might have a fusable link too, better check.

ultimately what i think is happenning is that your fans are running continuously for what ever reason and your charging system can't keep up due to a fault as discussed above.
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Old Jul 30, 2004 | 12:26 PM
  #11  
91Z-TheReaper's Avatar
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From: Ottawa, Ontario - Canada
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 350 L98
Transmission: T5 - 5 Speed
Thanks Everyone

I'll take everyones advice into consideration and tool around a bit over the weekend.
I'll let you know how it goes.
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Old Jul 31, 2004 | 02:00 AM
  #12  
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From: Southwest Chicago 'burbs
Wires also loose some ability to pass current as they heat up. Maybe get the car up to operating temp and start running VD tests on your major charging and ground wires.
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