sinner

i have checked the archive and didnt find what i was lookin for, so lets see what yall think.

i am wondering what weigt of oil is best for my LT1.
i run full synthetic. im doin an oil change soon, snd am curious what people think. i need what will be best for cold weather. what is good in warm weather? whats best overall?

Nixon1

10w30 is an awesome generic oil. I almost always use 10-30.

I run thinner when it gets cold, so oil gets to the top-end faster. I'm running 5w30 full synth right now.

sellmanb

5W-30 in the winter, 10W-30 every time else

sinner

so then 20w-50 is bad? its what a "mechanic" told me to run all summer. i think the 5w 30 sounds good 4 winter ill do that in my oil change

DuronClocker

iTrader: (1)

Eek I ran 20W-50 in my old 156k Plymouth 2.5L to try and hide the horrible knock it had, lol....that's the ONLY reason I'd run 20W-50.

5W-30 is what I'm putting in for the winter this weekend.

ede

i run 5w-30 year round in everything i own except the tractor and lawn mower.

Chris89GTA

iTrader: (2)

I run 10w30 in summer, and I am going to be switching to 5w30 for the winter probably when my next change is up....

Air_Adam

10w30 in the hot, 5w30 in the cold. Unless the engine's getting kinda old, then use 10w30 all year.

safemode

iTrader: (1)

synthetic doesn't change viscosity like conventional oil does. You really shouldn't have to change from 5W30 even in the summer unless you're close to the equator. If you're using conventional oil then yes, i'd change it seasonally.. but not with full synthetic.

sinner

so u think i should stay the same all year?

the motor factory has about 40k on it.

custom88camaro

Just to be clear, I run 10w30 all year long. I just wanted to throw out the reason not to use 20w50. Thicker oil takes
F O R E V E R to drain back to the pan after being pumped to the top. If you run high RPM's a lot you do not want your oil lingering in the top of the engine. If you never really wind it up, sure, go for the thick stuff. Your oil pressure will benefit, but just remember, if you have a tight engine, it is harder for the thick oil to get where it needs to go.

custom88camaro

Oh, I almost forgot. I am a fan of the LUCAS OIL STABILIZER. It "Eliminates dry starts". We all know that most engine wear occurs at startup.........and 7,000 RPM. LOL

sellmanb

that stuff really works then? I always thought it was a gimmick like Slick 50. btw custom88camaro where-about in Oregon are you?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The best thing about Lucas is they sponsor a neat NHRA series. They seem to have a loyal customer base, though. Mostly people who haven't tried a good synthetic from what I've seen.

Just to clarify the statement about synthetics and viscosity: As measured to establish the viscosity rating, a synthetic or petroleum based lube will come out the same - either one has to be within a certain viscosity range at the test temp to be called a 5W or 10W or 20W, whatever-W, and similarly for the 2nd number at the higher test temp to be called a -20, -30, -40, or dash-whatever. The difference between petroleum & synthetic is what happens beyond those ranges, such as how thick it is below the cold test temp or how thin it is above the hot test temp - that's where a good synthetic will shine. And what they have to do to it to get it to meet both requirements. It isn't unusual for the better synthetics to meet both the W number and the dashed number without having to use viscosity index improver additives, or to not need as much of them. Meeting both without the VI improver is generally not possible with a petroleum-based oil. And, the VI improver additive is one of the first things to break down under heat and stress.

Viscosity is only a small part of lubrication, though. There isn't a petroleum based oil out there that will come close to a good synthetic in film strength, and that's were most of your wear protection resides. No additive is going to change that.

Oh, 20W-50 is generally unnecessary and anti-beneficial in street driven vehicles, especially in factory-spec'd engines.

Nixon1

I've never used Lucas's oil additives, since I don't believe in ANY oil additives in the first place...just good synthetic. However, I will SWEAR by their P/S additive and transmission additive. The P/S fluid, while it didn't stop my leak (which is severe), it slowed it DRAMATICALLY and, while it was in there, the steering was SILK.

The trans additive actually allowed the worn out, high mileage automatic in my Mustang to CHIRP SECOND GEAR for about 2 weeks solid before the clutch slip got too severe. But in a worn out transmission, this additive is a MIRACLE. My trans is still working right now and I'm convinced it's in part to the higher line pressure I'm running, and the Lucas being so thick that it's giving additional pressure to the clutches and helping to grip them together.

If your transmission isn't BAD though, you probably won't notice the difference.

Air_Adam

I used Lucas stuff once. My oil pump hydrolocked and broke both driveshaft tangs off because of it.

Nixon1

That Lucas stuff is EXTREMELY thick....I'm assuming that's why that happened to you! We had a customer come in at work with a BRAND NEW Cadillac and he asked us to put in the Lucas additive. But he ADIMANTLY stated for us to let his car idle for like 15 minutes..until it at LEAST turned the cooling fan on once....then add the stuff slowly, then let it run for another 15 minutes. He was sure that doing otherwise might ruin his motor since you might as well be pouring petroleum jelly into it. If it doesn't mix....you're screwed!

88Camaro350

I used that stuff before...never had a problem. And I sell it at work ALL the time and noone has ever came in with a problem because of it.

custom88camaro

I am in Roseburg, (south of Eugene, north of Medford on I-5).

The first time I used the stuff (Lucas) I poured it in first. Stupid, Stupid, Stupid, Stupid. Luckily it was in my S-10, who really cares about it anyway. The thing is , that stuff is just too thick for the oil pump to pick up until it blends with the oil. I had no oil pressure for a few seconds.........or more........ I ended up leaving my truck where it was until the next morning. When I started it up the next morning it was fine.

I could see how it would foul up an oil pump if you don't pour it in last, or while the engine is running on the other 4 quarts of oil.

I like the concept behind the stuff, but if you use it, pour it in last for ***'s sake!!!!!!

88tatpi

That's why in "the old days" the old timers would tell us NOT to put "STP" in a cold engine!

88tatpi

I think more quetions are in order to answer you.
Firstly what kind of driving do you do?
How hard are you on the start-ups? Do you let it warm up before driving? How long? Do you let the motor fully warm-up before going into the higher rev ranges?
Is your driving mostly "stop and go" or long freeway/country roads? How many heat cycles and how far up and down in temp range do you go typically i one day/week?
How frequently do you change oil? How frequently do you drive?
Every day? How many times a week?
Have you logged your oil consumption with different oils?
Do you have a remote oil filter and/or oil cooler? With thermostat?