"Before you install the chain, put it in a pan of oil with a little moly lube mixed. Then heat it up to about 200 degrees Fahrenheit for an hour or so. You'll be amazed at the difference that will make--it almost totally eliminates chain stretch."

I read this in a book on how to build a chevy race engine the other day. Seems a little bizarre to cook a timing chain, has anyone else heard of this, and should I do this to my timing chain before I put it on my engine?

 

hmm...almost reminds me of being inside an engine....

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85 Z28- 350, Comp 262, Edelbrock Performer intake, Edelbrock 600 cfm carb and Edelbrock cat back, Summit headers and vette servo
-JVC, Eclipse, Pioneer, MTX, Phoenix Gold, Planet Audio

 

Oh I thought you was baking cookies sorry

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'87 Trans Am:
(Engine)
305 TPI
180 Degree Thermostat
JET Fan Switch
TB Bypass
Accel 300+ 8.8 Racing Wires
Accel Super Coil
Bosch Platinium Plugs
Custom Ram Air with K&N
Removed Emissions Equipment & Cat.
(Stereo)
Full Kenwood Excelon System

 

i was under the impression that the timing chain should stretch a lil in order to take the abuses we put on it in stop and go and non race condition type stuff.. where u let ur foot off the gas all at once and stuff like that... i could of heard wrong but it sounds sensible to me

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91 3.1 RS.
T-Tops
12" tube in the "trunk" (That hole they call a trunk anyways)
16x8" ROH Rims
Firehawks all Around
New BOSCH plugs and wires.

Itchin for a SLP Cold Air and new catback.
Dynomax or American Thunder... dunno yet.. suggestions?

 

That trick really does help the timing chain. I don't know why but it does. Maybe it's the moly lube being 'wicked' into the rollers keeping it from heating up on initial startup and stretching or something...

 

sorry man, but that's a fable the only 'benefits' you get from a stretched chain are retarded cam timing (which severely hurts performance), rough idle from the change slopping, and your timing jumping advanced to retarded, vice versa..

just couldn't let this one go, cuff the guy who told you that in the back of his head

ttyl man,
Colin



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Webmaster: www.IROC-Z.org

 

It's called quenching,it's what you do after you heat treat something.Nice car Colin!

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Fast as a shark~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ SAVE NAPSTER!!!

 

I'd just go with a "no-bake" quiet gear drive setup from Edelbrock or equivalent........

Just my .02 cents worth......

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Phil87IROC
Blue '87 IROC, 383 Crate Motor, KB pistons, AFR 190 heads, ZZ-9 cam, Edelbrock RPM intake, Hooker SC/LT headers, Edelbrock 750 cfm Carb (#1411), stock T-5, GM 3.42 rear w/Auburn posi.
Ohio Valley Dragstrip Trophy Bracket WINNER - 8.39 ET on a 1.82 sec. - 60'. Best MPH = 84.44. Still Tuning Carb!
Red '89 IROC L98, 700R4, T-Tops, K&Ns w/open air boxes, 160 T-stat, Hyper Chip, gutted MAF, 53kv coil, MSD wires.

 

No, quenching is heating up, the dropping into cold water, causes tempering. This would sound like a mild attempt at stabilizing the metal (This should have already been done at the factory) except for the fact that 200* would be low a temp to do this. I think the oil working its way in is a more feasible reason. At around 200* the oil will become "less thick" and more easily work into the moving parts.


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Corry Lazarowitz
clazarow@voicenet.com
clazarowitz@hotmail.com
1987 Pontiac Trans AM (GTA?) 350 or is it a 305?! TPI
SLP 1 3/4" headers, 3" cat back (stock cat
MSD ignition.
MSD Blaster SS coil.
3.73 Rear end gears
Accell 8.8 Wires
Bosh +4 Spark Plugs (Don't know if they really help but hell!)
Holley AFPR
Race Built Automatic trans ('vette servo, shift kit, tightly packed clutches)--just needs titanium gears now!
Newly gutted cat (the car gutted it's own cat!)
Hypertech Chip (Just found out I had it! :eek
More soon when funds are avail...