Well, alot of you guys have been helping me out with this project, and I appreciate every bit of it. Anyway, I just figured that it might be nice for some of you guys to actually see what you are helping me work on so here goes......

 

and number 2.....

 

man, that looks serious. when do you think it'll be dropped in?

 

Sorry I don't have any pics of the car up yet. They were all on my old computer, and I got rid of it before I could transfer them. Once I get my 92 style front spoiler, and put it on, then I will probably snap a pic or two. Hmmm, anyone have a 92 style front spoiler they want to sell??

 

Nice looking engine you got there.

That is one BIG air filter. Don't choke your engine with that thing.

 

It's a 14X5 K&N. It looks alot bigger in the pic than it does in person. But that is one of the main reasons why I have been going round and round with hood clearnce issues I am going to remove the 1 inch carb spacer, and then see if the 3 inch Cervini's ram air hood will fit. If not, then the spacer goes back on, and the filter gets shorter to maybe a 14x3.

 

Cliff92Z:Actually, the motor is in the car right now. I just got the car back last month, had to take it out of storage(It's a long story that cost me lots of $$). I am just trying to work out all the wiring and stuff before I get it fired up. Oh yeah, and I have to save up $1200 for the Be Cool radiator module system.

 

Nice thumb

 

Actually that probably a finger.

 

Please explain this. I also have these ports on my intake. I was going to plug all but one of the front ones for my heater. Are these front to rear hoses necessary or not?

 

 

You all know we don't allow "the finger" on the Board...

I'd lose the 5" and keep the spacer. Odds are a 14x3 will feed the engine just fine, while the spacer may or may not help. About the only way to know is to get quantitative data from the dyno or strip.

Nice looking engine, though.

Oh, the rear water ports aren't "necessary". The thought is it keeps the head at a more even temperature from front to back.

 

If you do a search for 4 corner cooling on this site, you will find some info on it. Basically, by running a tube from the front water outlet to the rear you are doing a couple of things....

1. You increase the amount of coolant flow to the back 4 cylinders.

2. This allows them to run cooler and provide a more dense air charge.

3. It also helps to increase the metering signals to the carb for the air/fuel mixture.

4. You reduce the risk of having hot spots from having the coolant sit in one place for too long.

One of the guys I know used to drag race back on the day. They used to drill and tap the intake manifolds for this mod becaue they didn't hve these types of intakes back in the day. The ran it on an engine dyno, and picked up an average of 6-7 HP and 10-12 TQ. Not bad for some stainless steel braided hose and fittings!

 

Really thats awesome, probably only on a max perfromance engine, i wonder what it would do on a milder engine?

 

Well, they did most of thier testing with big blocks, but I would gather that you would still see some gains if you had a 400+HP small block. I am mainly using it for the wow factor, plus I like knowing that I have more coolant flow. If you wanted to really crack down on the cooling issues that the small blocks have, you would have to drill a hole between exhaust ports 3&5 and 4&6, and then plumb some stainless steel braided hose from the cylinder head water jacket and run it to a water outlet. This is because the exhaust ports are right next to each other, and the radiant heat from both cylnders is greatest in that area. The majority of heat related engine failures ie. burnt valves, blown head gaskets, etc. comes from these two adjacent cylinders.

 

I put a setup like this on my 355. I had to drill and tap the intake. I also had to buy the aluminum spacer (that goes between the water neck and intake) with two 3/8ths NPT tapped holes for the lines to hook up to. I then modified the water neck so that I could put the thermostat on the top of the spacer, and a restricter under it, in hopes of slowing the water flow from the front of the heads, and getting more from back to equalize the flow. Seemed to work, I get a fair amount of water from the back and the temp leveled off at around 180* while idling.

I did this to try to keep the engine temps equal from front to rear to reduce temp rise in the back cylinders which in theory may (I said may) have caused pinging with the higher compression.

I don't know if it will really work, or if it was needed, I just did it for insurance on those hot summer days.

Man I can't wait! Its been too friggen long and it aint done yet!!

 

I assume that you are using something like this then........

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...t?prrfnbr=4754

If so, then that is actually used to plumb your cylinder heads. If you read one of my previous posts on this thread, in order for that to be most effective, you have to drill and tap the heads in between the exhaust ports on cylinders 3&5 and 4&6. Then you hook those lines up to the jegs piece. It's a good theory, but I don't want to drill and tap my $1000 aluminum heads only to find out that I messed up.

 

That is exactly the kit I used, and yes it was listed for the cylinder heads but, it was just what I was looking for in the 4 corner setup I wanted to run.

I only used the aluminum spacer. I bought some Mr. Gasket restricters to put between the spacer and the manifold (used the 3/8ths), and then had to machine the water neck so that it would hold the thermostat (160 hi flow Mr Gasket) in place on top of the spacer because the spacer didn't have a depression in it for the thermostat to set in. It turned out nice and like I stated before, the engine never exceded 180-190* durring the 2500+ RPM break-in. I thought I was having an over heating problem at first but that was just the temp sending unit was the wrong one for my car. I got an RTD from work and used that to verify temps.

I think it will work out very nicely