Converting to carb.
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Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 110
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From: Orange Park, FL
Car: 1984 T/A
Engine: L69
Transmission: 700R4
Converting to carb.
My 84' T/A has the ECU controlled Q-Jet carb I would like to ditch and just get a good aluminum intake manifold and a 4bbl carb.
Any suggestions? I was thinking the Edelbrock Torker series with a Performer carb?
Any suggestions? I was thinking the Edelbrock Torker series with a Performer carb?
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,521
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From: Cypress,Tx
Car: 89 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 carbed now
Transmission: World Class T5
Axle/Gears: Peg Leg w/ 3.73's
I would suggest the ZZ4 cam with a 600 cfm edelbrock carb. You dont want the torker intake, its a single plane. Single plane intakes are made for highly modified motors with big cams, heads, and a high stall speed. You always want to look at the power band on an intake and match it with your setup so it makes no sence to have a cam that is best from idle to 4500 and match it with an intake thats powerband is 2500 to 6500 rpms. Good luck.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
The ZZ4 cam is a roller; your motor is not. It will not work without spending $$$$.
I'm going to assume this is a LG4 motor (base model 4-barrel).
Use a ZZ4 intake and a Holley carb. I'd recommend a 6210 which is a 650 CFM spreadbore. If you change the cam at the same time, use a Comp XE256 if it's an auto car with the stock converter; or a XE262 if it's a stick or an auto with a 2400 RPM or higher converter.
If this is the LG4 motor, expect little or no gain of any kind, except oil company profits, unless you also upgrade the exhaust. You will need to change EVERY SINGLE PIECE, all at once, from the heads to the street; to something for some other motor, NOT for the LG4. ANY piece you put on that fits to ANY piece that's already there, will preserve the LG4 bottleneck. I'd suggest getting the headers with Y-pipe, a cat, and cat-back exhaust, for something like a 89 TPI 350.
I'm going to assume this is a LG4 motor (base model 4-barrel).
Use a ZZ4 intake and a Holley carb. I'd recommend a 6210 which is a 650 CFM spreadbore. If you change the cam at the same time, use a Comp XE256 if it's an auto car with the stock converter; or a XE262 if it's a stick or an auto with a 2400 RPM or higher converter.
If this is the LG4 motor, expect little or no gain of any kind, except oil company profits, unless you also upgrade the exhaust. You will need to change EVERY SINGLE PIECE, all at once, from the heads to the street; to something for some other motor, NOT for the LG4. ANY piece you put on that fits to ANY piece that's already there, will preserve the LG4 bottleneck. I'd suggest getting the headers with Y-pipe, a cat, and cat-back exhaust, for something like a 89 TPI 350.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: Orange Park, FL
Car: 1984 T/A
Engine: L69
Transmission: 700R4
Well, the VIN says it's an LG4 but it's not the original motor to the car. The owner is dead so I cant ask him and his son is clueless. His son told me that it had been given a new motor about 5 years ago but he didnt know any details. From the research I have done there is no apparant differences in the LG4 or L69 just by looking at it except for the dual snorkel intake which mine does not have.
Anyway, I was just looking for something a little better than stock untill I get a decent built 350 to swap-in. Thanks for your advice.
Anyway, I was just looking for something a little better than stock untill I get a decent built 350 to swap-in. Thanks for your advice.
Originally posted by RB83L69
The ZZ4 cam is a roller; your motor is not. It will not work without spending $$$$.
I'm going to assume this is a LG4 motor (base model 4-barrel).
Use a ZZ4 intake and a Holley carb. I'd recommend a 6210 which is a 650 CFM spreadbore. If you change the cam at the same time, use a Comp XE256 if it's an auto car with the stock converter; or a XE262 if it's a stick or an auto with a 2400 RPM or higher converter.
If this is the LG4 motor, expect little or no gain of any kind, except oil company profits, unless you also upgrade the exhaust. You will need to change EVERY SINGLE PIECE, all at once, from the heads to the street; to something for some other motor, NOT for the LG4. ANY piece you put on that fits to ANY piece that's already there, will preserve the LG4 bottleneck. I'd suggest getting the headers with Y-pipe, a cat, and cat-back exhaust, for something like a 89 TPI 350.
The ZZ4 cam is a roller; your motor is not. It will not work without spending $$$$.
I'm going to assume this is a LG4 motor (base model 4-barrel).
Use a ZZ4 intake and a Holley carb. I'd recommend a 6210 which is a 650 CFM spreadbore. If you change the cam at the same time, use a Comp XE256 if it's an auto car with the stock converter; or a XE262 if it's a stick or an auto with a 2400 RPM or higher converter.
If this is the LG4 motor, expect little or no gain of any kind, except oil company profits, unless you also upgrade the exhaust. You will need to change EVERY SINGLE PIECE, all at once, from the heads to the street; to something for some other motor, NOT for the LG4. ANY piece you put on that fits to ANY piece that's already there, will preserve the LG4 bottleneck. I'd suggest getting the headers with Y-pipe, a cat, and cat-back exhaust, for something like a 89 TPI 350.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
All of the parts I suggested can be applied to a 350 as well. Especially the exhaust. Putting a 350 in, and retaining the LG4 exhaust, would be about the biggest mistake that could be made. That step (exhaust) should be considered as absolutely mandatory before any other money is spent or bolts are turned. Basically, all else is a waste, as long as the motor is constipated by the drinking straw sized exhaust that's on it. And of course, any exhaust that you put in now and run the 305 through, will hook up just as well to a 350 later.
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
I'll agree that exhaust should be the first upgrade money spent. Until you do, nothing else you change will have the desired effect.
I'll disagree on spending any money on an aftermarket carb. The computer controlled unit you now have (assuming it hasn't been chopped up by a former owner) is more than capable of handling whatever you do to the 305. It will handle all but the most radical 350 as well. The only reasons I can think of to go with any other carb would be if you have a manual transmission, and/or the primary function of the car will be drag racing. In those cases, I'd recommend a double pumper carb (which the 6210 is). If this car is primarily street driven, you can't beat the good ol' CC carb.
As for what engine is in there now, you need to get casting numbers. The block casting # is in front of the bell housing, behind the driver's side head. It isn't easy to see, but it's worth knowing what it is. Pull the valve covers and get the casting #'s off of each head (having the valve cover off will probably make it easier to see the block casting #).
I'll disagree on spending any money on an aftermarket carb. The computer controlled unit you now have (assuming it hasn't been chopped up by a former owner) is more than capable of handling whatever you do to the 305. It will handle all but the most radical 350 as well. The only reasons I can think of to go with any other carb would be if you have a manual transmission, and/or the primary function of the car will be drag racing. In those cases, I'd recommend a double pumper carb (which the 6210 is). If this car is primarily street driven, you can't beat the good ol' CC carb.
As for what engine is in there now, you need to get casting numbers. The block casting # is in front of the bell housing, behind the driver's side head. It isn't easy to see, but it's worth knowing what it is. Pull the valve covers and get the casting #'s off of each head (having the valve cover off will probably make it easier to see the block casting #).
Last edited by five7kid; Dec 1, 2004 at 01:19 PM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: Orange Park, FL
Car: 1984 T/A
Engine: L69
Transmission: 700R4
Ok, so I will start with the exhaust first and work up from there. I've done my share of engine swaps, (Mustangs, Rangers, etc, primaraly Fords, sorry : ) ) and it all to me looks factory, right down to all the emmisions crap, thermac, etc. The only thing I have noticed is the AIR pump had no belt because it was frozen. No biggie, I just pulled it off, there are no emmisions where I live.
Originally posted by five7kid
I'll agree that exhaust should be the first upgrade money spent. Until you do, nothing else you change will have the desired effect.
I'll disagree on spending any money on an aftermarket carb. The computer controlled unit you now have (assuming it hasn't been chopped up by a former owner) is more than capable of handling whatever you do to the 305. It will handle all but the most radical 350 as well. The only reasons I can think of to go with any other carb would be if you have a manual transmission, and/or the primary function of the car will be drag racing. In those cases, I'd recommend a double pumper carb (which the 6210 is). If this car is primarily street driven, you can't beat the good ol' CC carb.
As for what engine is in there now, you need to get casting numbers. The block casting # is in front of the bell housing, behind the driver's side head. It isn't easy to see, but it's worth knowing what it is. Pull the valve covers and get the casting #'s off of each head (having the valve cover off will probably make it easier to see the block casting #).
I'll agree that exhaust should be the first upgrade money spent. Until you do, nothing else you change will have the desired effect.
I'll disagree on spending any money on an aftermarket carb. The computer controlled unit you now have (assuming it hasn't been chopped up by a former owner) is more than capable of handling whatever you do to the 305. It will handle all but the most radical 350 as well. The only reasons I can think of to go with any other carb would be if you have a manual transmission, and/or the primary function of the car will be drag racing. In those cases, I'd recommend a double pumper carb (which the 6210 is). If this car is primarily street driven, you can't beat the good ol' CC carb.
As for what engine is in there now, you need to get casting numbers. The block casting # is in front of the bell housing, behind the driver's side head. It isn't easy to see, but it's worth knowing what it is. Pull the valve covers and get the casting #'s off of each head (having the valve cover off will probably make it easier to see the block casting #).
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