im sure its impossible, but i figure id ask.....any way you can clearence the block with a die grinder?? im a true do it yourself-er....so anything i can even TRY to do, im doin it......

im not sure how much metal has to be ground out.....but ive done 75 hour port and polish jobs....so im just thinking about all that work.....should be KINDA the same.....

but...i dont have the crank int he block to see if i could do it or not....so chances are.....it HAS to be done at a machine shop

 

die grinder is how most if not all people do it

 

wow, i expected people to go...WHAT...no you cantr...its impossible.....but hey....if you say a die grinder will work, i believe you.....i know a decent amount has to be trimmed out.....but if it can be dine VIA die grinder and acarbide tip......heh that saves me 300 bucks

 

You do have to have the stuff you're going to use though, such as the crank, rods, pistons, etc. You need it to measure how much you have to remove and where.

An old trick is to use a Zip-Tie around .050-.060" thick and gap everything with that.

 

Yeah use a die grinder. I used a dremel and it took FOREVER. Be careful though, if you go too far you could find your way into a water jacket. Just go slow and creep up to the correct clearance. Also check the rod to cam clearance BEFORE you balance the reciprocating assembly. I had to balance mine twice because I had to clear the rods for the cam. I could have bought a set of nice aftermarket rods that were already cleared by the time I was done with my build. Live and learn...

 

Iwould advise you to pour some block filler into the water jackets, through the freeze plug holes and let it harden before you start. That way if you do go to far, its already in there, it can be a pain in the *** to do it afterwards.

 

Mock it up FIRST with all your chosen parts and see where it hits and by how much. Also, you might as well put in the cam and timing chain as well, becuase you could have rod bolt-to-cam lobe interference requiring some material be taken off the rods or the heads of the rod bolts.

If it's only a small touch here and there you don't have much risk of messing it up, even if it's your first time. If you have a serious clearance issue somewhere you might want to take it all down to the shop and confer with your machinist before you proceed.

I have a 383 in one of my cars right now that required NO clearancing anywhere. I literally bolted it all together for the mock-up and it spun free without ever breaking out the grinder!! That is a RARE exception. Most combos require at least a little grinding. Some require a lot.

 

It's good to have an old set of bearings, so you don't mess up the ones that yu're going to use.
It also helps if you have bushed pin bores on the rods.
Begin with the crank and first get that to spin freely, then work your way outward from there.

 

I purchased a stroker-clearanced and balanced rotating assembly from Competition Products and did not have to machine the block at all (year 2000 4BM roller cam block).
As AJ and others said, make sure you have the assembly you are going to use first and if you do not have it yet, I would consider looking at a "stroker-clearenced" assembly. Makes life a lot easier and all it amounted to in my case was minor grinding on the rod caps.

S-D

 

man i would NEVER try to clearence a block without thwe assembly here....thsats like porting and polishing without scribing the gasket tp the heads.....heh......im not stupid lol.

i DID ask if i could do it myself, but yeah, i wouldnt try to do it if i didnt have experiance working with a die grinder......ive ported a few sets of heads in my days...so.....

i found a *budget* 383 sassembly.....hyper pistons....forged i beams....bearings....no vcam....500 shipped.....if anyone can find a better deal...or a assembly thats clearenced....let me know, i plann geting the assembly within the month, no rush.....appreciate it so far

 

Were is that deal? Gotta link by chance?

It's hard to say if that's a good deal without seeing one important thing....... BRAND NAMES!!!

 

Brand names....
And stuff like piston domes, rod length etc.
In a most cases a guy isn't doing himself any favors by jumping on the cheapest kit he can find.
Unless you're building an engine for a car that you're gonna sell in 6mo, or maybe doing a rebuild for someone else who's been a PITA to you... or something like that.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33623

like i said, send me some links of some decent kits, thats just one i saw and looked *ok* for the price.

i will be using my ported and polished 416 heads for awhile until i can affoard somegood ones.

using an old high nickle 4 bolt block. non roller, 2 piece rear main.