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2 quick Q's on L98/700R4 install

Old Oct 10, 2004 | 04:44 PM
  #1  
Anniversary-Z-man's Avatar
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From: Palos Hills, IL USA
Car: 1992 25th Anniversary Z28
Engine: 6.3L - 383
Transmission: 700R4; Vig 3200
2 quick Q's on L98/700R4 install

We're ready to get the new 383 in this upcoming weekend....I bolted the new flexplate and PI torque con. on in prep. for the trans bolt up. Well I had this bracket in my bag with the trans bolts and I can't remember what it's for. Here are some pics of it....Can anyone ID it?










Q #2 - Is the top threaded bolt hole used for anything or is it just there for decoration? There are only 6 bolt holes on the bellhousing and 7 on the engine......wtf?





Thanks!
- Joel
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Old Oct 10, 2004 | 05:37 PM
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From: Aridzona
Car: `86 SS / `87 SS
Engine: L69 w/ TPI on top / 305 4bbl
Transmission: `95 T56 \ `88 200-4R
Remove your torque converter from the flexplate. You don't install the tq. converter to the engine first. Those three are the last bolts. Also, I hope you know to spin the converter onto the input so that it's fully seated before bolting the trans. down to the engine.

The bracket is to hold the ECM harness against the firewall.
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Old Oct 10, 2004 | 06:02 PM
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From: Bonner Springs, KS
Car: 1995 Corvette
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 6 spd Manual
Axle/Gears: Dana 44, 3:45:1
I believe that bracket gets installed into one of the two upper bellhousing bolts (yes it still holds the wiring harness).
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Old Oct 10, 2004 | 06:04 PM
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Car: `86 SS / `87 SS
Engine: L69 w/ TPI on top / 305 4bbl
Transmission: `95 T56 \ `88 200-4R
thanks thirdgen for the accurate answer. mea culpa
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Old Oct 10, 2004 | 06:05 PM
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actually, shouldn't you have two of those brackets for the harness? And has anyone else wondered why they made that loom oval in shape? the wires contained in the loom could easily fit in a regular round one....
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Old Oct 10, 2004 | 06:09 PM
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Car: `86 SS / `87 SS
Engine: L69 w/ TPI on top / 305 4bbl
Transmission: `95 T56 \ `88 200-4R
Also

the top bellhousing bolt was originally used on the Chevy and cars had a plate on the tunnel that you could remove to access that bolt. I don't believe it was used past the late 50's or early 60's. Then, because of the proximity to the #8 bore in the Gen III engines, they deleted the top right bolt, and began using it again.
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Old Oct 10, 2004 | 07:31 PM
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From: Bonner Springs, KS
Car: 1995 Corvette
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 6 spd Manual
Axle/Gears: Dana 44, 3:45:1
Originally posted by 1320 Right Ln.
actually, shouldn't you have two of those brackets for the harness? And has anyone else wondered why they made that loom oval in shape? the wires contained in the loom could easily fit in a regular round one....
I think they are oval so it is easier to disconnect them with the engine in place (clearance between firewall and engine).. I don't recall specifically whether my L98 has one or two of those brackets (I think just one), but I do know that my brother's '91 L03 has two.
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Old Oct 10, 2004 | 10:35 PM
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From: VA
Car: '91 Z28
Engine: L98 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 323's
yes, there are 2 of those brackets for the ecm harness. mine won't be there when the eng/trans go back in - they're being relocated behind the heads...

KAM
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Old Oct 11, 2004 | 02:09 PM
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From: Palos Hills, IL USA
Car: 1992 25th Anniversary Z28
Engine: 6.3L - 383
Transmission: 700R4; Vig 3200
Thanks for the replies guys!
JMD: Thanks for the info re. the converter!!!! You saved me alot of trouble! I've never done a converter install and did a search online on what to do and even searched my '92 GM Camaro Service manual but found nothing! After work today the converter will be unbolted and slid onto the trans shaft for mating to the block!

I was thinking that there is possibly supposed to be 2 of these brackets for the harness.....so I guess I'll just flip a coin and decide which trans bolt I'll put this bracket onto.....if anyone's got a spare pls. shoot me an email though!

Thanks,
- Joel
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Old Oct 11, 2004 | 03:59 PM
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From: VA
Car: '91 Z28
Engine: L98 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 323's
those brackets go on either side of the center hole that ISN'T used to mount the trans to block. if i remember correctly, the trans dipstick goes with the one on the right, so you'll have that bracket and mounting tab to deal with...

KAM
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Old Oct 11, 2004 | 06:03 PM
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From: Palos Hills, IL USA
Car: 1992 25th Anniversary Z28
Engine: 6.3L - 383
Transmission: 700R4; Vig 3200
Makes sense to me....thanks thunderstick!

I have proceeded to remove the converter form the flexplate and have placed it on the trans....I kept turning the converter until it kept moving further onto the shaft....it moved about 3 times and it seems like it's all the way onto the shaft now awaiting the engine!!

Is there anything else I should know that you guys can think of?? This has been my first engine/trans install and I hope I do it all right!

Thanks! - Joel
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Old Oct 11, 2004 | 06:32 PM
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uh... don't forget all the ground straps...don't waste your time trying to fit it in with the headers on...don't put the plugs in the heads till it's mounted...dbl check that the batt is disconnected when u wire it up...lay out the wiring harness as it should be, before you finish bolting the motor in. blah blah blah
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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 08:06 AM
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From: Palos Hills, IL USA
Car: 1992 25th Anniversary Z28
Engine: 6.3L - 383
Transmission: 700R4; Vig 3200
So I should take the plugs outta the heads before I throw in the engine....got it. There's the 2 grounds for each head I know of...the grounds on the pass side near the batt. for the starter etc. Got them. I'm gonna have a couple guys holding the headers (unbolted) out to the sides as the engine gets lowered. The battery won't be going in the car for a while....I still need to pick up an Optima in a couple weeks probably....
Thanks for the tips :hail:
Anything else guys?

- Joel
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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 09:58 AM
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From: Philly, PA
When I do engine swaps on these cars I usually don't reattach the ground wires to their original positions (studs on the back of each head, about 3 wires attached to each stud). Wicked difficult to get at them back there and very easy to miss one or have it pop off the stud before you get it captured with the nut. Then SOMETHING electrical will stop working on the car and you'll go bonkers trying to find out why.

I usually extend all those ground wires that go to the back of the engine by a foot or two and find a nice, easily accessible bolt on the intake somewhere to attach them to (throttle cable bracket hold-down bolts work well if it's a carb'ed or TBI engine, TPIs I don't recall where I bolted them on).

Not necessary, but I've found it to be handy. Especially if you plan on future engine removals/installs in the same car. I swap engines quite frequently in my cars becuase I like to try different combos.
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