Another I'm stumped question.
Another I'm stumped question.
My old distributor was fried and rather than hunting the problem down( I wanted and needed a new distributor anyway) I bought an MSD direct replacement distributor. I stabbed the new distributor and got the wires onto the new cap. I turned the engine over and it started right up. I disconnected the EST and set the timing to 14* and locked the distributor down. Here is the problem. I now have what can best be described as sounding like an exhaust leak on the drivers side. It is RPM related and gets louder when the engine is under load. The engine itself feels less powerful than it was before the old distributor fried. The sound does not sound like it is coming from the valve train. It sounds like it is coming up from the exhaust collector. I am dumping raw fuel out of the tail pipe as well. I rechecked to make sure that all of the wires are in the correct order. They are. I am thinking that I have a dead cylinder on the drivers side. This problem was not there before the old distributor died. Am I thinking correctly? Any other ideas/suggestions?
Robert
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1989 GTA TRANS AM
Was a TPI 305 & t-5 car.
Is now 383 stroker w/ the same T-5
World products Sportsman II heads(64cc fast burns). Lunati pistons@10.5:1 and 452/462/112* camshaft. Eagle crank and 6 inch rods. Ported/polished/port matched stock TPI intake. T-5 on a suicide mission.
[This message has been edited by GTARob (edited May 29, 2001).]
Robert
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1989 GTA TRANS AM
Was a TPI 305 & t-5 car.
Is now 383 stroker w/ the same T-5
World products Sportsman II heads(64cc fast burns). Lunati pistons@10.5:1 and 452/462/112* camshaft. Eagle crank and 6 inch rods. Ported/polished/port matched stock TPI intake. T-5 on a suicide mission.
[This message has been edited by GTARob (edited May 29, 2001).]
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 5,183
Likes: 42
From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
I'm betting you have a wire arcing somewhere...fire it up in the dark (cover the underhood bulb) and look for the light show 
Sometimes you can't look right at the arc, or you won't see it...you need to look just to the side of where the sound is coming from.

Sometimes you can't look right at the arc, or you won't see it...you need to look just to the side of where the sound is coming from.
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,047
Likes: 0
From: The State of Hockey
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
Definately symptoms of an ignition system misfiring by arcing. Check those plug wires from end to end for burns and cuts as well as proper and complete fitment of the boots onto the plugs.
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1987 GTA L98 MD8 GH3
355 '97 Vortec 4-bolt block, TRW(suck) forged pistons 10:1 CR, TFS 23*, LT4 Hot Cam, Ported plenum and intake, SLP Siam Runners, Edelbrock TES, gutted Cat, Flowmaster, Home-made cold air system w/ K+N cone and AFPR, TB bypass, AirFoil, !AIR, !A/C, 2300 stall.
"Stop Lights timed for 35Mph are also timed for 140Mph"
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1987 GTA L98 MD8 GH3
355 '97 Vortec 4-bolt block, TRW(suck) forged pistons 10:1 CR, TFS 23*, LT4 Hot Cam, Ported plenum and intake, SLP Siam Runners, Edelbrock TES, gutted Cat, Flowmaster, Home-made cold air system w/ K+N cone and AFPR, TB bypass, AirFoil, !AIR, !A/C, 2300 stall.
"Stop Lights timed for 35Mph are also timed for 140Mph"
I just fired it up and looked. No arcing that I can see. As for burns and nicks, There are a few in the wires but nothing that should cause any arcing. Just little scorches here and there. The only other thing that I noticed was that one of the Boots(#3) on the distributor is starting to split. The connector is still a tight fit though. I will try replacing the wires and I will check the plugs out tomorrow. Thanks
Robert
Robert
Today I checked the wires with a tester and as far as I can tell there is no break in the wires. I am going to take the car into the exhaust shop tomorrow and see if they can find a leak that I can't. If they don't have any luck I am going to have to take it to a shop. My car kungfu has run its course. I am now STUMPED!! Thanks for your help.
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Pull the plugs on the drivers side and see which is coked in raw fuel if you suspect a dead cylinder. Then trace back from there, bad plug, bad or weak wire, poorly machined cap, you know what to look for. Did you do a spark test @ each cylinder?
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-Jason M. 1991 Camaro Z28
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-Jason M. 1991 Camaro Z28
With 8* the car will not even run. I moved the distributor until the car started and then set it for the best idle I could get. When it was all said and done, it came to 14*. I will double check everything again tommorrow before I throw in the towel. I really don't want to take my car to a shop and say "Here is the 450HP engine I put in my car, I can't fix it." Any other suggestions ? Thanks for the help.
[This message has been edited by GTARob (edited May 31, 2001).]
[This message has been edited by GTARob (edited May 31, 2001).]
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 4,969
Likes: 0
From: USA
Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
Have you checked the valve springs? I've busted a few in my days and it sounds like your car is running like mine was. I was lucky. It's happened twice, on diff cars, but it was the exhaust springs. Thank G-O-D they didn't drop. It wasn't sucking in air to blow it back through the head gasket, intake, or anything like that. But from lack of closing, the piston was sucking in a little back from the headers. It sounded like I threw a rod, man!!! It also caused the header gasket to split from all the heat, which made it louder still.
Just a "maybe". GL
AJ
Just a "maybe". GL
AJ
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