Can any one tell me what the rubber like things that are on the end of the stock valves. I can not find those thingy mobob , whatchmacallits to replace nor know what they are called. Also what are the rubber like hose attached by a clamp thingys that are on the valve guildes on the bolt side and do they have to be replaced on this redo??
U GUYS ARE AWSOME:hail: :hail: :hail:

 

Valve seals

 

they will be on the intake only right?

Any idea on the other rubber rings the go over the vavle stems?

 

Those are the weirdly designed factory O-ring valve stem seals. Don't replace them with other O-rings. As for the others...Umbrella seals perhaps? Hard to say by the description. Both are a form of valve stem seal.

Both prevent oil from creeping down the vavle stem and getting to the chamber.

Take them off. Fel-Pro makes Viton seals of the Positive type that do not require guide boss machining. SS72527 for the intake side and SS72877 for the exhaust. Available at any Parts America stores.

 

I found these rubbber like hose things on the top the the head under the valve spring. They are about one inch long clamped on the valve guide and do not come off without force. I only found these (I think) on the intake valves only. I have not taken them off yet because 1. I dont know what they are and two I don't know if I can reuse them. As u all may have figuered this is my first head job and I am learing as I go. Thanks for the input

 

Im going to guess that they are brownish and have little metal clamps going around them. 1 clamp around the base and possible another little expand-a-ring around the top. Grab a pliers and twist and remove.

What all are you doing with the heads?

 

I Just got today new crane cam 2040 and crane springs and new intake and exhaust valve and new keepers. I am reusing the retainers. I am in the process of porting and polishing the heads now. Other than that I was not plaining to do anything......How come I feel like this is a loaded guestion? Are you going to burst my bubble with more I have to do??
Dont get me wrong thats ok.. I am a novies at this but wanted to do most of the work myself. I am sure u understand that

 

I'm not going to burst any bubbles. Sounds like you are rebuilding the heads on top of the P&P work.

 

Here I go through a spiel because I thought u were going to tell me something I am forgetting.
As for the clamped on rubber things .. u said to take them off. Do I replace them or not and do they have a name? U described them perfectly. Why did they do away with those o-ring seals ont eh valve steims? any Idea

 

They are valve stem seals. O-rings are also valve stem seals, however, they are mediocre, at best. Take them both off and replace them with the 2 Fel-Pro part numbers i listed above.

These little rubber bands with metal clamps, are they around the valve itself of the guide boss? I'm willing to bet that they ride the valve stem, in which case they are the umbrella design.

Why did they get rid of O-rings for the better Positive design? Emissions and oil control. Burning oil creates hydrocarbons. Hydrocarbons is emissions. Emissions are bad.

 

U are right about where they are. what they do...As always.I hope u don't waist all your talent on this site. I hope u apply it to your car. I see how bad it looks I hope U get it back.

 

Fel Pro SS72527
Premium; Intake
1 Year Replacement Warranty Find in a store Ships in 1 day
Weight: 0.3 lbs. $11.48

Fel Pro SS72877
Premium; Exhaust; Optional High Temperature
1 Year Replacement Warranty Ships in 1 day
Weight: 0.1 lbs. $17.88

Those are the ones that I used on my heads. Fel-Pro Viton seals. There are non-high temp seals available for a lower cost. I have never used them so I have no knowledge about them.

Fel Pro SS72526
Premium; Exhaust
1 Year Replacement Warranty Find in a store Ships in 1 day
Weight: 0.3 lbs. $7.97

And far my car, I'll get her back...someday. The thing is, what happened to the car is a bit more than "engine damage."

Check your PMs

 

Stekman,

I have installed the o-ring type, but not these other kind. Is there a special tool to use or just lube and slide on the end of the valve stem?

I will be doing this with the heads on the car, so any tips would be helpful.

Thanks,

 

Just open the package and slide them on. I use a deep socket and "pound" them into place. They sllide over the valve stem and seat over the guide boss. Unlike O-rigs and umbrella types, they don't ride up and down the valve. They sit stationary on the guide boss.



Click the appropriate link in my sig. It's a word file (still a 'rough draft')

 

A picture is worth a thousand words...it makes complete sense now. I have done valve spring swaps and replaced regular valve stem seals before...this will just be a tiny bit different

The link in your sig to the valve stem swap article doesn't work....could you please email it to me at adam.stendahl@cbre.com?

Thanks!

 

The links should work now. But E-mail has been sent anyway. Enjoy!

 

I just looked over the document and it is perfect. Since I have never replaced these on the engine before, I had an idea how to do it, but the article fills in the gaps...

One thing you didn't mention in the article...did you use some motor oil to lube the seal when installing it? To ensure you don't tear it or anything?

 

I never have. I just take them out of the package and pop them on.

*makes note to change write-up*

 

OK...I probably will use a bit of oil just to be on the safe side...

Thanks!

 

What heads are these going on?

 

Stock L98 heads.

 

I just installed a set of Sealed Power positive type seals and they came with a "clear plastic tube" to slide over the valve stem to protect the inside of the seal from getting "gouged". I have used these for years. When that intake valve opens and starts drawing in the fuel it doesn't take much of a scratch to let oil in. The valve locks sometime do some damage to the valve stem groves. You can feel the sharp raised edge on the valve lock grove and I use a small file to remove them. I use 80w-90 rearend lube on the valve and seat and everything else when I assy. the heads. I use the heavy lube because sometime the heads arn't used right away. I use the positive type seals on both the int. and exh. but don't use the o-rings.

Auggie

 

Just out of curiousity here, are the exhaust seals supposed to look like the intake ones?

Reason being is that the parts store could find a seperate set of exhaust seals (Fel Pro #ss72877) and stole a pack out of a head kit with supposedly the same part #.

However, the exhaust seals do not look like the intake seals, instead, I think that they are the umbrella type seal. Should they have a ring type clip and spring on them as well? The ones that I have look more whitish.

Since I have already done a few cylinders, it is bad just to continue as is? I am putting the "umbrella" type seals on the exhaust along with the o-rings...since the stock o ring seals on the exhaust are rock hard and the intake ones aren't much better, this should be a big improvement.

Also, this engine has two cylinder where the compression test showed slighly more than 10% difference in the oil vs no oil test, so I am sure to have slight oil consumption anyway.

If this was a newly rebuilt engine, I would be more concerned.
Should I be fine as is?

Also, how hard do I push on the intake seals themselves? I am using a socket and wondering how compressed they should be? Just so they are firmly mounted on the guide itself?

 

88TPI, I use the posative type seals on both the int and exh valve guides and they do all look the same but I leave out the o-rings. I don't see any problem using those umbrella type seals on the exh guides with new o-rings and valve spring shields (oil shredders).

Auggie

 

What is an oil shredder? Shedder?

I am using the Comp retainers, locks & springs...along with the seals...that is it.

 

If you look at a stock 305 setup you will see a tin umbrella that goes between the retainer and the valve spring. It covers about 1/3 of the top of the valve spring. Most of the oil that is coming from the pushrod and rocker arm is shielded from the valve guide. If you are not useing these I would use the positive type seals on the exh also without the o-rings. Your choise.

Auggie

 

Auggie, you hit the nail on the head in describing the "tin umbrella". Basically it won't fit with the Comp 981 valvesprings & Comp retainers anyway. I decided to use the umbrella seals and the o-rings that I already have, on the exhaust side. The intake side I am using the positive seals & the o-rings, so no problem there.

I actually live in Rockford...Are you involved with www.mnfbody.com? Someday when I have an F-body on the road again, I will start coming to meetings

Thanks,

 

88, you are right on that. The inside dia. of the shields are to small for them retainers. I am not involved with the MNfbody but I check out their web site often. Good luck with your rebuild.

Auggie

 

Auggie...thanks for your input...

Hopefully it should work out just fine.... I will have to post progress.

Thanks,