Fat 350!!!!!!
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Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 305
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Fat 350!!!!!!
Alright i need some serious help and advice here. I have a 91 Z28 with a tpi 350 pretty much stock. All i have is 25# injectors, headers, a flowmaster exhaust, 8.5 wires and a msd ignition.
So my question is what should i do as far as rebuilding my 350 ?
I have $4000 but i dont really want to spend it on just the block.
Maybe NOS too!!!
So my question is what should i do as far as rebuilding my 350 ?
I have $4000 but i dont really want to spend it on just the block.
Maybe NOS too!!!
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Car: 1984 z28 ?iroc z? camaro
Engine: 305
Transmission: auto
if it were me, i would buy an engine rebuild kit and then i would do that, then buy some new heads for the nos and then get a good nos system. im pretty sure that would work but you might need new o rings so the current ones dont warp.but really i would put all 4 grand into the engine, i dont care for nos, like you could make the 350 a hemi or something like that or buy a rebuild kit for a grand and then get an in hood blower or something like that.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Set aside about a grand of your budget for exhaust - headers, cat, and cat-back. Ceramic coated headers and y-pipe cost a little more, but the benefits are well worth it.
Now, why do you think you need a rebuild? What is "wrong"? Or, are you just wanting to improve it?
Reason I ask is a rebuild may not be necessary. If you go with nitrous, an argument could be made for forged pistions, increased ring gap, and the like. But, if you keep the spray level down and supported with adequate fuel, you can make pretty impressive gains with nothing more than nitrous.
However, for general overall performance improvement, you'd be better off spending the money left after exhaust on things like head and plenum porting, better valves & valve springs, and cam replacement. PROM tuning equipment is a great performance $'s investment as well. Then you can start saving for base & runners, and other TPI improvement parts.
Now, why do you think you need a rebuild? What is "wrong"? Or, are you just wanting to improve it?
Reason I ask is a rebuild may not be necessary. If you go with nitrous, an argument could be made for forged pistions, increased ring gap, and the like. But, if you keep the spray level down and supported with adequate fuel, you can make pretty impressive gains with nothing more than nitrous.
However, for general overall performance improvement, you'd be better off spending the money left after exhaust on things like head and plenum porting, better valves & valve springs, and cam replacement. PROM tuning equipment is a great performance $'s investment as well. Then you can start saving for base & runners, and other TPI improvement parts.
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,025
Likes: 1
From: Evansville,IN,USA
Car: 89' T/A, 00' Firehawk
Engine: 406 Roller
Transmission: TH700R4 w/2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi
Originally posted by 1984z28irocz
if it were me, i would buy an engine rebuild kit and then i would do that, then buy some new heads for the nos and then get a good nos system. im pretty sure that would work but you might need new o rings so the current ones dont warp.but really i would put all 4 grand into the engine, i dont care for nos, like you could make the 350 a hemi or something like that or buy a rebuild kit for a grand and then get an in hood blower or something like that.
if it were me, i would buy an engine rebuild kit and then i would do that, then buy some new heads for the nos and then get a good nos system. im pretty sure that would work but you might need new o rings so the current ones dont warp.but really i would put all 4 grand into the engine, i dont care for nos, like you could make the 350 a hemi or something like that or buy a rebuild kit for a grand and then get an in hood blower or something like that.
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Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 305
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
i dont have to have nitrious. I just need some help on rebuilding my engine.
Like should i keep my stock heads?
Are my heads vortec just because their centerbolt?
Can and should i stroke?
what type of pistons should i use ?
Like should i keep my stock heads?
Are my heads vortec just because their centerbolt?
Can and should i stroke?
what type of pistons should i use ?
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Again, why do you think it needs to be rebuilt?
If you "stroke" it, then you'll be "rebuilding" it, most likely. That's because most stroker kits include .030"-over pistons. It will also pretty much double the cost of a standard "rebuild".
All Vortecs are centerbolt. Not all centerbolts are Vortecs. Vortecs are truck engines - do you have a truck? (Okay, straight answer: You don't have Vortec heads.)
You need to decide right now whether or not you want to go with nitrous. If yes, that will dictate some other things you need to do and some you shouldn't. For instance, hypereutectic pistons are a great choice for a rebuild or stroker, but not if you plan on using nitrous. If you simply go nitrous, your stock cast pistons will be fine if you keep the mixture from leaning out. If you rebuild and will be using nitrous, then use forged pistons.
For $4000, here's what I would recommend:
Coat your current headers & y-pipe: From our sponsor ACS, above, about $250.
Pull the heads, port them, valve job with improved valve springs, valve seals, and screw-in rocker studs, about $700.
Port the plenum & base while the heads are off (no additional cost if you're doing this yourself). Add $380 if you decide to go with the Edelbrock base instead.
Crane or Comp roller compucam, about $325 with timing set (you should be able to reuse your existing roller lifters).
Larger shorter runners, about $400.
Gaskets: At least $100.
Little things like oil pump, hoses, etc.: Give yourself $200.
Now, not all performance $'s should be spent on the engine. You need to address the rest of the car:
Higher stall torque converter to take advantage of your new cam, about $500-$700 (the higher priced Vig would be a good choice here).
Subframe connectors: I like the ones from our sponsor, Spohn, above. About $200 to your door.
Gears: I don't recall hearing what you have, assuming a 10-bolt with 3.08 open and going to 3.42 w/posi, you're looking at about $800 to get it all installed, assuming the bearings and axles are okay.
That's pretty much your budget. You still need PROM burning equipment, poly bushings, boxed LCAs, air inlet improvement, brake improvements, etc. Except for the gear installation and part of the valve job, none of this includes labor.
And you haven't spent a penny yet "rebuilding" the shortblock...
If you "stroke" it, then you'll be "rebuilding" it, most likely. That's because most stroker kits include .030"-over pistons. It will also pretty much double the cost of a standard "rebuild".
All Vortecs are centerbolt. Not all centerbolts are Vortecs. Vortecs are truck engines - do you have a truck? (Okay, straight answer: You don't have Vortec heads.)
You need to decide right now whether or not you want to go with nitrous. If yes, that will dictate some other things you need to do and some you shouldn't. For instance, hypereutectic pistons are a great choice for a rebuild or stroker, but not if you plan on using nitrous. If you simply go nitrous, your stock cast pistons will be fine if you keep the mixture from leaning out. If you rebuild and will be using nitrous, then use forged pistons.
For $4000, here's what I would recommend:
Coat your current headers & y-pipe: From our sponsor ACS, above, about $250.
Pull the heads, port them, valve job with improved valve springs, valve seals, and screw-in rocker studs, about $700.
Port the plenum & base while the heads are off (no additional cost if you're doing this yourself). Add $380 if you decide to go with the Edelbrock base instead.
Crane or Comp roller compucam, about $325 with timing set (you should be able to reuse your existing roller lifters).
Larger shorter runners, about $400.
Gaskets: At least $100.
Little things like oil pump, hoses, etc.: Give yourself $200.
Now, not all performance $'s should be spent on the engine. You need to address the rest of the car:
Higher stall torque converter to take advantage of your new cam, about $500-$700 (the higher priced Vig would be a good choice here).
Subframe connectors: I like the ones from our sponsor, Spohn, above. About $200 to your door.
Gears: I don't recall hearing what you have, assuming a 10-bolt with 3.08 open and going to 3.42 w/posi, you're looking at about $800 to get it all installed, assuming the bearings and axles are okay.
That's pretty much your budget. You still need PROM burning equipment, poly bushings, boxed LCAs, air inlet improvement, brake improvements, etc. Except for the gear installation and part of the valve job, none of this includes labor.
And you haven't spent a penny yet "rebuilding" the shortblock...
Last edited by five7kid; Aug 17, 2004 at 10:10 AM.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Since none of this has anything to do with engine swapping, it's getting moved as well.
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