StraightRollin

I put in a 160 Degree thermo in my car, But my gauge still goes up to 220. I have a 89 Firebird Formula, 305. The raditor is new,ive changed the fluid. What could be the problem?? Please help! thanks alot.

mirage2991

220 with the AC on? if so, mine does it too...without AC I manage a 170 driving and a 180 to 200 in traffic....not much you can do, I tryed an Edelbrock pump, didn't do much....

StraightRollin

Mine runs at 220 all the time. No matter what. Its a 160 thermo it shouldent do that.

TRAXION

Transferring to the General Engine board. This has nothing to do with PROM burning.

Tim

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TRAXION's 1990 IROC-Z
Best Time = 12.244 @ 112.51mph (1.778 60' / 7.819@88.32mph in the 1/8)
All Natural. No Force. No Drugs. Stock Bottom End. Stock Body Panels.
Gunning for NA 11's with bigger cam, bigger stall, and bigger exhaust.
-=ICON Motorsports=-
Moderator: PROM board at thirdgen.org

Vader

Is the lower air deflector array in place and undamaged? Are you using at least 50% water in the coolant solution? Does the lower radiator hose have a stiffener inside to prevent collapse at higher RPM? Is there and debris between the radiator and condenser?

Just a few things to check.

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Later,
Vader
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"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader

Enkil

A thermostat's rated opening temperature has nothing to do with how hot the engine will or won't get, but rather, how cool is will never get after the engine's warmed up.

(i.e., the temperature of the coolant can continue to rise unchecked, but the engine can never get blow 160 degrees after it's hit that temperature because as it does, the thermostat closes, and there's no more cool .. umm.. coolant.. hehe going through the engine.)

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89 iroc-z 305 tbi
k&n filtercharger, open element air filter. nuffin' else

Z-83

You might not be getting a correct signal from your coolant temperature sensor. My temp was reading way too high before I replaced the cts.

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'83 Z28
305 4bbl
TH-700R4
3.23 posi (ok, L/S)
no mods... yet

Zepher

iTrader: (1)

If you have a dual fan setup, wire up one of the fans to always stay on.
I have my single fan running all the time and the temp stays at 160-170 all the time (I don't have A/C in the car so I have the A/C / Heater control set to A/C so that the fan will stay on).
If I turn the fan off the engine will get to 220 and then it will go on automatically and the car will stay at 200-220 all the time unless I am on the highway cruising.
Does the same with either a 160* or stock 195* Thermostat.


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Engineboy

No matter what temp thermostat you have, if the fans don't come on sooner, it will still run at 220 cause thats when the fans kick on to stabilize temp.

A cooler stat only works if you can get the fans to come on earlier.

As stated above, you can wire them hot or with a switch, or you can install a cooler fan switch.

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ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
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R.I.P. #3
"He can see air"

El Guapo

Due to the design of the firebird nose, not enough air hits the radiator to really cool the coolant until a fan comes on, and those, as stated above still come on at stock temps. You could try to find a fan switch that comes on at a lower temp.

On my 87 T/A I had the fan connection die on me (rigged) and I can tell you that w/o the fan you will overheat, thats how poorly designed the water cooler is.

Just my thoughts
Clayton

MikeS

Yeah, I agree with those other guys. It won't get any colder than that once it warms up, but you need to make the fan(s) come on sooner.

RGZWS6

It has absolutely nothing to do with the nose. The 3rd gen was designed like that. Its all about the air dam (curb scraper) underneath the nose. If is damaged or missing your car will not run any cooler than 220 because of the lack of air flow and the fan temp switch not allowing it to get over 220 OR BELOW 200 or so.

Wiring your fan to stay on all the time is not the fix either! If that is the only way to keep your car "cool" then something is wrong with the system. And oh yea by the way sooner or later your fan will burn up. It wasn't designed to run constantly. However I'm sure there are some super fans out there holding up just nicely

Did you mount the stat upside down??????

[This message has been edited by RGZWS6 (edited May 30, 2001).]

CAMARO82

I have an engine driven fan. Mine gets hot on the freeway with the A/C on. Runs ok in traffic but still warm. I live in El Paso Texas so I can't expect it to run cool because it is like 100 degrees outside and its only going to get hotter. Try changing your Radiator Cap, If its not holding the pressure then it won't cool right.. Well Laters

MikeInAZ

Thermostat conversion has got to be one of the most misunderstood concepts regarding our cars. First the effect of converting to a 160 will be effected by your climate. Switching to a 160 in Arizona is almost essential if you want to use your A/C while doing so in a cooler climate may make your car spend most of it's time operating in cooler than desired operating temps.

You have a 195 stock stat with fans that don't come on until 234 degrees by design so you are not far off and it's not an emergency. It is too hot for maximum power and maximum engine life, but you need to follow a sequence to cool off your car to the right temp.
1. Check the air dam and as vader says check for obstructions and proper radiator operations.
2. Drop your stat but go with say 170 or 180 to start with.
3. Put in an adjustable fan switch to kick your fans on sooner.
4. If all this doesn't cool off your car consider a dual fan conversion.

Your car has a certain temperature that it is going to reach regardless of what stat you have. Lowering the opening temp of the stat and temp that the fan kicks on keeps the car in the "cooler range" for longer periods of time, but not constantly.

Camaro82....check your air dam. Overheating on the highway and not in traffic usually indicated your air dam is gone or damaged allowing air to flow under your car instead of getting scooped up into the engine bay.